Is this Dino

[BRSBrokeMe]

Hey everyone can anyone tell me that they think this is yesterday I could see bubble all over this alga then today I don’t see any alga if you can tell what it is can you tell me what to do my tank is about 7

weeks old

 

[vetteguy53081]

Under the lighting in images, hard to tell. Take a turkey baster and blow the stuff loose. Siphon or net it up and see how quickly it returns. Dino is generally stringy and slimy looking like snot with small air bubbles. At this time , you can also check your nitrate and phosphate levels to see if theyre elevated.

 

[ScottB]

I hope you can take comfort with this reply. Whatever it is, it does not really matter. In another 7 weeks, it will be replaced by something different. At 21 weeks, yet another set of organisms will replace the prior ones.

Technically, these are called the "uglies", where the first ugly is outcompeted by the next, over and over. Just let it do it's thing. Intervene as little as possible. Just keep temperature, salinity stable, and a little bit of nutrient available and let it mature.

 

[BRSBrokeMe]

I hope you can take comfort with this reply. Whatever it is, it does not really matter. In another 7 weeks, it will be replaced by something different. At 21 weeks, yet another set of organisms will replace the prior ones.

Technically, these are called the "uglies", where the first ugly is outcompeted by the next, over and over. Just let it do it's thing. Intervene as little as possible. Just keep temperature, salinity stable, and a little bit of nutrient available and let it mature.

Thank you so I’ll just kick back let it do it’s thing
I see videos of people saying do doctor tims waste away and peroxide you would advise against that and just let it do it’s thing?

 

[Ippyroy]

To check for dinos, use a turkey baster to suck some up. Put in a jar and shake. Pour it through a coffee filter and leave it on the counter. If it is dinos it start to reform. Use a small eyedropper to suck up the dinos and put it under a microscope at 400x and you can then get an exact ID on which kind. There are several types and they are all easy to defeat, but they have very different methods. You can use a cheap microscope. Just make sure it has 400x magnification. I use mine constantly. It really helps to know what you have in order to fight it. This one will work great.

 

[ScottB]

Thank you so I’ll just kick back let it do it’s thing
I see videos of people saying do doctor tims waste away and peroxide you would advise against that and just let it do it’s thing?

I should be more clear. I like @Ippyroy suggestion to learn what it is that is growing in your tank, so that you can recognize it when/if you see it again. Like him, I use my microscope all the time. Weekly.

I would just discourage doing much about it besides learning about it. In my opinion, interventions at this stage of immaturity just prolongs the uglies phase.

Along the same lines, learning what things to test -- like alkalinity, nitrates, phosphates, salinity -- and how to properly them is another great way to gain understanding of your biome. Perfecting your water change and general husbandry process is also great. Just minimize chemical intervention as much as possible.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Dinoflagellates are protists organisms -those that do not fit within the three natural kingdoms: animalia, plantae or fungus- with ability to move with rotating movements. All dinoflagellates have the common feature of having two flagella located at right angles allowing them to perform such rotational movement which makes them easily recognizable (although some species such as the genus symbiodinium they are virtually immobile).
There are about 2.400 species which have a highly variable size ranging from 20 and 300 µm in the most common ones and up to 2 mm in the case of species such as noctiluca. In the marine aquarium species are usual smaller as symbiodinium and Amphidinium, While some like ostreopsis are large and can be seen without a microscope (with good lighting and visual acuity).
The problem arises when conditions in the aquarium break the biological balance and some dinoflagellate species spread uncontrollably, smothering the rest of the aquarium inhabitants. If the dinoflagellate species in question has the ability to produce toxins (usual in ostreopsis, gambierdiscus and prorocentrum to name a few)
The problem often arises when we try to bring cleanliness it to the limit, in order to improve its appearance and color of corals.
They tend to occur suddenly when the aquarium water reaches an extraordinary cleanliness, in which most microorganisms perishes for lack of food. With no other organisms that can stop them, this type of dinoflagellate can multiply so fast that when we realize it's late and we will find an aquarium full of brown and ochre slime suffocating fish and invertebrates. These dinoflagellates possess chloroplasts enabling them to synthesize their own food even under a minimal amount of light. Some species can form cysts called pellicles which allow them to remain in the aquarium for months although we have completely sterilized or kept in complete darkness. Once the light or the right conditions come back, they will reappear and thus problems.
Most of these dinoflagellates have a very curious behavior, typical of pathogens and parasites. With the presence of light they secrete mucus which adhere to any surface, including algae, coral and fish. They spend hours synthesising food and extending vertically in search of the light source (if we turn off the pumps in the aquarium we can see brown filaments grow towards the surface). When the light source disappears and can no longer synthesize food, it begins to diminish to none.

 

[BRSBrokeMe]

Dinoflagellates are protists organisms -those that do not fit within the three natural kingdoms: animalia, plantae or fungus- with ability to move with rotating movements. All dinoflagellates have the common feature of having two flagella located at right angles allowing them to perform such rotational movement which makes them easily recognizable (although some species such as the genus symbiodinium they are virtually immobile).
There are about 2.400 species which have a highly variable size ranging from 20 and 300 µm in the most common ones and up to 2 mm in the case of species such as noctiluca. In the marine aquarium species are usual smaller as symbiodinium and Amphidinium, While some like ostreopsis are large and can be seen without a microscope (with good lighting and visual acuity).
The problem arises when conditions in the aquarium break the biological balance and some dinoflagellate species spread uncontrollably, smothering the rest of the aquarium inhabitants. If the dinoflagellate species in question has the ability to produce toxins (usual in ostreopsis, gambierdiscus and prorocentrum to name a few)
The problem often arises when we try to bring cleanliness it to the limit, in order to improve its appearance and color of corals.
They tend to occur suddenly when the aquarium water reaches an extraordinary cleanliness, in which most microorganisms perishes for lack of food. With no other organisms that can stop them, this type of dinoflagellate can multiply so fast that when we realize it's late and we will find an aquarium full of brown and ochre slime suffocating fish and invertebrates. These dinoflagellates possess chloroplasts enabling them to synthesize their own food even under a minimal amount of light. Some species can form cysts called pellicles which allow them to remain in the aquarium for months although we have completely sterilized or kept in complete darkness. Once the light or the right conditions come back, they will reappear and thus problems.
Most of these dinoflagellates have a very curious behavior, typical of pathogens and parasites. With the presence of light they secrete mucus which adhere to any surface, including algae, coral and fish. They spend hours synthesising food and extending vertically in search of the light source (if we turn off the pumps in the aquarium we can see brown filaments grow towards the surface). When the light source disappears and can no longer synthesize food, it begins to diminish to none.

Thank you

 

[BRSBrokeMe]

I should be more clear. I like @Ippyroy suggestion to learn what it is that is growing in your tank, so that you can recognize it when/if you see it again. Like him, I use my microscope all the time. Weekly.

I would just discourage doing much about it besides learning about it. In my opinion, interventions at this stage of immaturity just prolongs the uglies phase.

Along the same lines, learning what things to test -- like alkalinity, nitrates, phosphates, salinity -- and how to properly them is another great way to gain understanding of your biome. Perfecting your water change and general husbandry process is also great. Just minimize chemical intervention as much as possible.

I like his idea to I definitely need to be learning why this is happening not just watching it happen thank you for your input I really appreciate it

 

[BRSBrokeMe]

To check for dinos, use a turkey baster to suck some up. Put in a jar and shake. Pour it through a coffee filter and leave it on the counter. If it is dinos it start to reform. Use a small eyedropper to suck up the dinos and put it under a microscope at 400x and you can then get an exact ID on which kind. There are several types and they are all easy to defeat, but they have very different methods. You can use a cheap microscope. Just make sure it has 400x magnification. I use mine constantly. It really helps to know what you have in order to fight it. This one will work great.
I am going to go on Amazon and get that microscope I appreciate the advice I definitely want to know more about the chemistry of the tanks process

Thanks again

 

[BRSBrokeMe]

I am going to go on Amazon and get that microscope I appreciate the advice I definitely want to know more about the chemistry of the tanks process

Thanks again

 

[BRSBrokeMe]

Thanks again

Wow don’t know how I added to your post then thanked myself lol

 

[ScottB]

I like his idea to I definitely need to be learning why this is happening not just watching it happen thank you for your input I really appreciate it

Just know that it uglies are normal, expected, and not something to sweat over or change. Keep the basics stable and let her run.

 

[BRSBrokeMe]

To check for dinos, use a turkey baster to suck some up. Put in a jar and shake. Pour it through a coffee filter and leave it on the counter. If it is dinos it start to reform. Use a small eyedropper to suck up the dinos and put it under a microscope at 400x and you can then get an exact ID on which kind. There are several types and they are all easy to defeat, but they have very different methods. You can use a cheap microscope. Just make sure it has 400x magnification. I use mine constantly. It really helps to know what you have in order to fight it. This one will work great.

Thank you I am going to get that and really need to know how all this works thank you for your advice

 

[ScottB]

Wow don’t know how I added to your post then thanked myself lol

Thanking yourself is being grateful, right? Nothing wrong with that where I was raised.