Is this an RO/DI unit ?
- Thread starter tunde1228
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Kind of sort of.
It would not be very efficient since it does not have a prefilter and depends on the carbon to act as both a prefilter and to remove chlorine and VOCs. This is a very bad way to go since it fouls or plugs the pores in the carbon block which are how it adsorbs chlorine and VOCs. Without the billions of tiny microscopic pores carbon is worthless.
A good efficient ref quality RO/DI will have a low micron prefilter which protects the carbon block then a low micron carbon block such as the Matrikx+1 0.6 micron Chlorine Guzzler, followed by a name brand RO membrane such as the Dow Filmtec 75 GPD or GE Water 100 GPD and finally the vertical refillable DI which you do seem to have.
Not knowing anything about its past life or how long it has been out of service, I hope you only paid what the housings and fittings are worth as thats all you can rely on to be good.
Did he tell you what RO membrane it had, how long it has been in and ouit of service, was it kept wetted or allowed to dry out and the age, manufacturer and condition of the DI resin? Did you get a TDS meter with teh purchase since that is the only way you can determine the condition of the membrane and DI?
I don't mean to sound negative but too often something that appears to be a smoking deal really ends up cosyting more to fix than a new system with a guarantee.
At a bare minimum you need an additional canister with a 1 micron prefilter then plumb it at the beginning so it protects the carbon block. If you don't knoe the age or condition of the carbon block you need one of those too and very likely a DI refill and a TDS meter. I would start there, disinfect the system while you have it apart to install the new filters and resin then test the tap water, RO only and final RO/DI TDS to determine the condition of the RO membrane.
It will work as is but if you have any TDS or sediment/particulates/colloidal materials in your water it won't last long without modifications. Don't put any water in your tank untiul you can test it with a TDS meter since exhausted DI resin can easily be worse that tap water since it releases weakly ionized substances like phosphates, silicates and nitrates once it is near exhaustion.
It would not be very efficient since it does not have a prefilter and depends on the carbon to act as both a prefilter and to remove chlorine and VOCs. This is a very bad way to go since it fouls or plugs the pores in the carbon block which are how it adsorbs chlorine and VOCs. Without the billions of tiny microscopic pores carbon is worthless.
A good efficient ref quality RO/DI will have a low micron prefilter which protects the carbon block then a low micron carbon block such as the Matrikx+1 0.6 micron Chlorine Guzzler, followed by a name brand RO membrane such as the Dow Filmtec 75 GPD or GE Water 100 GPD and finally the vertical refillable DI which you do seem to have.
Not knowing anything about its past life or how long it has been out of service, I hope you only paid what the housings and fittings are worth as thats all you can rely on to be good.
Did he tell you what RO membrane it had, how long it has been in and ouit of service, was it kept wetted or allowed to dry out and the age, manufacturer and condition of the DI resin? Did you get a TDS meter with teh purchase since that is the only way you can determine the condition of the membrane and DI?
I don't mean to sound negative but too often something that appears to be a smoking deal really ends up cosyting more to fix than a new system with a guarantee.
At a bare minimum you need an additional canister with a 1 micron prefilter then plumb it at the beginning so it protects the carbon block. If you don't knoe the age or condition of the carbon block you need one of those too and very likely a DI refill and a TDS meter. I would start there, disinfect the system while you have it apart to install the new filters and resin then test the tap water, RO only and final RO/DI TDS to determine the condition of the RO membrane.
It will work as is but if you have any TDS or sediment/particulates/colloidal materials in your water it won't last long without modifications. Don't put any water in your tank untiul you can test it with a TDS meter since exhausted DI resin can easily be worse that tap water since it releases weakly ionized substances like phosphates, silicates and nitrates once it is near exhaustion.
