Is this coralline or something bad?

cvick2914

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Ok we have a 55 gallon with 10 gallon sump I purchased from a guy back in November. Has aqua land 42" LED blue and white lights. We have about 60 lbs of rock only bought one live rock after cycle was over. Added some fish from LFS well the next day guy calls me and says watch fish they found ich after I bought my fish . So we have QT 10 gallon and been treating fish for 3 weeks now won't put fish in DT unit next month. Been doing 20% water change every 2 weeks. My question is since fish have been out I've had a lot of red pinkish green growth I know some is green hair algae but is the other good or do I need to be treating it. Not using RODI yet getting one soon letting water sir for 3 days before it goes in my tank. Just looking for some expert help thanks for taking the time to read this posting pics.
Ph 8.3
Am 0
Ni 0
Na 5

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Cyanobacteria is classified as a photosynthetic organism with properties of both algae and bacteria. Usually referred to as red slime algae in the hobby, cyanobacteria can actually range in color from red and purple to black and even a brilliant green. Cyanobacteria benefits from aquarium lighting, uneaten fish food and poor aquarium maintenance habits. Once the slime spreads, it can quickly carpet your coral, substrate, live rock and even your aquarium glass or acrylic.

Cyanobacteria appears when high nutrients (phosphates, nitrates and silicate) are combined with certain light, temperature and water flow conditions.

The first thing you want to do is test your aquarium water. Nitrate and phosphate levels are generally elevated when cyanobacteria is present.

Perform frequent water changes using nitrate and phosphate-free saltwater to get your tank parameters back in check. A general recommend changing 10-15% of your total tank volume once per week. It is of utmost importance that the freshwater you use to mix your saltwater and top off your aquarium is also free of nitrates, phosphates and silicates.

Cyanobacteria thrives in lower flow environments. Your filtration system should be turning over 8 to 10 times your total tank volume per hour to help keep the water clean. Positioning your powerhead, even adding another, to increase the flow through problematic areas (aka "dead spots") will also help combat the problem. If your aquascape is stacked into a wall without any gaps, caves or crevices for water to circulate, you may eventually want to consider rearranging your rockwork into something more open. Routinely check your protein skimmer to ensure it is operating efficiently and clean out your collection cup at least once each week.

Old light bulbs and/or improper light spectrum can also contribute to cyanobacteria and nuisance algae growth. Take note when you replace your bulbs so you can set a reminder on your phone or calendar to change them out again in 6-18 months (excluding LEDs). Avoiding heavy warm colors, like red and yellow, may help some.

This will probably be easier if you have a controller or monitoring device, but check to see what is the average temperature of your aquarium. Stability is essential and many hobbyists have reported accelerated growth in tanks where temperatures are above 80°. If appropriate for the livestock in your tank, keeping the water temperature 76° to 78° is a small adjustment that can make a big difference.
 
Is cyano bad or good?
And water is well water but am buying RODI very soon


BAD, Cyano bacteria is bad.
If you use well water what is the TDS of that water?
Even when you buy RODI water from your LFS still test for TDS.
How to get rid of Cyano............ syphon it of the rocks with a hose and discharge, replace the water with new salt mix water, turn skimmer up and lower the nutrients in the tank.
As long your fish are in QT that shouldn't be that difficult.
What is your Po4 and No3 at on the moment?
 

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