Is dosing killing my corals?

Steve1500

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I have a 75G mixed reef with mostly LPS and a few SPS (montis, birds nest) and softies. My nitrates are around 1 ppm (Nyos kit) and my phosphates are at 0 ppm (Hanna LR). I have tried to increase by feeding heavily but nothing happens. I have two more fish in QT that will go in the DT in mid Aug.

My Ca is around 420 and Alk is 8-8.3. SG is 1.026. Have not checked my Mg in a while but last time I checked it was around 1400.

I have dino and cyano issues and i do change my water to keep them at bay. I understand I need to stop water changes to get my nutrients up, but my corals seem to bounce back just a little when I do the WC.

Here is my problem: A month ago I tried dosing using lab grad Sodium Nitrate and Potassium Phosphate to bring up my nutrients. I brought things up slowly but after a week or two, the LPS and SPS took a nose dive (losing polyps, bleaching, you name it) and I cannot figure out why. I stopped dosing and restarted yesterday and today, my corals look worse than they ever did. I am dosing using James Plantes calculator and I dose 6 ppm for Nitrates (10 ml) and .003 for Phosphates (5 ml). Is this to much for them to handle in one dose? Not sure, but the dinos seem to increase after I dose which I hear is expected and this may be a part of my problem, but I am just guessing.

Any ideas on what I may be doing wrong? BTW, I will be doing a Triton lab test later this week.

Thanks
Steve
 
Technical grade is not very pure so its possible that those are causing the problems you notice. Have a potassium test kit? What are you using to measure salinity? Id double check at the lfs all parameters are good.
 
No Potassium kit, but I am sending off a water sample to Triton. I completely stopped dosing and reverted to heavy feeding. Corals are still pitiful!
 
Tank has been running for only 7 months. I figure that is part of my problem with the immaturity of the system. Some other folks said to add granulated carbon to deal with the dino toxins. Thoughts?
 
I don't think it likely that the nitrate and phosphate you dosed is a direct problem for corals, assuming it is adequately pure.
Randy, I bought my Sodium Nitrate from the Science Company and it says "Lab grade". The Mono Potassium Phosphate came from the Green Leaf aquarium website store, but it does not say anything about purity. Should I switch to Seachem or Brightwell?
 
Tank has been running for only 7 months. I figure that is part of my problem with the immaturity of the system. Some other folks said to add granulated carbon to deal with the dino toxins. Thoughts?

If they are dieing off, then yes. GAC.
 
Tank has been running for only 7 months. I figure that is part of my problem with the immaturity of the system. Some other folks said to add granulated carbon to deal with the dino toxins. Thoughts?

If you have enough dinos that toxins might be a concern, then yes, GAC is a fine plan (and is unlikely to ever hurt).
 
Randy, I bought my Sodium Nitrate from the Science Company and it says "Lab grade". The Mono Potassium Phosphate came from the Green Leaf aquarium website store, but it does not say anything about purity. Should I switch to Seachem or Brightwell?

Lab grade isn't really any standard thing, but may be perfectly fine. Do they give a percent purity? You can get food grade sodium or potassium nitrate online.
 
No percentage given.

I have never used GAC but I do have some Fluval carbon mesh bags (called Aquaclear)...is that considered GAC? Do I just drop a few bags in my sump and change every few weeks? I have no room in my sump for a GFO, but I might be able to squeeze in a UV sterilizer above the sump via the plumbing.
 
No percentage given.

I have never used GAC but I do have some Fluval carbon mesh bags (called Aquaclear)...is that considered GAC? Do I just drop a few bags in my sump and change every few weeks? I have no room in my sump for a GFO, but I might be able to squeeze in a UV sterilizer above the sump via the plumbing.

Yes the fluval carbon is gac. You can drop it in the sump but its more effective in a canister filter or high flow area. Fwiw fluval carbon is more for freshwater and may have some po4 in it if not acid washed by the manufacturer
 
Yes the fluval carbon is gac. You can drop it in the sump but its more effective in a canister filter or high flow area. Fwiw fluval carbon is more for freshwater and may have some po4 in it if not acid washed by the manufacturer
Canister filter as in HOB or do you mean Carbon or GFO reactor ? BRS Rox. 8 good for this? Any other recommendations? Thanks for all your help!
 
Canister filter as in HOB or do you mean Carbon or GFO reactor ? BRS Rox. 8 good for this? Any other recommendations? Thanks for all your help!
Yes in a powered filter that can accommodate filtering materials. Its not necessary just works quicker. Rox .8 is probably the best carbon out there.
 

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