Is my Uv and chiller plumbed right?

[brownsalt92]

So from my sump it goes to a blue line 40 pump, from pump it goes to the chiller, from to a 1/3 chiller it goes to a aqua uv sterilizer, and from there into tank. There are no valves to restrict water besides for a ball valve from the sump to the pump. This is the way it's been plumbed since my dad got the tank then I bought it off him.

Should the uv or chiller have a slower rate through them than just a blue line pump pushing as much as it can?

 

[Diesel]

So from my sump it goes to a blue line 40 pump, from pump it goes to the chiller, from to a 1/3 chiller it goes to a aqua uv sterilizer, and from there into tank. There are no valves to restrict water besides for a ball valve from the sump to the pump. This is the way it's been plumbed since my dad got the tank then I bought it off him.

Should the uv or chiller have a slower rate through them than just a blue line pump pushing as much as it can?

That's about right but pump water from the drain section from your sump and pump it back into the return pump area.
Never have a chiller drop water straight into the tank.
Also if you use a inline UV the water will heat up a degree or so when it comes from the chiller.

How many gallons is the blueline pump rated for?

 

[brownsalt92]

That's about right but pump water from the drain section from your sump and pump it back into the return pump area.
Never have a chiller drop water straight into the tank.
Also if you use a inline UV the water will heat up a degree or so when it comes from the chiller.

How many gallons is the blueline pump rated for?

Website says 780 gph at 0'

 

[Diesel]

Website says 780 gph at 0'

That's way to much flow for either, the chiller and UV.
Better is to get a 100 gallon pump for the chiller an even 100 might be to much for the UV.
What is the UV rated at?
What size is your chiller and what brand?

 

[brownsalt92]

400 at 90000 watercolmn?

 

[Robert Vacchiano]

I have a chiller and uv it is being used with a 300 gallon pump works great the uv took care of a hair algae problem. The chiller is used but only turns on in summertime. I would cut your flow in half

 

[brownsalt92]

That's way to much flow for either, the chiller and UV.
Better is to get a 100 gallon pump for the chiller an even 100 might be to much for the UV.
What is the UV rated at?
What size is your chiller and what brand?

Okay the chiller is a 1/10hp
The uv is rated for 400 gph

 

[brownsalt92]

Arctica 1/10 hp
Uv is a aqua 25 watt 400 gph

 

[brownsalt92]

That's way to much flow for either, the chiller and UV.
Better is to get a 100 gallon pump for the chiller an even 100 might be to much for the UV.
What is the UV rated at?
What size is your chiller and what brand?

Okay I plugged in my info on jbj website. It says I need 1/5hp for my tank. But
It's had a 1/10hp for a year and a half I've owned the tank and the 2 years prior my dad owned it. When I come across a deal on a 1/5hp I will scoop it up!

What would in your opinion be to plumb the system. Just do return pump right into display tank? Then a new submersible pump from my Uv, to the chiller back to the return area of my sump

 

[Robert Vacchiano]

You wil get a better kill rate with uv if you pass 300 gallons an hour through it and chiller would be more efficient at that rate also . The pump you have is fine it would just be a little better at slower rate. You could put a ball valve on it and restrict it a little to get a slower rate

 

[Diesel]

Let us be clear that a fast rate in water flow the UV works on it's worst.
Why..... cause everything, well almost everything that passes up the UV will be killed if enough exposure to the UV light.
HA or for that matter any kind of algae that grows on rocks, sand, equipment and glass the UV filter has no effect on that.
Bacteria or parasites that pass the light most likely will be killed, that is if the flow is slow enough that the UV can sap them long enough.
I for that matter never believed in a UV on a saltwater system.

Using a ball valve and reducing a pump for more than 50% of the flow rate will generate in more heat from the pump.
For that the lifetime of the pump will be less and you add a degree of temperature to your water that in your case the chiller will have to cool again which cost you more $$$ in electricity.

 

[Robert Vacchiano]

That is not intirely true not that it killed it directly but had hair algae in birds nest coral and rock and my nitrate and phosphate were 0 yet algae keep on coming back and never eliminated from corals until uv was installed a 55 watt unit 300 gallons an hour and all traces of algae gone in one week

 

[Diesel]

That is not intirely true not that it killed it directly but had hair algae in birds nest coral and rock and my nitrate and phosphate were 0 yet algae keep on coming back and never eliminated from corals until uv was installed a 55 watt unit 300 gallons an hour and all traces of algae gone in one week

Can you explain to me how your UV would have killed your HA in your birdnest if it never past the UV light?

 

[brownsalt92]

Let us be clear that a fast rate in water flow the UV works on it's worst.
Why..... cause everything, well almost everything that passes up the UV will be killed if enough exposure to the UV light.
HA or for that matter any kind of algae that grows on rocks, sand, equipment and glass the UV filter has no effect on that.
Bacteria or parasites that pass the light most likely will be killed, that is if the flow is slow enough that the UV can sap them long enough.
I for that matter never believed in a UV on a saltwater system.

Using a ball valve and reducing a pump for more than 50% of the flow rate will generate in more heat from the pump.
For that the lifetime of the pump will be less and you add a degree of temperature to your water that in your case the chiller will have to cool again which cost you more $$$ in electricity.

I have my ball valve wide open, I'm not at all going to restrict the flow on my return pump at all. The more turn over the better in my head on the tank.
For the uv and chiller what would be the best route to re plumb? A new submersible pump with uv in line then chiller return line to return section of my sump?

 

[Robert Vacchiano]

Not sure but if alga was killed in water colum I guess it was all that was needed to starve it out with nitrate and phosphate at 0. Nothing else was done and algae keep on coming back for months before this

 

[Diesel]

I have my ball valve wide open, I'm not at all going to restrict the flow on my return pump at all. The more turn over the better in my head on the tank.
For the uv and chiller what would be the best route to re plumb? A new submersible pump with uv in line then chiller return line to return section of my sump?

Yes you got that right, don't restrict the return pump.
Sometimes you have to as you don't want to create a white water river through your sump.
My 200 gallon tank I only turn the water over 5 times per hour and I use a EM DC Vectra L1 pump which is set for 40% only

 

[brownsalt92]

Yes you got that right, don't restrict the return pump.
Sometimes you have to as you don't want to create a white water river through your sump.
My 200 gallon tank I only turn the water over 5 times per hour and I use a EM DC Vectra L1 pump which is set for 40% only

Yea maybe I'll get a new chunk of 3/4" vynal tubing and see what the flow looks like with chiller and uv eliminated while I change the bulb on my uv.

 

[Diesel]

Not sure but if alga was killed in water colum I guess it was all that was needed to starve it out with nitrate and phosphate at 0. Nothing else was done and algae keep on coming back for months before this

With a UV filter/light you put more nutrients in your water column as what ever passes the light is dead tissue entering back into the tank again, that on return feed your corals and bacteria load.
Which in that case your bacteria load got healthier and start consuming more No3 and Po4 that lowered the nutrients level in your tank.
The presents of algae gives you a false reading as well as the algae will take up any nutrients or most of it and you will detect a low or undetectable No3 or Po4.
IMO better and a balanced maintenance did kill your HA.

 

[Robert Vacchiano]

Could be it was just stznge it was all gone a week after uv installed