Is a proper canister filter really more work?

[anthonygf]

You stated you have a FX4. I owned FX5 and FX6 which is basically a larger version of the FX4. No way you can tell me cleaning the FX4 is easy. From the media basket to the sponges on the side. The accumulation of detritus on the bottom of the canister. The hassle of carrying the media basket or the canister filter itself to the sink. Where with the filter sock you just have to take it out and place in a new filter sock. Throw the old one in the washer.

Lets not forget the seals fail and you have your entire aquarium on your living room floor. I know that has happened to many people before.

That is the reason I have a baking pan under the canister on my fresh tank with a water leak alarm in the pan. I had my fare share of canisters leaking.

 

[Sleepingtiger]

Takes about 10 minutes to open and clean, not sure why people say it's soooooooooo hard

I am sorry, it doesn't take 10 minutes to clean a fluval FX4/FX5/FX6.

I had 3 fx5/fx6 in my 300g freshwater with cichlids. Once a month I would have to take one of the canister to the shower and empty its contents out. Tons of detritus have build up. I would sit there for at least 20-30 minutes cleaning the sponges. then cleaning the canister. cleaning the media section as it is also filled with detritus. Replace any old media bags. Reassemble the canister. Be careful not to over tighten the screws or they crack and break.

After a year of that crap, I went and bought air stones and sponge filters. Works just as well and I don't have to mess with canisters.

 

[Sleepingtiger]

Here is the deal

It bugs me that people can be so quick to disregard a canister, if that's what someone chooses to use.
People need to get over themselves and their high horse they rode in on.
There's obvious and not so obvious reasons to use a canister, and like @simplicity stated they don't want to drill out the aquarium. Therefore the canister is a good idea to solve that solution.

Canister filter, HOB filter, sumps, sponge filters... they all work. Nobody is saying that canister filter wont work. I had a reef tank when a skimmer was basically an airstone. That worked as well.

The point is the drawbacks, the issues, the time consuming maintenance task required to keep up with these equipment. We try to mitigate all these things so we can enjoy our aquarium more. As you get into more serious corals and fish, the task increases and the enjoyment time decreases. We have redundancy after redundancy to avoid these issues.

I had a heater get stuck in the ON position and cooked my entire tank. I had my overflow tube get clogged by a suction cup causing my tank to overflow as the freshly refilled ATO kept dumping water into the sump. I seen a FX5 with a blown seal and half the tank onto a carpet floor. Even something as simple as a sponge filter airline hose siphon water out of the tank as the power went out.

We avoid these issues by installing heater controller or two heater controllers and setting a higher range for the second controller. We now have dual return pipes incase one gets clogged. We replace o-rings on canister filters before they go bad.

Nobody is saying a canister filter doesn't work or wont grow coral. I am just saying its more difficult and less attractive.
In my sump, I have about 50lbs of live rock, skimmer, Kalk stirrer, 3 part dosing, ATO, heater, fan, Nitrate brick, ground probe, auto feeder.

Now without a sump, I would have to find a way to store the additional live rock and keep its critter safe from being eaten by fish. Pump my Kalk solution into the DT or add kalk to my ato (which then has other issues). I will have lines and tubing everywhere on my main display where it would be visible. I am a neat freak and those tubing and wires would drive me nuts.

On my 750xxl, I have exactly 8 wires visible (all on the outside). The four MP40 and the 4 radion wires. No tubing. Very clean look

 

[simplicity]

Still haven't heard back from Waterbox - in their automated response email they said they're in Florida and so the hurricane probably affected them. Hopefully their offices/warehouse weren't impacted.

 

[Sleeping Giant]

I am sorry, it doesn't take 10 minutes to clean a fluval FX4/FX5/FX6.

I had 3 fx5/fx6 in my 300g freshwater with cichlids. Once a month I would have to take one of the canister to the shower and empty its contents out. Tons of detritus have build up. I would sit there for at least 20-30 minutes cleaning the sponges. then cleaning the canister. cleaning the media section as it is also filled with detritus. Replace any old media bags. Reassemble the canister. Be careful not to over tighten the screws or they crack and break.

After a year of that crap, I went and bought air stones and sponge filters. Works just as well and I don't have to mess with canisters.

 

[Sleeping Giant]

Here is the deal


Canister filter, HOB filter, sumps, sponge filters... they all work. Nobody is saying that canister filter wont work. I had a reef tank when a skimmer was basically an airstone. That worked as well.

The point is the drawbacks, the issues, the time consuming maintenance task required to keep up with these equipment. We try to mitigate all these things so we can enjoy our aquarium more. As you get into more serious corals and fish, the task increases and the enjoyment time decreases. We have redundancy after redundancy to avoid these issues.

I had a heater get stuck in the ON position and cooked my entire tank. I had my overflow tube get clogged by a suction cup causing my tank to overflow as the freshly refilled ATO kept dumping water into the sump. I seen a FX5 with a blown seal and half the tank onto a carpet floor. Even something as simple as a sponge filter airline hose siphon water out of the tank as the power went out.

We avoid these issues by installing heater controller or two heater controllers and setting a higher range for the second controller. We now have dual return pipes incase one gets clogged. We replace o-rings on canister filters before they go bad.

Nobody is saying a canister filter doesn't work or wont grow coral. I am just saying its more difficult and less attractive.
In my sump, I have about 50lbs of live rock, skimmer, Kalk stirrer, 3 part dosing, ATO, heater, fan, Nitrate brick, ground probe, auto feeder.

Now without a sump, I would have to find a way to store the additional live rock and keep its critter safe from being eaten by fish. Pump my Kalk solution into the DT or add kalk to my ato (which then has other issues). I will have lines and tubing everywhere on my main display where it would be visible. I am a neat freak and those tubing and wires would drive me nuts.

On my 750xxl, I have exactly 8 wires visible (all on the outside). The four MP40 and the 4 radion wires. No tubing. Very clean look

 

[Sleepingtiger]

That is the reason I have a baking pan under the canister on my fresh tank with a water leak alarm in the pan. I had my fare share of canisters leaking.

What you had a small leak. What I am talking about is a failure of the o-ring and water was gushing out of the canister as the pump kept pumping water from the tank out until the intake sucked in air.

You will need a tub for that, might as well have a sump if that is the case.

 

[Sleepingtiger]

So you agree your 10 minutes was a bit understated.

I am just trying to help the guy choose the best filter for his situation... not trying to attack anyone.

 

[Sleeping Giant]

So you agree your 10 minutes was a bit understated.

I am just trying to help the guy choose the best filter for his situation... not trying to attack anyone.

OMG 10 min, Half hour does it really matter ??? Didn't time myself, but I'm sure I'm not too far off. I'm done with this thread, do what you want, how you want....no skin off my teeth.

I love my canister filter and don't see why people need to be so opposed to someone using it in reefing. Limiting someones ability to join the hobby and community is NOT in the best interest of the hobby or THIS community.

 

[jft]

You stated you have a FX4. I owned FX5 and FX6 which is basically a larger version of the FX4. No way you can tell me cleaning the FX4 is easy. From the media basket to the sponges on the side. The accumulation of detritus on the bottom of the canister. The hassle of carrying the media basket or the canister filter itself to the sink. Where with the filter sock you just have to take it out and place in a new filter sock. Throw the old one in the washer.

Lets not forget the seals fail and you have your entire aquarium on your living room floor. I know that has happened to many people before.

YEah BUT I had TWO name brand sumps after testing leak within 2 years so either way u are screwed.

 

[Sleepingtiger]

OMG 10 min, Half hour does it really matter ??? Didn't time myself, but I'm sure I'm not too far off. I'm done with this thread, do what you want, how you want....no skin off my teeth.

I love my canister filter and don't see why people need to be so opposed to someone using it in reefing. Limiting someones ability to join the hobby and community is NOT in the best interest of the hobby or THIS community.

I don't understand why you are getting upset. This is just a discussion. Nothing more
Not trying to oppose canister filter. Just presenting the best data for the OP.

For me, 30 minutes a month was huge. I had two kids, 2 and 4 at that time. I didn't even get time to enjoy viewing the fish much less dedicate 30 minutes. I don't know the OP situation. Just presenting accurate data for the OP to make his/her own decision.

 

[Sleepingtiger]

YEah BUT I had TWO name brand sumps after testing leak within 2 years so either way u are screwed.

that seems like a equipment failure due to poor craftsmanship rather than old worn out O-rings, but i get your point. Also, you got some really shotty luck

 

[jft]

that seems like a equipment failure due to poor craftsmanship rather than old worn out O-rings, but i get your point. Also, you got some really shotty luck

YEAH one was a Tideline trigger sump and one was a Bashsea sump that Did NOT have the baffles glued in tightly, I was able to catch both leaks only after a few gallons were released into my carpet. Thanks to Premium aquatics they refunded my money for the Bashsea. i had to fight months with the vendor of tideline before i recouped my money. Premium aquatics TOP NOTCH IMO.

 

[MnFish1]

It’s different because it has a pre filter with 6 sponges on a skewer that you can remove by just twisting a cap and pulling the skewer out. Check out a cleaning video of it, it’s very easy. Did your canister filters have a decent pre filter?

I looked at the video. I agree with him that a canister filter Is not 'bad'. The nitrate factory claim is not true - it's a matter of maintenene. That said - the glass tubes that he is using - all good - except they will quickly be covered with algae in most tanks. As others have said - what is the purpose of it? It really is just a glorified power head. As to the OP's post - same thing - there are multiple nitrate/nutrient methods that take a lot less work, IMHO. I would never again use a canister filter (including in freshwater - where most of my experience comes from )

 

[MnFish1]

Ran an Eheim in the 90s. Cleaned it once every six months or opened to replace carbon once water got yellow or flow reduced because sponges clogged. If different size media are used from coarse to fine (that will stay in the filter) then detritus will decompose and when opened all that will be found is brown muck which represents the final stage of decomposition and takes much longer to fully decompose which is the mineralization phase where nutrients such as calcium and magnesium are released into the water. Sometimes leaving it alone best approach assuming nitrates and phosphates are managed.

Upcoming build will run with a pair of FX6 (current plan) as prefilters to breakdown detritus before flowing through pleated sediment filters to remove that which passed and polish the water. Won't be placing anything in the FX6 that will clog. Carbon will be final journey before reentry to display.

I might rethink that plan based on my experience with the F6. It is difficult to disassemble - and whether you somehow pre-filter the filter - it will still accumulate stuff. Then there is the leaking part. For me it was a total mess - when running - great - but leaking, etc - no way

 

[Tamberav]

YEah BUT I had TWO name brand sumps after testing leak within 2 years so either way u are screwed.

That sucks, I use petco tanks as sumps and they never have leaked on me. Then again there are old marineland tanks still in use 15-20 years later while "name brand" fancy ones be busting seals

Weird tho as you would think acrylic would be tougher but maybe it was too thin and shoddily welded.

FYI, I do love premium aquatics!

 

[MnFish1]

You obviously don't have a clue about canister filters that are available today.

Disagree. Waste is waste. If water is going through them - you will need to clean it. unless - you're using a canister filter with much greater capacity than your tank. I.e. a 17 gallon tank - would need an extremely small canister filter (one that I'm not sure is even made).

You can also easily run a reef tank with just live rock and flow in the tank (heater if needed - and perhaps a skimmer) - no filtration at all. IMHo - thats the key - as others have said - it's basically just adding more flow - plus more work. again JMHO

 

[Tamberav]

If I was to set up a tank without a sump/AIO or such. I just would not run any mechanical filtration on it.

I may hook up some when I do maintenance and stir the sand and such, then take it down.

A canister just doesn't do enough to justify running one all the time even without a sump. Just IMO.

 

[GARRIGA]

I might rethink that plan based on my experience with the F6. It is difficult to disassemble - and whether you somehow pre-filter the filter - it will still accumulate stuff. Then there is the leaking part. For me it was a total mess - when running - great - but leaking, etc - no way

I'm not going to run a pre-filter, defeats the purpose of maintaining hands off. Let nature run it's course and capture anything to fine to stay in the FX6. Big Blue filters just bigger version of what we use for RODI and I'm guessing that 50 micron followed by a 20 would polish the water beyond anything normally used and the FX6 should keep it from clogging since it should capture most items larger than 40 microns. I'm just taking a step further and adding a 5 micron to resolve pathogens and avoid using UV which just adds more complexity and doesn't actually remove anything. This approach will also remove phyto therefore perhaps with a bypass for when that's being used. By placing carbon last that should keep from clogging and last longer removing solubles. Only unknown being the use of coral skeletons. Will the CO2 produced by nitrification melt them. I'm assuming PH will be reduced naturally but will require some experimenting.

Canister in my opinion are amazing pieces of equipment because there's no bypass but as you mention, can be a hassle to maintain and with the FX6 I've heard of others breaking the screws or not placing them correctly then later getting a leak. Keep It Simple

 

[rob taft]

Up until recently I kept a 50 gallon tank with an Oase 350 cannister filter. In the 2 years I kept that tank going, I did not suffer one leak. Due to the design of my corner tank it was not possible to have a sump.

I set this tank up with a drilled overflow box at the top of the tank and the water drained into the filter from piping at the bottom of the box. I used gate valves on the system so if needed I could cut the water from draining below the overflow box. The output of the Oase fed to a UV sterilizer than back to the tank. I also used a AquaMaxx HOB 1.5 as a skimmer.

The benefit of the Oase is the prefilter design and the integral but removable heater. In the 2 years it ran I had no problems with the filter.

I used a medium foam in the prefilter section and bio home ultimate in a couple of the trays as well as carbon, chemi pure and purigen depending on the need at the time.

I have a 120 gallon tank that has the typical sump with the typical setup. As with the 50 gallon, I have a well stocked tank and change the filter socks about every 3 days. I don't use floss because of the environmental waste. With the cannister filter I would clean the pre filter once a week and the entire filter once a month. Not a big difference in maintenance time between the two tanks.

Now, with that said, if I could have gone the sump route on the 50 gallon I would have as it offers more flexibility such as a refugium and a better skimmer than the HOB.

Can you keep a successful reef tank on a cannister filter. Absolutely! Heck, I kept a saltwater tank for 5 years in the 1980s on an undergravel filter. All of the options are waste producers if basic maintenance isn't followed. So do what your budget and space constraints allow. If you decide to go the cannister route I would recommend the Oase for the prefilter and built in heater.