Is this dino? (Bad microscope shots?

[Jake_the_reefer]

How are things going with this?

Usually when people get dinos with high nutrients it's due to higher light intensity with long photo periods and a lack of bacteria. What lights do you have and what are the settings? Also consider using MicroBactor 7.

It for sure could be lights as well. The major focus of the dino is on my frag rack and top of rockwork none on sand. I use a baster and blast it off and its slowly going away. Still no death to inverts

 

[Bret Brinkmann]

It's going really well actually. Light is ai prime david saxby settings.
I added a uv sterilizer before I consider nuking with dinox and it seems like its clearing even after 24 hours

Had research David Saxby settings. I would say this is the cause of the outbreak. From what gathered his settings are relatively high with a little over 12 hours on the photo period. I saw a report from another member that measured a little over 300 PAR in their tank centered and 2/3 down. That would match up close to your frag rack location I believe.

Keep in mind that David's tank is 4 ft deep and his lights are mounted higher than 8 inches. Both of which would reduce the PAR at those settings for his tank. It looks like you are running a nano tank correct? If so, then you wouldn't need, or want, nearly as high of intensity because your tank isn't as deep and I'm betting your lights are mounted much closer. A also read a few people reported they burned their corals on his settings in their smaller tanks after a few weeks, even with a 4 week long acclimation. I recommend reducing the intensity of the lights by at least 50% to start out with, based on what I read. I suspect you may need to go further, but I think this is a good example of where a PAR meter would help.

 

[Jake_the_reefer]

Had research David Saxby settings. I would say this is the cause of the outbreak. From what gathered his settings are relatively high with a little over 12 hours on the photo period. I saw a report from another member that measured a little over 300 PAR in their tank centered and 2/3 down. That would match up close to your frag rack location I believe.

Keep in mind that David's tank is 4 ft deep and his lights are mounted higher than 8 inches. Both of which would reduce the PAR at those settings for his tank. It looks like you are running a nano tank correct? If so, then you wouldn't need, or want, nearly as high of intensity because your tank isn't as deep and I'm betting your lights are mounted much closer. A also read a few people reported they burned their corals on his settings in their smaller tanks after a few weeks, even with a 4 week long acclimation. I recommend reducing the intensity of the lights by at least 50% to start out with, based on what I read. I suspect you may need to go further, but I think this is a good example of where a PAR meter would help.

Yeah my tank is 20g nano. I am currently planning on borrowing a par meter to measure the lighting for my tank. I've never had issues with bleaching or anything. What settings would you recomend then?

 

[Bret Brinkmann]

The ratios you have are going to be good as they have been proven to be successful. Once you get the PAR meter then you can set the intensity to get the right PAR in the right spots for each of your corals. Until you get meter though, I recommend dropping the intensity by 5% each day to reduce light stress untill everything is at 50% of the current setting. Corals can adapt to lower PAR better than they can to too high of PAR.

 

[Jake_the_reefer]

The ratios you have are going to be good as they have been proven to be successful. Once you get the PAR meter then you can set the intensity to get the right PAR in the right spots for each of your corals. Until you get meter though, I recommend dropping the intensity by 5% each day to reduce light stress untill everything is at 50% of the current setting. Corals can adapt to lower PAR better than they can to too high of PAR.

What's odd as well is there are med flow, low light areas with more dino than the high light med flow areas at this point. The uv sterilizer is killing most of the dino in the high light areas but my frag rack keeps getting more and more. Should I blast it off with a baster or just the the uv do its job? It is getting better as it is out of my fuge completely

 

[Bret Brinkmann]

If it's on coral, then blast it off daily at least. That will help keep it in the water column for the UV to get.