Is it time to panic????

[James Hammett]

I've had to move my tank 4 times in the past 3 years. Although it wasn't fun, it wasn't ever as bad as I thought it would be. There have been very minimal losses. I did the giant Rubbermaid tub method with a heater and powerhead. I always toss the sand and start with new, the rocks and Marine Pure balls have transferred enough bacteria.

?
so tossing sand and starting that over doesnt affet tank stability? like nems dont freak out?

 

[Isaac Alves]

This is a fascinating thread. And I'm sure relevant to more Reef "curators" than we assume. Please keep this thread going so we can help with advice and follow along. A definite challenge. Are your students involved in this as well?

 

[James Hammett]

This is a fascinating thread. And I'm sure relevant to more Reef "curators" than we assume. Please keep this thread going so we can help with advice and follow along. A definite challenge. Are your students involved in this as well?

Thank You. Yes my students are involved....actually our reefs are 100% built and maintained by special education students in my classroom. we maintain two tanks in my wife classroom, a reef and a fowlr in my classroom , and a native species (Blue Gill and bass) tank in our outdoor ed teachers classroom. we can be followed here on our build thread as well as on FB @eaglereef.... side note we function about 90% on donations from members here in the beginning as well as local reefers. we are always open to more help

 

[Daniel@R2R Verified Admin]

I'm sure it's doable...tough but doable...

 

[Bbfishb81]

I wouldn't start with all new substrate. If you want to replace some, it's a different story, but IMO it wouldn't be beneficial in anyway to replace all the substrate. You'd be removing beneficial bacteria.

 

[sbash]

I wouldn't start with all new substrate. If you want to replace some, it's a different story, but IMO it wouldn't be beneficial in anyway to replace all the substrate. You'd be removing beneficial bacteria.

Although, yes, it would remove beneficial bacteria; that is more or less a non-issue most of the time. It might make a difference in a minimalist tank or a heavily stocked tank, but the typical amount of rocks themselves are more than enough for the average bioload.

However, there are risks in keeping the old substrate. Once you drain the tank, and start stirring the sand, you are going to kick up all sorts of gunk. Some of which could be toxic or nitrate heavy. I have always started with replacement sand (ideally used sand, new just takes so long to rinse and cure...).

Then there is the matter of logistics. The sand comes out last but has to go in first(ish); how are you going to do this?

Now, @OP has multiple tanks, so I would consolidate one tank to the others, drain until about 3-4" from the bottom. Store the rocks in a bin temporarily. Stir the bed, releasing all the toxins and gunk, drain the tank and discard the gross water. Rinse the sand with some of the clean water; there you go, live and clean substrate! Rinse and repeat for each tank (pun intended).

I would also get the temporary bins cycling as soon as possible, which may or may not be possible in this situation. At the very least filled with water (up to temp) and a few rocks...

Watch for ammonia for the first couple days after moving the system and keep some Prime on hand, just in case...

 

[drivingmecrazy]

I have this 400 gallon fish farm I used to raise catfish in each year. it has a filter table that basically runs on a siphon type system. Think i could fill it half way or so. maybe even as low as 100 gallons and move rock and coral and fish into it for a few months? i could maybe do like the other poster and put my lights on the tank and use my ATO to keep it at a level? combine all three reefs in here and redistribute when the room is finished?

I have personally used this type of a setup. I love fish farm stock tanks.

I believe if you can put all your live rock and corals on the outside edges. With the good flow the pump generates will allow the water to turn in a spiral. All the fish waist and debris will end up in the middle. Place the four way siphon pipe in the middle of the tank all debris should be siphon out on to the table. Scrape it clean everyday and you will have a very healthy ecosystem.

If you can, build a small platform on the edge aswell for a protein skimmer.

I personally believe I would want the spiral action to help the tank stay clean.

Other members may have a different opinion. Most fish farms use these style tanks. They require very little maintenance I personally like them.

As other members have suggested be sure to monitor your water parameters and perform water changes. You will be fine. Good luck, be sure to post an update and show us what you ended up deciding. So all of us can learn. : )

 

[ZoWhat]

Our Eagle reef is a 75 gallon class room reef and 90 gallon fowlr in one room and a 32 bio cube and 33 long mangrove reef in a second room. My students and I have been building these reefs for going on 2 years now. The Panic button was lightly pressed yesterday when I was made aware of a looming crisis situation for all tanks. This up coming summer (Summer of '20) 8 months from now, all science classrooms are getting new lab stations, floors, and ceilings. I have to figure out what to do with 3 established reefs and an established fowlr system during construction. if they were just doing ceilings and counters i could maybe cover them but the floors are a deal killer they have to move. I need a plan of action to move them twice next summer out then back in without losing the established systems. ( dont want to restart) I am lost and have no idea where to put them or how to manage this with out destroying the reefs...... just typing this up has me in full panic HELP!!!!

IMO I would take the word Homework to heart and make arrangements to move these tanks to either your home or to a very very very dedicated students home during construction.

Once construction is complete, move them back into place

 

[29galreefer]

I have a reef tank that I have been moving back and forth to college, and if you can move the tanks by emptying of corals, then live rocks, then fish (maybe scoop out some sand but add back to tank) but if you add to another tank or store it in another large tub you should cycle the tank or tub by adding tank water and some live rock to it slowly for the next few months.
If possible just remove everything from tanks and move tank to a location it can sit for a few months then slowly add the tank water from your tank before (instead of a bunch of new water) and the live rocks then add back in the corals. If you can do this in a few hours with some help thats best for not having to cycle tank and keeping everything the same. I used a cooler for my corals but if attached to rocks just store in buckets in a safe way. Have some new water made up to add at new location.
Otherwise, set up a new tank soon in new location and let it run for a few months with nothing in it then move corals to new tank but the sand and glass will probably lose the beneficial bacteria of the established tanks

 

[tony'stank]

What are these bins called? Planning on upgrading from 125 to 180 and these holding bins would work perfect. Seen them before but never knew what they are called

Those bins Stock tanks. You can buy them at tractor supply company

 

[tony'stank]

It will be difficult but doable. When my old Oceanic tank cracked I set up temporary holding tanks in my basement. I moved all of my livestock, rock and substrate into them. I did lose some of the more delicate corals because it was winter and I had trouble maintaining the right temperature. When I set up my new tank I used the same rocks and substrate. I just rinsed them in old saltwater. I never had a new cycle in the new tank. Good luck
L