Instant Ocean Reef Crystals

NanaReefer · Mar 15, 2015

Been using RC for 6yrs. Have never used a heater. Mix over night, then do WC.

Spcoley1 · Mar 15, 2015

Thanks for the input, everyone. I guess my next question is, can I run my Cal at 500 ppm??? So far, it seems everything is doing ok in the tank, and I've been using Reef Crystals for 2 months now.

racin2438 · Mar 15, 2015

Randy Holmes-Farley said:
There's no reason to have to heat first, except the heater itself may get some precipitation. Calcium carbonate is more soluble in cold water than heated.

With all due respect, I talked to 3 different rep ' s at I/O and they all said the same. I have now mixed 2 boxes of 200g batches of mix using the new method and there is no trace elements left in mix buckets, I mix another batch doing it the old method and there is a lot of residue left in buckets. I again mix the I/O directed method and the mix is extremely clear and NO residue.

my fish guy who has his service business also noticed the difference and he now mixes the I/O recommend way.

your guys are more than welcome to call I/O customer support line and ask.

why it leaves residue in cold water first IDK, but it seems to work every time now.

I have no

NanaReefer · Mar 15, 2015

My RO/DI is stored in a 32g brute. Covered, no heater, room temp. I take 5g from that add to my 5g bucket, add my 2 1/2 +\- cups of RC, stir vigorously for couple minutes, drop power head in and let mix overnight. Been doing it this way for almost 6yrs. No residue, nice and clear.
What makes yours and mine different racin2438?

GreatWhiteTang · Mar 15, 2015

Hmm interesting.. My brand . I mix in bucket stir with hand.. Re stir 10 min later.. And it's clear with nothing in bucket no heat room temp . My 2c

racin2438 · Mar 15, 2015

NanaReefer said:
My RO/DI is stored in a 32g brute. Covered, no heater, room temp. I take 5g from that add to my 5g bucket, add my 2 1/2 +\- cups of RC, stir vigorously for couple minutes, drop power head in and let mix overnight. Been doing it this way for almost 6yrs. No residue, nice and clear.
What makes yours and mine different @racin2438?

I have no idea, I have used about 6 boxes now in total b4 and after the method change. My Rodi tds, is at about 2 maybe 3.

I really don't know why this happend, but since changing the mix method as directed by I/O it no longer leaves residue.

I am definitely not a chemist and totally respect Mr. RANDY HOLMES-FARLEY as he is a reef icon to many including myself . I was hoping it anyone could helps us understand this ..he would.

I hope he can still she'd some light on his fir us all.

Randy Holmes-Farley · Mar 16, 2015

racin2438 said:
With all due respect, I talked to 3 different rep ' s at I/O and they all said the same. I have now mixed 2 boxes of 200g batches of mix using the new method and there is no trace elements left in mix buckets, I mix another batch doing it the old method and there is a lot of residue left in buckets. I again mix the I/O directed method and the mix is extremely clear and NO residue.

my fish guy who has his service business also noticed the difference and he now mixes the I/O recommend way.

your guys are more than welcome to call I/O customer support line and ask.

why it leaves residue in cold water first IDK, but it seems to work every time now.

I have no

Great. I'm just stating a known scientific fact that calcium carbonate is more soluble in cold water. That doesn't say you must mix your water that way.

Personally, I expect your result relates to adding the salt slowly to the water, not to the temperature. That is a good idea as it reduces locally high salinity which leads to precipitation. Also, always add salt to water to prevent local hyper salinity, and the faster the stirring the better.

I'd also caution that companies frequently do not fully understand their own products.

racin2438 · Mar 16, 2015

Randy Holmes-Farley, I could not agree with you more on their own product knowledge. They wet to make sure and push their products. .

I don't have the issue of Cal, like the OP, did my issues was the high ALK. With the old method I was doing.

I was really hoping you could help us all on this. I switched to IO RC, due to costs, I was using Tropic Marin before.

I really appreciate all you do for us here on R2R.....

Nano sapiens · Mar 16, 2015

My experience with RC mirrors what's been noted here. For my first ever batch, I added salt quickly to the water and noted a 'brown sludge' on the bucket's water surface, bottom and sides. Second time around I mixed in the salt very slowly while vigorously stirring the water and had very little sludge. The temperature each time was 'cool' at around 60-65 degrees.

However, I have never heard of Alk readings as low as 8.4 with either IO or RC. I typically see around 10.5-11 when using a 50/50% IO/RC blend.

glb · Mar 16, 2015

I use RC and can never get it all to dissolve. I'm going to try the power head and pouring slowly and see what happens.

Randy Holmes-Farley · Mar 16, 2015

racin2438 said:
@Randy Holmes-Farley, I could not agree with you more on their own product knowledge. They wet to make sure and push their products. .

I don't have the issue of Cal, like the OP, did my issues was the high ALK. With the old method I was doing.

I was really hoping you could help us all on this. I switched to IO RC, due to costs, I was using Tropic Marin before.

I really appreciate all you do for us here on R2R.....

Thanks.

Is there an issue remaining that you'd like a comment on?

Spcoley1 · Mar 17, 2015

Is 500 ppm for Cal to high?

Randy Holmes-Farley · Mar 17, 2015

Spcoley1 said:
Is 500 ppm for Cal to high?

No, that's fine. It is above natural levels, but lower than many salt mixes.

This has more:

https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/re...-coral-reef-aquarium-randy-holmes-farley.html

from it:

Calcium

Many corals use calcium to form their skeletons, which are composed primarily of calcium carbonate. The corals get most of the calcium for this process from the surrounding water. Consequently, calcium often becomes depleted in aquaria housing rapidly growing corals, calcareous red algae (coralline algae), Tridacnids (clams) and Halimeda (a macroalgae containing calcium carbonate). As the calcium level drops below 360 ppm, it becomes progressively more difficult for these organisms to collect enough calcium, thus stunting their growth.

Maintaining the calcium level is one of the most important aspects of coral reef aquarium husbandry. Most reef aquarists try to maintain approximately natural levels of calcium in their aquaria (~420 ppm). It does not appear that boosting the calcium concentration above natural levels enhances calcification (i.e., skeletal growth) in most corals.

For these reasons, I suggest that aquarists maintain a calcium level between about 380 and 450 ppm, although higher is generally not a problem until it gets so high that calcium carbonate precipitation becomes problematic. Aquarists with a very light demand may be able to maintain calcium with water changes, especially since some salt mixes have excessive calcium in them. But most established aquaria with growing hard corals and coralline algae will require some calcium supplementation, and in some cases, it might be needed every day.

I usually suggest using a balanced calcium and alkalinity additive system for routine maintenance. The most popular of these balanced methods include limewater (kalkwasser), calcium carbonate/carbon dioxide reactors, and the two-part or three-part additive systems for calcium and alkalinity. If calcium is depleted and needs to be raised significantly, however, such balanced methods are not a good choice since they will raise alkalinity too much. In that case, adding calcium chloride is a good method for raising calcium in a one-time correction.

fredro · Mar 17, 2015

GreatWhiteTang said:
Hmm interesting.. My brand . I mix in bucket stir with hand.. Re stir 10 min later.. And it's clear with nothing in bucket no heat room temp . My 2c

I also mix the same way. RODI water in 5gal bucket. Mix in salt while stirring my hand. Remix a few times a few minutes later. No residue, crystal clear and no extreme levels in either direction. Pour slowly into overflow so the temp stabilizes slowly in the sump and it's good to go.

swseipel · Mar 17, 2015

my Alkalinity starts normal then drops by the next day

I use a Rubbermaid 46 gallon container
Add ro/did water
Then add salt
Test
Salinity 1.025
Alkalinity 9.5
Calcium 420

I recirc the water and heat it up to 78 degrees

The next day it test
Salinity 1.025
Alkalinity 7.5
Calcium 360

Any ideas why? Randy Holmes
Thanks

Randy Holmes-Farley · Mar 18, 2015

Those changes must at least in part be testing error, assuming it was fully mixed.
Most people get much higher alkalinity, but even if you had significant precipitation of calcium carbonate (which most people get some), for the calcium to drop 60 ppm, the alkalinity would need to drop by 8.4 dKH or so.. Since it didn't, I'd speculate that the calcium drop between days was not that high.

Was the water clear and fully settled both times?

lyrical · Mar 18, 2015

Interesting info. Thanks for sharing.

Spcoley1 · Mar 18, 2015

Thank you. Some very useful information.

FishRForMe · Jan 26, 2016

What temperature should your water be when you put your salt in? What temp. do you use to make your RODI water?

redfishbluefish · Jan 26, 2016

First off, do not play with temperature with your RO/DI unit. The temperature is whatever the ambient temperature is of the raw water. Do not try to add hot water to raise the temperature.

As far as mixing saltwater, you are better off mixing with unheated water. It might be counter intuitive, but solubility is better at cooler temperatures. Once you are ready to add the new water to your tank is when you heat it up to match tank temp.