Is this a problem algae?
- Thread starter BigMike81
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Looks like thats Bryopsis from the looks of those fronds.
You don't want that in your fuge if that finds it's way to your DT you going to have a headache remove the rock and dip it in peroxide to kill it off you need to rid it from your system before it reaches your DT.
Make sure when you remove it none comes off and floats about.
Make sure when you remove it none comes off and floats about.
WetWhistle
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I would take it out and get rid of it. Stuff like that goes into sexual reproduction and breaks down and releases spore's into the tank. Then you have it growing everywhere. If you can take the rocks out scrub them with a coarse brush. If you really want to make sure shut the lights out in the fuge for a few days after you scrub them. You could try fish options like a Rainfordi Goby, they will eat that up like it is going out of style. My urchins will not touch that kind of stuff unless they are really really hungry.
I myself don't like using the peroxide method as it kill everything on the rock including beneficial life. But that option does work if that is the way you want to go.
I myself don't like using the peroxide method as it kill everything on the rock including beneficial life. But that option does work if that is the way you want to go.
Raising Magnesium levels to 1600 using Kent Tech M will take care of the problem.
simply run the variation that kills only the target, always a nice option.
consider joining the pest algae thread below this one if you like the idea (the thread in this macro forum at R2R, im linking the nano-reef thread as a picture ref) others have used tangs that either did or didn't go after that to beat it alternatively, peroxide is certainly not required.
using the peroxide method, we have that beaten probably 15 times with before and after pics and happy follow up testimony. post a full tank shot so we can see your entire system, then a means of perox w come about that kills only your target.
http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/268706-peroxide-saves-my-tank-with-pics-to-prove-it/page-59
consider joining the pest algae thread below this one if you like the idea (the thread in this macro forum at R2R, im linking the nano-reef thread as a picture ref) others have used tangs that either did or didn't go after that to beat it alternatively, peroxide is certainly not required.
using the peroxide method, we have that beaten probably 15 times with before and after pics and happy follow up testimony. post a full tank shot so we can see your entire system, then a means of perox w come about that kills only your target.
http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/268706-peroxide-saves-my-tank-with-pics-to-prove-it/page-59
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WetWhistle
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The peroxide method does work people can't argue that. You can cut down on the loss if you target just the algae. But I have seen so many people kill a perfectly good reef by using peroxide. Look at it this way, if your friend jumped off the roof and didn't break his leg does that mean you should? Just because you can use something like peroxide doesn't mean you should.
I am sure others like to use it and have had results with it. I myself have seen the damage it can and does do and will not. With so may other natural and manual options around it is not worth it. If you go the natural methods like I like to do, you actually fix what is causing the problem and not do a bandage fix like peroxide. Peroxide only treats the symptom and not the cause. I like to fix the cause approach is all. Some people prefer the peroxide route, just different approaches is all.
I am sure others like to use it and have had results with it. I myself have seen the damage it can and does do and will not. With so may other natural and manual options around it is not worth it. If you go the natural methods like I like to do, you actually fix what is causing the problem and not do a bandage fix like peroxide. Peroxide only treats the symptom and not the cause. I like to fix the cause approach is all. Some people prefer the peroxide route, just different approaches is all.
promise im not trying to press anything other than showing how to control losses
here's something to consider about obligate hitchhikers and whether or not they are nutrient independent, a bandaid as said:
what if you took an empty 10 gallon aquarium, used autoclaved prep water with no decor and ran it with .023 reefcrystals for two mos, a blank empty tank with high light and high nutrient water, put a strong metal halide light 6500 k down low just after, added some phosphate fertilizer, spike the temps to 88, and checked back at any time period:
could you get-
invasive macro algae
dinoflagellates
bryopsis
gelidium
valonia
Interesting way to consider obligate hitchhikers. Obliged hitchhiking means kills are permanent when done right
Jmo
here's something to consider about obligate hitchhikers and whether or not they are nutrient independent, a bandaid as said:
what if you took an empty 10 gallon aquarium, used autoclaved prep water with no decor and ran it with .023 reefcrystals for two mos, a blank empty tank with high light and high nutrient water, put a strong metal halide light 6500 k down low just after, added some phosphate fertilizer, spike the temps to 88, and checked back at any time period:
could you get-
invasive macro algae
dinoflagellates
bryopsis
gelidium
valonia
Interesting way to consider obligate hitchhikers. Obliged hitchhiking means kills are permanent when done right
Jmo
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WetWhistle
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It is a good thread you provided. Glad to see it worked safe for people. I just make it a point not to go the chemical cure route in my reef tank all these years. I like the natural \ manual way.
I had a buddy kill his 300 gallon SPS reef years ago using peroxide. All it took was a wrong dose and within min you could tell the damage he did. He lost 95% of his tank and after that I was like no way.
I had a buddy kill his 300 gallon SPS reef years ago using peroxide. All it took was a wrong dose and within min you could tell the damage he did. He lost 95% of his tank and after that I was like no way.
I know it's off topic of the original post but see dinoflagellate mentioned I had to deal with that is was pitta I tried everything in the end went marin forna algae X treatment wiped the dinoflagellate algae out completely but took its toll on my system and also lost all my shrimp 
Cyno is a different matter it's bacterial so technically not an algae.
I'm not one for using chemicals but we all know the agro that biops can cause so why prolong treating it and leaving it there when you could just pull that rock out and hopefully irradicate it.
In my opinion even if you killed all the life on that rock it should not upset the balance on the tank I would happily remove one rock and do that as my system would sustain it or would you sooner go the natural route and inbetween time it spreads to your DT then you talking a totally different ball game and headache.
In my opinion get it out kill it fast which means it's less likely to spread to a DT.
Cyno is a different matter it's bacterial so technically not an algae.
I'm not one for using chemicals but we all know the agro that biops can cause so why prolong treating it and leaving it there when you could just pull that rock out and hopefully irradicate it.
In my opinion even if you killed all the life on that rock it should not upset the balance on the tank I would happily remove one rock and do that as my system would sustain it or would you sooner go the natural route and inbetween time it spreads to your DT then you talking a totally different ball game and headache.
In my opinion get it out kill it fast which means it's less likely to spread to a DT.
I agree thats worth feeling snakebit, for sure. so the right way to go at this point is safe alternatives, do you have any to link that worked in a few tanks for invasive macro algae? i found invaded tank owners like options options options id still prefer what we see here to red gelidium or valonia any day. there are some tangs that would eat it if you wanted them, scopas was my guess
Yea, in a nut shell, if you just dipped it in FW it would kill everything on it. Then scrubbed off all the dead stuff.
In order to make a recommend I need to see whole tank shot to see sensitive or non sensitive animals and coral, the places its located etc.
It's true any contact will kill this macro, and fast, but the pic should tell whole story
in always trying to keep on target and off corals, I recommend spot sprays and done over time, no rush here, these will be thorough kills. a dip exposes everything and I agree a diluted one of one part 3% to two parts seawater sprayed as best on target is a nice safe working dilution and undiluted as a target spray not hitting corals w work fast as in 24 hrs
just a test run to start. my safe track record is by doing learning increments over mass sections and then working up. The pics point out overly sensitive things who cant handle overspray but most will.
Not lysmata cleaner shrimp, qt them give no exposure. aside from those cousins most all corals are tolerant of this method, especially the low test.
We aren't adding any to the tank so far, clean test run. No chance of bleaching things
It's true any contact will kill this macro, and fast, but the pic should tell whole story
in always trying to keep on target and off corals, I recommend spot sprays and done over time, no rush here, these will be thorough kills. a dip exposes everything and I agree a diluted one of one part 3% to two parts seawater sprayed as best on target is a nice safe working dilution and undiluted as a target spray not hitting corals w work fast as in 24 hrs
just a test run to start. my safe track record is by doing learning increments over mass sections and then working up. The pics point out overly sensitive things who cant handle overspray but most will.
Not lysmata cleaner shrimp, qt them give no exposure. aside from those cousins most all corals are tolerant of this method, especially the low test.
We aren't adding any to the tank so far, clean test run. No chance of bleaching things
Heres the Peroxide Dip how to
This is for corals, but works the same on the rock, but with the rock you can leave it in ther much longer to kill off all the stuff you wont' want.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hydrogen-peroxide-dip.57913/
This is for corals, but works the same on the rock, but with the rock you can leave it in ther much longer to kill off all the stuff you wont' want.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hydrogen-peroxide-dip.57913/
The whole dip sure skips a step, the targeted spot spray works well and likely won't kill small pods like a dip can.
a dip will not harm the bacteria but its second or third test step. You'll be surprised how fast this algae reacts.
a dip will not harm the bacteria but its second or third test step. You'll be surprised how fast this algae reacts.
