is drilling thicker glass eaier than thiner?

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Devaji

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long story short I am moving my tank in the next cpl days its a SCA 90 36x24x24 with the center internal overflow.

thinking of drilling!?!
or at the very lest removing the overflow box as it takes up so much real estate its about 12" wide that alot on a 3' tank.

so if I drill my understanding is that is way easier than say a 40br correct? its 12mm think I would need to put 2 holes for the overflow box like MM,ghost or others.
then not to push my luck just do over the tank returns...

thoughts? anyone done this removed the internal overflow and drilled?
I have a 50% success rate with drilling 40br 1 broked and one made it...
 
Both have there things about them As for thick being easier , maybe just takes longer. I think with thin glass You have to be more gentle.
 
You have to be more gentle with thin glass - take your time and try to keep water running over it at all times. Thicker glass is obviously less delicate - but you need to keep the hole saw in position such that you punch straight through and veer a bit and get a wonky angled hole.
 
There's significantly less risk of cracking when drilling thicker glass. Regardless of the thickness, I recommend using a backing board clamped to the glass so when the bit is nearly through the glass the board is there to support it and greatly reduces the risk of chipping.
 
I believe suncrest reef wasn't referring to the glass fall through, but his idea will do this as well, but so not to chip the inside which can impact the gasket fit and ultimately leak outside the tank.

Alternative is if you could drill from inside out, this would be ideal because an exit chip won't touch the water side and cause leaks through poor gasket contact.

This is from my research and experience, prior to research; i.e. learned from my mistakes.
yeah In the past I used a little loose masking tape to make sure the glass hole does not fall through..
 
As you discovered, the biggest risk is as you complete the hole the glass tends to chip out. Chips are a bigger problem under the gasket than the nut, so if possible, plan how you're going to place the bulkheads and drill from the gasket side to the nut side.

As others have mentioned, patience pays off. Glass hole saws actually grind rather than sawing or cutting like a traditional bit, so more pressure really doesn't help and at the end of the cut it leads to chip out. Actually pulling up on the drill a bit to reduce the pressure can help. Another trick is to clamp a piece of wood behind the hole to support the glass (and the drill.)

Thin glass, like the 40b has bends and flexes more under the weight, so the combination of the hole, chipping out and the added strain caused by the bending makes it more likely to break. supporting it with a board to reduce the bending can help, but it's more difficult either way.
 
I’ve ground dozens of holes. Only cracked two - both 1/8” tanks. So thicker glass is definitely easier for me.
 
I would say thinner is definitely easier. Mainly because how much quicker it goes through. When drilling my 75 gallon I only used the guide for my return line because the bit was older and didn't cut as well
 

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