Instant ocean residue in tank

I've been using reef crystals for 12 years now, however the next time I buy, I'm planning on just regular IO because I do not want the elevated levels in RC as I dose everything myself. As I don't do scheduled water changes, that could be quite awhile. In the end, I decide what the profile of my water looks like.

My containers get the brown stuff in them from mixing, but I never understand why it upsets people. It's at the bottom of my container, not in the water itself. I'm not finding the stuff in my DT after using it or anything.

And the film on the surface, I'm not sure. That will happen anyway if there is no surface area, I never attributed that to the salt, but a sign that the surface was being skimmed poorly and/or not agitated enough.
 
I use Triton every 6 months.
I used Triton once after 2+ years in my old 120. Everything looked good.
I use DSR EZ trace daily as it keeps mag and K levels in check. It has a few other elements too.
I did zero WC for the first 18 months and planned on staying the corse but I did a 10% WC just because and the tank just looked better.
 
I've been using reef crystals for 12 years now, however the next time I buy, I'm planning on just regular IO because I do not want the elevated levels in RC as I dose everything myself. As I don't do scheduled water changes, that could be quite awhile. In the end, I decide what the profile of my water looks like.

My containers get the brown stuff in them from mixing, but I never understand why it upsets people. It's at the bottom of my container, not in the water itself. I'm not finding the stuff in my DT after using it or anything.

And the film on the surface, I'm not sure. That will happen anyway if there is no surface area, I never attributed that to the salt, but a sign that the surface was being skimmed poorly and/or not agitated enough.

Pardon me for reactivating an old thread but this is something I'm experiencing and it's been tough finding a definite answer/solution.

My Brute container is covered with the brown deposit as well. I use HW Marinemix. That this could possibly be bacterial makes sense to me. I'm wondering how a bag of carbon can prevent it. I'll give it a shot though.

My water quality is stable and there's no evidence of this gunk in the tank. However I am concerned that the lines for my AWC will get coated with it and cause an imbalance between the water being added to the tank and what's being removed.
 
Pardon me for reactivating an old thread but this is something I'm experiencing and it's been tough finding a definite answer/solution.

My Brute container is covered with the brown deposit as well. I use HW Marinemix. That this could possibly be bacterial makes sense to me. I'm wondering how a bag of carbon can prevent it. I'll give it a shot though.

My water quality is stable and there's no evidence of this gunk in the tank. However I am concerned that the lines for my AWC will get coated with it and cause an imbalance between the water being added to the tank and what's being removed.

Deposits in new salt water can contain calcium carbonate (IO and other high alk salt mixes do this) and may contain bacteria and organics if there is organic matter in the salt mix (such as in Reef Crystals).

That said, I see no reason to worry too much about preventing their formation. Just try to ingore it. lol

What is that Precipitate in My Reef Aquarium? by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com

The residue on the bottom of the plastic trash can that I use to mix Instant Ocean. I rarely clean it out. The solid is most likely calcium carbonate.

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Solid Residues Remaining After Preparing Artificial Seawater
Most salt mixes leave behind a solid residue when dissolved, although the extent to which this occurs varies from brand to brand. I use Instant Ocean and rarely clean out the 44-gallon trashcan that I mix it in, so a significant residue builds up over time (Figure 1). In preparation for this article I removed some of this solid material, and found that it could be almost completely dissolved in hydrochloric acid with lots of bubbling. This demonstrates that these solids were probably calcium carbonate (CaCO3), perhaps also containing magnesium. Pure magnesium carbonate is undersaturated in seawater (which is detailed in later sections of this article) 1 and should dissolve in marine systems, so it isn't likely to be the precipitated material, although there may be significant magnesium in the calcium carbonate.

Based on the fact that the material exists as sheets that clearly did not arrive in the mix (as opposed to a fine powder which might have), I conclude that at least a significant fraction of this residue formed in the barrel. I cannot, however, rule out the possibility that some solid calcium or magnesium carbonate may have existed in the salt mix and was cemented together by additional precipitation of calcium carbonate during dissolution or storage.

When salt mixes are dissolved, there exist local regions where the salt concentration is very high. In those local regions, the calcium and alkalinity must also be very high. In fact, as seawater is concentrated by evaporation, there is a well-established series of minerals that precipitate as the salinity increases. In this series, calcium and magnesium carbonate are the first to precipitate, appearing at a specific gravity of about 1.140, which is about a 50% solution of salt in water.1 Such conditions may well exist on the bottom of a saltwater reservoir as the salt is dissolving.

With some mixes (but not the Instant Ocean that I use), the initial pH on dissolution may be very high (pH 8.5-9 +). As shown in detail later in this article, pH can play a dominant role in determining the rate of calcium carbonate precipitation, and such a high pH would make it more likely to precipitate.

It has been suggested by some aquarists that some salt mixes may contain anti-caking agents, such as clays. I do not know if this is true, but if it is, they may form part of the residue that is left behind after dissolution.

In order to minimize the formation of insoluble carbonate salts when mixing, the following suggestions may be helpful:

1. Add the salt to a full batch of water, rather than adding water slowly to a large batch of salt. The latter allows a greater time at much higher than natural seawater salinity, which may tend to precipitate calcium and magnesium salts.

2. Stir the mixture vigorously as it is being dissolved.

3. If using a mix with a high initial pH, aerate the mixture as well as stirring it. The aeration will reduce the pH.
 
I have been using reef crystals for a couple of years and every batch leaves the brown/orange film inside my mixing buckets. Never had it coat the tank, but the water is always thoroughly mixed before adding. Occasionally I wipe the buckets out - not had any issues yet
 
I have been using the purple Instant Ocean for 15 years. Other than the brown residue in my mixing barrel I've never had a problem. I have tried other brands but the instant Ocean has been the most cost effective.
 
I use Instant Ocean and it's always been dirty. I would even have to take paper towels and wipe the surface when mixing. I got an Aquaclear power head and its quick filter. The white filter is new, and the one on the right is after mixing about 150 gallons. It's made a huge difference keeping the mixing container clean.
Filter.jpg
 
Yes, I have been using IO most of the 25+ years that I have been reefing. I did use IO reef crystals for a short time but switched back to the regular IO (purple box) so I could control the calcium, alkalinity and magnesium better. My tank is a softie/ macroalgae dominant display so it does not need high amounts of those elements. Also IO is what most of the big public aquariums use because of it's reliability.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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