Is this Duncan alive?
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New Member
Oh that's good news!
Currently the tank has:
Nitrates at 5ppm (has come down significantly after a number of 50% water changes + resin filtration)
Alk 6.5
Phophates 0.05ppm (has come down significantly after a number of 50% water changes + resin filtration + almost daily phoscorrex dosing)
salinity 34 ppt.
The duncan is positioned in a medium flow area (65 gallon tank with an ai nero 5 on the opposite wall from it. Lighting is an illumagic blaze X which i have been running quite low (30%) mainly blues and purple as i've been struggling with out of control algae.
Currently the tank has:
Nitrates at 5ppm (has come down significantly after a number of 50% water changes + resin filtration)
Alk 6.5
Phophates 0.05ppm (has come down significantly after a number of 50% water changes + resin filtration + almost daily phoscorrex dosing)
salinity 34 ppt.
The duncan is positioned in a medium flow area (65 gallon tank with an ai nero 5 on the opposite wall from it. Lighting is an illumagic blaze X which i have been running quite low (30%) mainly blues and purple as i've been struggling with out of control algae.
fishmonkey
Active Member
what do you use to test salinity and temp?Oh that's good news!
Currently the tank has:
Nitrates at 5ppm (has come down significantly after a number of 50% water changes + resin filtration)
Alk 6.5
Phophates 0.05ppm (has come down significantly after a number of 50% water changes + resin filtration + almost daily phoscorrex dosing)
salinity 34 ppt.
The duncan is positioned in a medium flow area (65 gallon tank with an ai nero 5 on the opposite wall from it. Lighting is an illumagic blaze X which i have been running quite low (30%) mainly blues and purple as i've been struggling with out of control algae.
fishmonkey
Active Member
i would consider getting a good digital salinity checker. i use the hanna one but there are plenty of good ones
fishmonkey
Active Member
your alk is a bit low but i dont think that would cause a huge problem liek that. i think salinity and temp are the main causes of things going bad really fast but i dono it could be anything
Mr. Mojo Rising
7500 Club Member
IMO there is not enough rock in that tank, you will want to get a lot more. It also might be the picture angle, but seems like the water surface is still. Is there a skimmer on this tank? If you dont have a skimmer, then you might want to point a powerhead at the water surface and create some turbulence, corals need oxygen too or they will die.
anthonygf
Valuable Member
My Duncan has been closed up for more than a year and is still alive. Last month it started to come out a little at a time for a few weeks, and then went back in. There is something wrong with the water they don't like and can't figure it out. Been trying for so long and now have given up.
That goes for many corals, they may look dead and be closed for a while even a year and then comes back to life. This happened to one of my flower pots, It was missing for more than a year. I found it under a rock in like a cave with closed up polyps, I placed it on a rock middle height and just blossomed.
That goes for many corals, they may look dead and be closed for a while even a year and then comes back to life. This happened to one of my flower pots, It was missing for more than a year. I found it under a rock in like a cave with closed up polyps, I placed it on a rock middle height and just blossomed.
Pkunk35
Valuable Member
Oh that's good news!
Currently the tank has:
Nitrates at 5ppm (has come down significantly after a number of 50% water changes + resin filtration)
Alk 6.5
Phophates 0.05ppm (has come down significantly after a number of 50% water changes + resin filtration + almost daily phoscorrex dosing)
salinity 34 ppt.
The duncan is positioned in a medium flow area (65 gallon tank with an ai nero 5 on the opposite wall from it. Lighting is an illumagic blaze X which i have been running quite low (30%) mainly blues and purple as i've been struggling with out of control algae.
did you recently change your lighting scheme quickly or often? I find with LED quick changes can cause distress for some coral.
have you always had those parameters and was it happy before (at 34ppt, 5 nitrate, 0.05 phos)
have you dipped it for pests?
Uncle99
10K Club member
50% water changes are too large, destabilizing your chemistry.
Retracted more than a week, that indicates some type of environment problem, they cannot conduct photosynthetic process like that.
IMM, Alk at 6.5dkh is way, way low.
These are in 11.5dkh and PH of 8.3.
They never close except dark.
Retracted more than a week, that indicates some type of environment problem, they cannot conduct photosynthetic process like that.
IMM, Alk at 6.5dkh is way, way low.
These are in 11.5dkh and PH of 8.3.
They never close except dark.
I have the Hanna one also but use a good refractometer as well. The Hanna is alway. 02 low so I compensate for that. A refractometer really is sufficient IMO and reliable and cheap
fishmonkey
Active Member
I have a refractometer and found the Hanna to be more reliable. Calibration is wonky and annoying. Some say use di water some say use calibration fluid. Make sure it’s clean with no bubbles.
But that makes me worried if it actually comes out .02 low. I might have to do an icp or something to confirm if that’s true. How often do you calibrate the Hanna?
