Is this 80/20 stand ok?

[petestewardson]

OK so I have designed myself a stand with 80/20 ( known as just aluminium profile over here. )

Just wanted some advise on if this will do the job?

The tank is going to be roughly 48" x 26" x 22" (h) and the stank is constructed with 45mm x 45mm and 45mm x 90mm profile. Very new to the use of this stuff as I've just made light fixings before so not 100% sure if I'm working this right

There is a shelf setup on the left so I can fit my dosers etc up there, then under it all the electricals.

 

[nautical_nathaniel]

Looks pretty sturdy to me, let's see if anyone in the #reefsquad has any other thoughts

 

[Reefer Reboot]

That should be plenty strong enough. If you would like a little extra protection, remove the feet and place it directly on the ground. This will give it less possibility of bowing under the weight.

 

[Danj]

If the glass doesn't have a frame on the bottom, it would probably be a good idea to put a flat surface (e.g. plywood) between the tank and the frame, to minimize any local stresses on the glass. I wasn't paying close attention but I think there's a thread or two going around where a rimless tank leaked because it wasn't properly supported on the bottom.

 

[DFR]

It looks like it’ll be fine as designed. However I wouldn’t place 45x90 on the 26” width supporting the tank, but rather on the 48” length as it is longer so would benefit more from the additional support as the higher stress points will be there. (cause you are looking at ~1500 lbs. for the tank, water, and rocks).

 

[icejam]

4545 @ 48" long with 1500lbs of load will deflect no more than 0.13in (around 3mm).
Cosidering you have 1500 lbs over 4 beams and some centre support you have nothing to worry about.

As @Danj said you might want to consider flat top.
I would also changed the beam configuration and build top portion on top of the legs not flush with them if not using the solid top (if that makes sense). [I have seen slow creepage on 80/20 before]

 

[don_chuwish]

4545 @ 48" long with 1500lbs of load will deflect no more than 0.13in (around 3mm).
Cosidering you have 1500 lbs over 4 beams and some centre support you have nothing to worry about.

As @Danj said you might want to consider flat top.
I would also changed the beam configuration and build top portion on top of the legs not flush with them if not using the solid top (if that makes sense). [I have seen slow creepage on 80/20 before]

Nice to know someone can speak to the numbers!
+1 on getting the top frame on TOP of the corner posts instead of butt jointed. Also seems like you could save some money and skip the 4590 completely. Anything even smaller for the short bits holding the shelf? Will this have any kind of rigid panels firmly fixed to it?

 

[icejam]

Yes 4590 is an overkill especially as top horizontal pieces. Also some centre braces can be removed to save $$.
Just noticed midsection pieces are all different lengths. Any particular reason for that?
Which hardware are you using to fix beams?

 

[petestewardson]

Hi Guys, thanks for the comments.

I've only shown the aluminium frame in the image, I am intending on haveing a top above this to allow the tank to sit on it. I was thinking of having 18mm ply, with then a thin foam on top and then the tank on top of this.

I was thinking of using something smaller for the shelf but wasn't sure if that woudl cause issues trying to connect different sized profile together.

Let me take a couple of the comments on board and redraw some bits

 

[petestewardson]

OK quick few changes. Remembering there will be a ply top on it too.

I have kept the 45x90 uprights on the corners so both the top axis can rest on top of them, and it doesn't cost much extra.

 

[petestewardson]

Yes 4590 is an overkill especially as top horizontal pieces. Also some centre braces can be removed to save $$.
Just noticed midsection pieces are all different lengths. Any particular reason for that?
Which hardware are you using to fix beams?

For hardware I am planning to use the internal quick connectors as I can ask for the profile to be machined in the order.

Which center braces do you think can be removed? And which do you think are different lengths?

 

[icejam]

For hardware I am planning to use the internal quick connectors as I can ask for the profile to be machined in the order.

Which center braces do you think can be removed? And which do you think are different lengths?

I would use external connectors with 4 bolts.

With all profiles the same size (4545) you can lock them in XY axis as well as XZ and YZ where now you can't lock XY in the corners due to 4590 being too wide. With that you would only need one brace in the centre instead of 3.

It might be just a drawing but front of shelf looks like it's different lenght than back.

 

[petestewardson]

Do you mean the central braces on the bottom?

 

[icejam]

I'm nowhere near a computer so can't make you a drawing.
What's going on with corners in yellow?
You don't need parts in red at all just centre the remaining braces.

Also use this in corners with combination of 4545 as vertical pieces but a 4 bolt version.
So you would have 3 per corner. [XY. XZ. YZ]

 

[reefwiser]

Corner braces are needed at each corner this will keep the joints stable.

 

[Mebeknob]

You can also use mitered corners on the top to get rid of the 45x90 all together.

 

[TessGlo]

Well, my tank is same dimension, uses some smaller profile and is still standing a year later, so I'd say you are good I'm not an engineer so I went with the overkill method, it's plenty strong. 8020 has a deflection calculator on their site if you want to experiment with profile sizes and lists the loads each type of fastener can support.

 

[DFR]

Well, my tank is same dimension, uses some smaller profile and is still standing a year later, so I'd say you are good I'm not an engineer so I went with the overkill method, it's plenty strong. 8020 has a deflection calculator on their site if you want to experiment with profile sizes and lists the loads each type of fastener can support.

Not trying to hijack the thread, but what/how did you enclose your stand? I did this as a test setup. I plan on scaling up to a 240g cube build that I’ll probably be starting next winter. I went with acrylic but I don’t like this solution too much.

 

[TessGlo]

what/how did you enclose your stand

It's grey HPDE, I like an industrial....some call it "cold" look, so it's not a solution for everyone but I love it, its indestructible, fairly affordable and because it's an 8020 stand I can change it up easily if I decide I don't like it anymore.

I posted more about it here w/ photos : https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/h...-tank-stand-canopy.386487/page-2#post-4695218 - other good suggestions in the thread as well.