Intelligent water movement...

Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Total: 0, Members: 0, Guests: 0)

uniquecorals

UniqueCorals
View Badges
Joined
Nov 23, 2006
Messages
13,377
Reaction score
11,088
Location
Los Angeles
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
When you’re keeping reef systems and growing coral, it’s really amazing how you became, out of necessity, really, somewhat of an “expert†on some pretty arcane stuff, right? More so than in almost any other hobby, if you ask me. I mean, how many friends of yours who collect baseball cards understand the concept of alkalinity? I’ll be that not too many of your scrapbooking pals have a clue about acclimating corals to a new tank, and I’d practically guarantee that most of the people in your yoga class have no clue about how a sump should be plumbed. Okay, I could go on and on, but you get the idea.

I was talking to a customer the other day about his reef system that he was building, and the elaborate and highly sophisticated scheme he was concocting for water movement. Most of what he was talking about was so complicated that it kind of slid right over my head. I couldn’t help but think that he was taking a rather simple task and, in that reefer sort of way, approaching it from this strange angle and making it…well, a complicated mess! It made me reflect on our approach to water movement, and why we go to such lengths to execute crazy schemes for our reefs.

PL_pipe_header.jpg

If there is a way to make it complicated, reefers are all over it!

Of of the “core†concepts of reef keeping (I consider water chemistry, feeding, lighting, compatibility, and water movement “coreâ€), seemingly the most forgotten one is water movement. I mean, we’ve relegated it to an afterthought, a footnote in coral descriptions (“likes a lot of flow†or “lower flowâ€), leaving us to establish our own “you know what I mean…†concept of what appropriate whiter movement is for corals. And it shouldn’t be that way, really. It’s pretty darned important, IMHO.


What does water movement actually do for corals? Well, it helps move food and nutrients to the corals themselves, while removing waste products, detritus, and gasses away from the corals. It also serves as a mechanism to disperse gametes and reproductive chemical compounds into the water column to foster spawning. Water movement also speeds away allopathic compounds (“chemical warfare†substances) from corals, creating a healthier environment in captive systems. Last, but not least, water movement helps support new coral growth by stimulating new branches or polyps.

It’s hard to generalize about what corals like what type of water movement, because there are a myriad of growth forms in each genus. Even the genus Acropora, the poster child for “strong water movementâ€, has encrusting, massive, branching, and other forms, all of which have adapted to different water movement over the eons.

hero-4899.jpg

"I'm an Acro!"


UC3inch-bali-mari-blue-edge-efflo-68.jpg

"So am I, fool..."

When you see our descriptions for coral, we make a general statement about what kind of water movement they like (high flow, moderate, low), but the reality is that every coral needs water movement around it. We have found that, categorically, some species prefer greater movement than others. Torch corals, for example, or Scolymia, tend to open up better in areas of our systems where they are not close to the flow source (ie; after some of the energy has dispersed).

We tend to pack our reef tanks to the gills (sorry, couldn’t resist!), which creates artificial impediments to flow. Over time, coral growth gets so massive that flow is restricted, slowly causing die off of many species…A direct result of our “more is more†philosophy. How about keeping less colonies in our systems? Keeping fewer but larger corals will help free up this space, too, won’t it? Woah…aquascaping again!


Leonardos-Lagoon.jpg

"Leonardo's Lagoon" confidently proves that "less is more."


I believe we can dispel the myth that “turnover rate†is the only measure of water flow. You know, the archaic concept of “20 times the aquarium capacity per hour†as a relevant measure of water movement. Or the “random, chaotic flow†moniker. Really, it’s about flow speed, and lack of resistance, right? Although it’s challenging to mimic the flow characteristics found in the ocean, it’s not hard to create powerful flow in aquariums. It IS hard to do it in a way that doesn’t blast the tissues off of corals or create more problems for them, however! We have amazing pump technology that simply didn’t exist a decade ago, to really help do the job smarter.

Think about how we create flow in our reef aquariums…Or, more properly, how we direct flow…Perhaps near the surface, where there are less obstructions (ie; your rockwork).If there is nothing in the way, water circulates at higher rate of speed, and if the flow comes from one side, what happens to water on the other side? It sort of sinks down when it “accumulates†off the opposite wall of the aquarium, right? And the water at the opposite end sort of follows the flow and rises up to replace the water displaced on the other side, right?

Raceway shot by Michelle.jpg

You'd be surprised just how much you can do with less than you think...if you do it intelligently.

That’s called “mass water movementâ€, and it’s the key to amazing water movement for a reef…or a coral propagation system. What’s the point of having 16 different powerbeads and outlets pointing in every which way when you can create better mass water movement with relatively little effort or plumbing? Having one or two diagonal to each other in your reef could, in theory, move a huge mass quantity of water, with minimal energy.

When you create water movement that is beneficial to your corals, they will reward you with faster growth, faster healing after fragging, and better overall health. Simple as that.

Seem to good to be true? It’ isn’t. Trust me.

Do the research. It’s out there for the taking.

And Stay Wet…

Scott Fellman
Unique Corals


 
Since we are discussing flow, what would you recommend? Complex closed loop that punches holes like swiss cheese? Lots of vortech pumps? seaswirls? there is so much talk of flow, what flow is best, but no body I can find will sit down and lay out a baseline for what flow is good and what flow is not so good. Researching that online is like discussing Ford, Chevy Or Dodge at a redneck bar,
On another note, for the retailers, High, medium, low flow seem more like placeholders in coral descriptions. It would be nice to see some data on the descriptions we find online (flow rates/velocity corals are currently recieving, PAR that corals are recieving in the tank, Nitrate, Phosphate levels, ect) When I worked in the fish store, I would check par and flow rates on the corals that were growing great and try to replicate that in my home tank for ideal placement. the ones I had data for did great, the ones I didnt, not so well (lost 2 corals).
 
Last edited:
Good points and questions. I'd do a google search on "gyre flow." Lots of good information on how to apply it. Basically can do it with two pumps in one tank, properly placed. Easy stuff if you understand the concept behind it. I do love the idea of providing PAR information and phosphate and nitrate readings, but I have reservations. I guess the worry I have is that I don't like posting set numbers, as I hate reefers thinking "I have to keep the coral at 300 par or it won't survive." (You'd be surprised by how many reefers think this way..). I agree that "high, medium, etc. are just a bit annoying...). On the whole, however, I think your idea is pretty cool, and if we present the information properly, it could be nice...

-Scott
 
The new issue of coral magazine has an interview with Jake Adams on the subject. A good read.
 
It would be nice to see a little blurb listed with the coral something like in our setup, the corals are kept at 54-72 PAR with a nitrate around 10 ppm, and phosphate around 0.50 ppm, flow around 550gpm or so, just kind of a baseline, not a hard figure but more of a this is what I do, and you see my pic. It could help some customers better care for their corals, and be more successful. I have yet to see any online vendor say this coral does best in medium light, we keep it at around 150 PAR. In the fish store I worked at I would add that bit of info (since the local club had 5 PAR meters available for loan to anyone in the club) people who knew their tank map could put it in a place and it was off and running right away, and I think it made light acclimation, water acclimation, and general adaptation to home displays much better.
 
Yet another GREAT thread topic Scott, and am a big fan of the 'Gyre' approach to water flow. I have primarily used it on all my systems over the past 25 years or so and currently have one configured in a counter clock-wise gyre with slow front roll. This provides excellent laminar flow and directs most all detritus towards the overflows even with my 'Stuffed to the Gills' Mixed reef. My friend Duanes has his 210g setup using an alternating gyre clock-wise x counter clock-wise and is in my future plans for next system setup. Using 4 high-flow PH's (2 vs 2 opposing directions) and a electronic ball-valve with outlet in either direction as well on Return to have a gyre run in both directions for 6 hours each just like the Tide.


Cheers, Todd
 
We as a community are guilty of "too much" or "too little" flow. I am the worlds worst at constantly playing with the intensities of my Powerheads! Great write up Scott.
 
Thanks for the "kudos" Todd and great write up once again Scott. The last time I had my 210 set up I had loc line nozzels everywhere with supplemental powerheads to help out for a total of 20,000GPH in a 210 reef still feeling like (knowing) my corals needed more flow. Extremely inefficient. Now, I use a reversible gyre exactly like Scott described and only need about 5000GPH at one time and my corals are growing like weeds. My corals can grow very dense before I start needing to increase the flow.
 
Last edited:
every morning I check for a new thread topic from Scott, and have never once been disappointed. this time is no different..awesome topic! Im currently running two mp10s on opposite sides of my 40b. one is running on short pulse/wave mode creating a roughly 3/4-1" swell while the other pump is running on reef crest mode at around 50%. will be interesting to see how my new sps frags respond to it
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top