Is this coraline?
- Thread starter Z06-Hec
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OP
OP
Z06-Hec
Valuable Member
I just upgraded my return pump from 1300gph to 2100gph, there is almost twice the flow in there... Nitrates are no higher than 20 and phosphates are by 0.....
I did increase the light intensity by a lot.
I did increase the light intensity by a lot.
VelasCorals
Valuable Member
I wouldn't panic but it is cyno. Use a turkey baster to blast it off of corals and rocks. If it gets really bad 2-3 days lights out can help your tank get over this normal part of a tank cycle faster.
Also if it was my tank I'd just siphon it out repeatedly it is a no holdfast bac mat and will turn loose w some suction. You'd be surprised how many cyano localized areas like that stop coming back if you just remove the community a few times provided there isn't big nutrient sinks somewhere else.
Cyano carry an important distinction over any other invader in reefing, they are globe travelers. Every reef tank in the world not ran in a positive pressure microbiology lab exchanges cyano with its environment, even tanks that don't have cyano expressing as a colony. They still get in, but those reefs have characters that suppress and compete with them
Owing to the character of world traveling contaminants, cyano is the one invader that can come and go in otherwise healthy tanks meaning nothing bad about the tank. Other invaders like bryopsis, dinos, invasive macros, bubble algae and most other invaders are typically required imports on substrates or in association with animals (dinos ride on fish slime costs between tanks)
We see pristine zeovit ulns systems post occasional cyano / moneran blooms amid pure water and then clearly sinked up old tanks with cruddy sandbeds post issues with them as well. Being able to take N from the air and not rely on nitrate also helps bac mats succeed
Our tanks tend to lack matched grazers.
Persistence after a month of removal is how I'd rate the quality of a cyano issue, I'd use no chemi clean although it's popular.
Cyano carry an important distinction over any other invader in reefing, they are globe travelers. Every reef tank in the world not ran in a positive pressure microbiology lab exchanges cyano with its environment, even tanks that don't have cyano expressing as a colony. They still get in, but those reefs have characters that suppress and compete with them
Owing to the character of world traveling contaminants, cyano is the one invader that can come and go in otherwise healthy tanks meaning nothing bad about the tank. Other invaders like bryopsis, dinos, invasive macros, bubble algae and most other invaders are typically required imports on substrates or in association with animals (dinos ride on fish slime costs between tanks)
We see pristine zeovit ulns systems post occasional cyano / moneran blooms amid pure water and then clearly sinked up old tanks with cruddy sandbeds post issues with them as well. Being able to take N from the air and not rely on nitrate also helps bac mats succeed
Our tanks tend to lack matched grazers.
Persistence after a month of removal is how I'd rate the quality of a cyano issue, I'd use no chemi clean although it's popular.
Return pumps don't count a flow in the tank, you need powerheads for this.
Howard1234a
Community Member
Add some powerheads inside, clean your skimmer with vinegar (bad skimming can cause this too); if that doesn't work buy chemi clean.
OP
OP
Z06-Hec
Valuable Member
now that I'm thinking about it, here a few changes made within the last 2 months...
purchased 2 Jabeo p45 wave makers, stronger than before.
changed the return pump to almost twice the flow
increased my lighting gradually
STOPPED running my UV
I already brushed off most if not all the cyano. On another note, my Golden Head sleeper gobie jumped out today, i found him on the floor...
He was the hardest worker in the tank, constantly turning the sand...
With all that said... I'm either going to continue to see cyano especially now that gobie is gone or see other things...
I may have to reconnect the UV...
Was having plumbing issues with it, small leak from the hose.
purchased 2 Jabeo p45 wave makers, stronger than before.
changed the return pump to almost twice the flow
increased my lighting gradually
STOPPED running my UV
I already brushed off most if not all the cyano. On another note, my Golden Head sleeper gobie jumped out today, i found him on the floor...
He was the hardest worker in the tank, constantly turning the sand...
With all that said... I'm either going to continue to see cyano especially now that gobie is gone or see other things...
I may have to reconnect the UV...
Was having plumbing issues with it, small leak from the hose.
Not true Sorry.
The new lights and redoing the plumbing ( stirred gunk)probably helped spur your bloom.
More than likely it will pass in a week or two if you up on your maintenance.
And here's the thing about cyano bacteria. It's was the first life form on earth. It's found everywhere. In everything. It's even found in thousand year old ice on both poles and it's still alive.
All we are doing in aquaria is reducing its population by not providing it suitable food.
Your cyano is the most common problem bacteria.
More than likely it will pass in a week or two if you up on your maintenance.
And here's the thing about cyano bacteria. It's was the first life form on earth. It's found everywhere. In everything. It's even found in thousand year old ice on both poles and it's still alive.
All we are doing in aquaria is reducing its population by not providing it suitable food.
Your cyano is the most common problem bacteria.
Again not true and an opinion.
I have an overrated return in my tank specifically to provide increased flow AND turnover.
The return blows hard giving great laminar flow and I use smaller powerheads to fight the laminar and create turbulence.
It's a technique to manipulate mass water flow.
Plus saved I saved money on spendy heads lowered heat by using smaller heads in the tank and electricity.
If you say so. Go ahead and just use a return pump from the sump, and see what you get in the tank.......Oops, theres no flow........
And you say you use powerheads, to just prove my point........
And you say you use powerheads, to just prove my point........
ss95003
Active Member
Well there you go solid proof right there I'm wrong. Why don't you just blow 10000gph through your sump and have no power heads. Hell. Why have a sump just get a 10ft skimmer with a bunch of wood air stones throw 10000 gph though that and you will be fine.
Waters
"...in perfect isolation, here behind my wall."
I am not sure were the disagreement is lol. Obviously return pumps do add water movement to the DT (I have two returns that bounce all the coral around when my Gyre is turned off) but most tanks (especially SPS dominated) require more water movement than the returns can provide. Often it is just being able to hit areas that the returns aren't hitting. Smaller tanks could easily get by without any additional powerheads in a softie tank for example.
ss95003
Active Member
The argument is upping your return pump is not a good way to add flow to your tank. One there is no need to have massive turnover rates in the sump. Second in general return pumps use more power and add more heat. I know this has changed with dc pumps. Yes in nano/ all in one tanks you can get away with just the return but I'd agrue it would be wise to add a nano power head in a corner. So if you want to increase your flow don't go buy a mag 18/24 go buy some power heads and create some random/ flow bouncing of other flow.
Wow dude.
To be clear, as I said ,I use both.
Water travels in a tank from point a to point b. Water moving from a to b is flow. I calculated my turnover on the calculator here and on other reputable websites before I bought my pump. I opted for a slightly higher turnover, and that increases the speed of my flow from a to b.
Using power heads as I said to push another source of flow against the first source creates turbulence.
My tank has been running 11 months now and is doing well.
Reducing the number and size of powerheads in my tank reduced the amount of heat generated, I have a large LED display with the temp on top of the hood.
Yes it's a balancing act but is a technique I learned by reading advanced aquarist and other scientific papers relating to flow and coral health.
Water travels in a tank from point a to point b. Water moving from a to b is flow. I calculated my turnover on the calculator here and on other reputable websites before I bought my pump. I opted for a slightly higher turnover, and that increases the speed of my flow from a to b.
Using power heads as I said to push another source of flow against the first source creates turbulence.
My tank has been running 11 months now and is doing well.
Reducing the number and size of powerheads in my tank reduced the amount of heat generated, I have a large LED display with the temp on top of the hood.
Yes it's a balancing act but is a technique I learned by reading advanced aquarist and other scientific papers relating to flow and coral health.
Actually That brings up a good question from the original problem.
Zo6 did you overrate your turnover(i.e. Too fast) making the sump and skimmer ineffective?
Have a nice day.
Zo6 did you overrate your turnover(i.e. Too fast) making the sump and skimmer ineffective?
Have a nice day.
OP
OP
Z06-Hec
Valuable Member
thats possible, the return has a controller so i could dial it down and see how that works...
1 thing i forgot to mention was i did 2 35 gal water changes back to back. So in a matter of 3 days changed out about 70 gals out of my 150.
Not sure if that could have contributed in anyway....
Either way i just did another 35 gals last night and i could turn down the return to let the water travel in the sump a bit longer.
1 thing i forgot to mention was i did 2 35 gal water changes back to back. So in a matter of 3 days changed out about 70 gals out of my 150.
Not sure if that could have contributed in anyway....
Either way i just did another 35 gals last night and i could turn down the return to let the water travel in the sump a bit longer.
