Is my Kenya tree ok?

Gently remove algae, if you choose, with a toothbrush.
If you need something gentler that a toothbrush, you can get makeup brushes at the Dollar Store. The larger the brush, the softer it is. I use these sometimes.
 
My two sinularia look just like the left picture when it is about to shed and Kenya's also shed. Sometimes algae will start to grow on mine as they get ready to do it. Oddly, they both always shed at the same time.
 
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I had a large leather coral act the same way. It closed up longer than normal and had brown algae growing on its surface. When it did try to open only a few polyps on the outer edge were showing. I checked all of my water parameters. Everything was fine accept the Alkalinity had dropped to 5 dKh. I had been keeping it at 11 dKh. I did a moderate water change, used the Red Sea system to increase my dKh, and used a toothbrush to gently remove the algae. My coral was back to normal in a couple of day. I would test the Alkalinity and see where it is at.
 
Hey guys sorry for late response. Kenya’s are doing good and have stretched out and polyps are opening, even the ones with algae on them. I also went out and got a Nassarius snail and a emerald crab female to help with algae and future detritus. In regards to algae I have this freshwater Nerita snail in the tank that has cleaned off almost all the algae on the rock in the first picture. Thank you guys for advice and tips on what to do.
 
I had a large leather coral act the same way. It closed up longer than normal and had brown algae growing on its surface. When it did try to open only a few polyps on the outer edge were showing. I checked all of my water parameters. Everything was fine accept the Alkalinity had dropped to 5 dKh. I had been keeping it at 11 dKh. I did a moderate water change, used the Red Sea system to increase my dKh, and used a toothbrush to gently remove the algae. My coral was back to normal in a couple of day. I would test the Alkalinity and see where it is at.
I will test for that thanks so much. I completely forgot about testing for alkalinity.
 
I would just use a turkey baster and blow the algea off of them. With those being kenya trees I doubt they're dying. They're almost impossible to kill IME.

You may already know this but you will eventually have small kenya trees all over the tank unless you are very careful about pruning them before they can drop babies.
I would love to see Kenya’s take over the tank. Only kind of coral I really want in the tank because I am a beginner.
 
If you are leaving your lights on 24/7 your going to grow algae like mad and likely burn the corals flesh. You need to get that down to a 1/8/1 schedule. Mine is sunrise at 11-12 then sunset 9-10. My light does a lunar cycle so it varies but always ends by 1am. I'm having great success with this so far.

Let us know some more about the tank and parameters like PH level. Alkalinity and calcium. These will help us with more insight as to what is going on.

Phosphate is another important parameter.

Make sure your salinity is 1.025sg or 35ppt

Everything Maters to an accurate diagnosis.
I have a 24/7 light cycle on the tank that I start before I leave to work around 6am to 6:30am then when I come home from my second job around 9:30pm-10pm the moon light has already kicked in and I turn the tank off around 10pm-11pm because I would like to see the tank while I’m home. I’m also looking into a new light one that has a timer and is better than this 7watt LED light I have here.
 
I have a 24/7 light cycle on the tank that I start before I leave to work around 6am to 6:30am then when I come home from my second job around 9:30pm-10pm the moon light has already kicked in and I turn the tank off around 10pm-11pm because I would like to see the tank while I’m home. I’m also looking into a new light one that has a timer and is better than this 7watt LED light I have here.
Look into the used market place on the forum im sure you can find a nice t5 fixture with will give you a nice spread and a gentle light until you get more well versed. Things like PAR need to be measured and LED can very quickly get too much for some corals. Timers are very cheap on amazon. probably less then 20$ just to get you going for a mechanical one.
 
While it sounds like it was just a shedding cycle, it also sounds like the light may not be powerful enough (depending on tank size). I would definitely look at upgrading your light like you mentioned
 
While it sounds like it was just a shedding cycle, it also sounds like the light may not be powerful enough (depending on tank size). I would definitely look at upgrading your light like you mention
Look into the used market place on the forum im sure you can find a nice t5 fixture with will give you a nice spread and a gentle light until you get more well versed. Things like PAR need to be measured and LED can very quickly get too much for some corals. Timers are very cheap on amazon. probably less then 20$ just to get you going for a mechanical one.
i appreciate the response but I’m not getting into t5 lighting. I just don’t like the idea of not having a lighting cycle.
 
While it sounds like it was just a shedding cycle, it also sounds like the light may not be powerful enough (depending on tank size). I would definitely look at upgrading your light like you mentioned
I believe it is a lightning issue. And finding the type of light that I like is hard for my tank because it’s 15 wide by 18 deep. I was thinking of upgrading to a 20high. But what worries me is I have a new tank. I’m very knowledgeable when it comes to freshwater. So I was wondering if I take all the substrate, live rock, fish and coral. And throw them in the 20high if the tank will cycle instantly like a freshwater would?
 
Depending on how long the tank has been set up you can transfer the substrate but some would always reccomend new substrate (due to potential ammonia spike). You should be able to transfer everything without much of a new cycle as your rock is now live and you have biological filtration in whichever type of filter you may use.

That said, there are plenty of LED fixtures that should work for that size tank (though you may get some shadowing towards the corners). One that seems to be getting popular for the price is the SmatFarm 95 watt LED on Amazon. 6 programmable channels (I believe - I don’t have this fixture). Otherwise the selling forums here can sometimes net some good deals on name brand LED fixtures.
 
Depending on how long the tank has been set up you can transfer the substrate but some would always reccomend new substrate (due to potential ammonia spike). You should be able to transfer everything without much of a new cycle as your rock is now live and you have biological filtration in whichever type of filter you may use.

That said, there are plenty of LED fixtures that should work for that size tank (though you may get some shadowing towards the corners). One that seems to be getting popular for the price is the SmatFarm 95 watt LED on Amazon. 6 programmable channels (I believe - I don’t have this fixture). Otherwise the selling forums here can sometimes net some good deals on name brand LED fixtures.
The LED fixtures that will fit my tank are clip on. I have no room for that. And it’s going to be a eye swore to me because I’m weird lol. I have huge hang on back filter. Tank just cycled only like 2wks ago definitely to early. And if I upgraded I would need more sand for sure.
 

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