Is it time for Gfo

Reefdiculous22

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Hey all. I’m wondering if it is time for me to start using my Gfo reactor. My tank is a month old. I’ve recently starting getting diatoms and film algae and the past few days the algae has become very aggressive and has clouded my water considerably. I purchased a carbon/Gfo reactor when I purchased the tank and have been running the carbon for the past couple of weeks without the Gfo. I also have a skimmer and filter socks running. I plan on starting the refugium it’s just impossible to get chaeto right now from the places I shop. So I thought maybe running the Gfo for a bit until I can get it going would help. This is my first tank so I’m not very experienced. Any help and advice is greatly appreciated. My phos. Is .07 using a Hana and nitrates are 8.0 also using a Hana. Thanks again.
image.jpg
 
Why would you do that? Your numbers are fine. Your tank is going to go through a variety of ugly phases the first year. If you bottom nutrients out with GFO you are opening the door for a world of trouble.
I see. I just thought it would help clear the water. I just did my weekly change 2 days ago and I can’t see from one end to the other. Lol
 
I see. I just thought it would help clear the water. I just did my weekly change 2 days ago and I can’t see from one end to the other. Lol
Your having a bacteria or algae bloom which is common in new tanks also. If you have no corals leave your lights off the first 3 or 4 months and let your tank develop biodiversity and microfauna and then your ugly stages will be much more manageable.
 
Should I turn the flow up on the carbon? Will that help? Could it be more of a bacterial bloom? I notice after scraping the glass is when it starts to get worse obviously from getting the algae into the water column but it doesn’t seem to really clear up to well after that.
 
Your having a bacteria or algae bloom which is common in new tanks also. If you have no corals leave your lights off the first 3 or 4 months and let your tank develop biodiversity and microfauna and then your ugly stages will be much more manageable.
Unfortunately I have corals.
 
Unfortunately I have corals.
Well then just focus as best as possible on your parameters. It is very difficult for the average reefer to maintain stability in a new tank and that makes it difficult for corals too. Weekly water changes, siphon out what algae you can, start adding cleaner crew. Some blooms become toxic to fish so may want an airstone for a few days but it should go away in a week or less if you keep good numbers on everything.
 
Well then just focus as best as possible on your parameters. It is very difficult for the average reefer to maintain stability in a new tank and that makes it difficult for corals too. Weekly water changes, siphon out what algae you can, start adding cleaner crew. Some blooms become toxic to fish so may want an airstone for a few days but it should go away in a week or less if you keep good numbers on everything.
Okay. Thanks
 
A small UV unit can be helpful when scraped algae goes into the water column and blooms.

As far as gfo, I would not. Your tank is brand new, your phos is fine where it is. GFO can just as easily strip you to 0 which will bring on a whole host of other unwanted issues.
 
GFO will not address the issue you have and if needed should be applied sparingly. It is impossible to see anything under the blue lighting. If diatoms, not a huge concern. Diatoms are a brown algae that typically appear in a reef tank that has just completed its cycle but they can also appear in an established reef tank. They can cover sand, rock, pumps, glass, you name it. Diatoms look ugly but in most cases they are harmless so the key is to not panic when they appear.
Diatoms feed mainly off of silicates but also consume dissolved organic compounds, phosphate and nitrates. Unfiltered tap water can contain silicates and is a good way to jump start a bloom if you use it to mix salt or to replace water that evaporated from the tank. The best way to prevent this from happening is to filter water through a RODI unit, although you can still get a diatom bloom when using RODI if the cartridge that removes silicates expires.
Diatoms are typically harmless to a captive reef and can be beaten once their food source expires. Once you put the kibosh on the source, the outbreak should last a couple of weeks so just be patient and it will pass.

For major outbreaks you may want to consider the three day blackout. Diatoms are easily wiped from the glass with a mag float, a turkey baster or a toothbrush can access other areas of the tank. Be prepared for them to re-establish themselves quickly, they are likely to be able to resettle and have exponential growth rates.
To prevent their return, practice good aquarium husbandry by doing regular water changes, keep the substrate clean, don’t overfeed the fish, ensure your skimmer is running at an optimal level and rinse out filter socks and sponges on a regular basis.
Some cleaner crew to help control it are : Cerith snails, Nerite snails and Trochus snails and also Astraea snails are effective at removing diatoms.
 

GFO will not address the issue you have and if needed should be applied sparingly. It is impossible to see anything under the blue lighting. If diatoms, not a huge concern. Diatoms are a brown algae that typically appear in a reef tank that has just completed its cycle but they can also appear in an established reef tank. They can cover sand, rock, pumps, glass, you name it. Diatoms look ugly but in most cases they are harmless so the key is to not panic when they appear.
Diatoms feed mainly off of silicates but also consume dissolved organic compounds, phosphate and nitrates. Unfiltered tap water can contain silicates and is a good way to jump start a bloom if you use it to mix salt or to replace water that evaporated from the tank. The best way to prevent this from happening is to filter water through a RODI unit, although you can still get a diatom bloom when using RODI if the cartridge that removes silicates expires.
Diatoms are typically harmless to a captive reef and can be beaten once their food source expires. Once you put the kibosh on the source, the outbreak should last a couple of weeks so just be patient and it will pass.

For major outbreaks you may want to consider the three day blackout. Diatoms are easily wiped from the glass with a mag float, a turkey baster or a toothbrush can access other areas of the tank. Be prepared for them to re-establish themselves quickly, they are likely to be able to resettle and have exponential growth rates.
To prevent their return, practice good aquarium husbandry by doing regular water changes, keep the substrate clean, don’t overfeed the fish, ensure your skimmer is running at an optimal level and rinse out filter socks and sponges on a regular basis.
Some cleaner crew to help control it are : Cerith snails, Nerite snails and Trochus snails and also Astraea snails are effective at removing diatoms.
It’s actually green with the lights off. That pic was just to show how cloudy it was.
1D29D9FF-D7D5-4E30-8402-69DC7C9A732C.jpeg

 


It’s actually green with the lights off. That pic was just to show how cloudy it was.
1D29D9FF-D7D5-4E30-8402-69DC7C9A732C.jpeg

Nothing more than film algae. You should be able to blow loose with a turkey baster. You may want to reduce white light intensity a little and tyhe amount of hours white lights are on

Is this tank at or near a window?
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet ?

You can add:
3 turbo grazer snails
3 astrea snails
4-5 nassarius snails

These will help consume some of this up
 
Have you added anything to the tank recently? Coral food etc..
 
GFO will not address the issue you have and if needed should be applied sparingly. It is impossible to see anything under the blue lighting. If diatoms, not a huge concern. Diatoms are a brown algae that typically appear in a reef tank that has just completed its cycle but they can also appear in an established reef tank. They can cover sand, rock, pumps, glass, you name it. Diatoms look ugly but in most cases they are harmless so the key is to not panic when they appear.
Diatoms feed mainly off of silicates but also consume dissolved organic compounds, phosphate and nitrates. Unfiltered tap water can contain silicates and is a good way to jump start a bloom if you use it to mix salt or to replace water that evaporated from the tank. The best way to prevent this from happening is to filter water through a RODI unit, although you can still get a diatom bloom when using RODI if the cartridge that removes silicates expires.
Diatoms are typically harmless to a captive reef and can be beaten once their food source expires. Once you put the kibosh on the source, the outbreak should last a couple of weeks so just be patient and it will pass.

For major outbreaks you may want to consider the three day blackout. Diatoms are easily wiped from the glass with a mag float, a turkey baster or a toothbrush can access other areas of the tank. Be prepared for them to re-establish themselves quickly, they are likely to be able to resettle and have exponential growth rates.
To prevent their return, practice good aquarium husbandry by doing regular water changes, keep the substrate clean, don’t overfeed the fish, ensure your skimmer is running at an optimal level and rinse out filter socks and sponges on a regular basis.
Some cleaner crew to help control it are : Cerith snails, Nerite snails and Trochus snails and also Astraea snails are effective at removing diatoms.
I will be purchasing some cuc members next week. My lfs sold me 3 trocchus. I don’t feel like that was enough. One died and 1 doesn’t do much and I haven’t seen the other one since yesterday.
 
Nothing more than film algae. You should be able to blow loose with a turkey baster. You may want to reduce white light intensity a little and tyhe amount of hours white lights are on

Is this tank at or near a window?
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet ?

You can add:
3 turbo grazer snails
3 astrea snails
4-5 nassarius snails

These will help consume some of this up
Yes I have a brs 7 stage Rodi which I just put new resin in last week. It is near a window but it has blinds on it and I put a towel over it. image.jpg
 
I will be purchasing some cuc members next week. My lfs sold me 3 trocchus. I don’t feel like that was enough. One died and 1 doesn’t do much and I haven’t seen the other one since yesterday.
With snailks, acclimate them very well and trochus best for cyano, not green algae
 

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