Yes I can elevate them. It is glued to a rock now cos my turbo snails can knock it down.
Algae is a long story. I didn't have any real ugly stage cos I added pods, phyto and Chaeto as soon as cycling was done. My nitrates and phosphates have been 0 ever since. I added some cleanup crew which introduced some GHA. It didn't really take off. So I dosed neonitro and neophos so there will be some algae[also wanted it for my tang] I brought them under control 2 weeks after with microbacter clean. And later on 2 more times I did the same cos I was also afraid if I will get dino due to 0 nitrates and phosphates. What you see now in the video is from the third time. It is going away now. Should be gone in a week. The tang didn't survive shipping.
Yes I will not do neophos or neonitro again. I had another thread about it and figured if dino happens it happens.
I think[IMO] I feed a lot. Reefroids 3 days a week, frozen food every other day and 3 types of pellets every day. Almost a quart of phyto every day.
Mine does the same thing at night and i was told my LFS not to worry about it as they were just closing up at night. I have had it for about 2 weeks now. Here what it look like 3 night ago right when the lights were turning off.
Mine does the same thing at night and i was told my LFS not to worry about it as they were just closing up at night. I have had it for about 2 weeks now. Here what it look like 3 night ago right when the lights were turning off.
Yes I will not do neophos or neonitro again. I had another thread about it and figured if dino happens it happens.
I think[IMO] I feed a lot. Reefroids 3 days a week, frozen food every other day and 3 types of pellets every day. Almost a quart of phyto every day.
They do this only at lights out. My concern was that missing flesh band and if it will grow back and if it will, what should I do to speed it up. From reading here, I read many suggestion to give amino acids. I am already doing that. Is there anything else I can do to speed up the healing?
They do this only at lights out. My concern was that missing flesh band and if it will grow back and if it will, what should I do to speed it up. From reading here, I read many suggestion to give amino acids. I am already doing that. Is there anything else I can do to speed up the healing?
They do this only at lights out. My concern was that missing flesh band and if it will grow back and if it will, what should I do to speed it up. From reading here, I read many suggestion to give amino acids. I am already doing that. Is there anything else I can do to speed up the healing?
They won't grow it back but as they grow, they will stop receeding. So it will look longer in 6 months or years time as long as you maintain healthy water for them.
Good luck with it.
Tank is 6 months old.
Flow is similar to the video except it changes throughout the day cos I have two gyre x330s on both ends with OGC cycle. But most of the time, it looks like that in the video.
Lighting - it will eventually get 120 par but now it is on acclimation mode for 28 days which started at 40%
Parameters
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Phosphate 0
Ph 8.2 - 8.00
Salinity 1.025
Alkalinity 8.54
Calcium 431ppm
Magnesium 1343ppm
Temp 79.1
Not having nitrates and phosphates is going to kill it. I know they say don't chase numbers, but some numbers are alarming, such as both of these values being 0. You say you get algae? That's normal and shows you have (to some extent of course) a healthy system. The reason you don't have algae with both of these values being 0 is, because you're starving them, while also starving your corals. I made the very same mistake to "battle algae". Corals also consist of algae within their tissue. What kind of lighting do you have, how long does it burn for and what are the color specs?
I agree, your LFS should not be selling you those, unless they are rescue corals for like $25. It looks like STN (slow tissue necrosis). Not sure you can do anything but wait at this point. Maybe an iodine bath. Really hope you get to report good news down the road.
Not having nitrates and phosphates is going to kill it. I know they say don't chase numbers, but some numbers are alarming, such as both of these values being 0. You say you get algae? That's normal and shows you have (to some extent of course) a healthy system. The reason you don't have algae with both of these values being 0 is, because you're starving them, while also starving your corals. I made the very same mistake to "battle algae". Corals also consist of algae within their tissue. What kind of lighting do you have, how long does it burn for and what are the color specs?
I actually tried to grow that algae for a tang and to not get dinos. So when I stopped dosing nitrate and Phos, it went away on its own. The reason I say they are not truly 0 is cos I have a refugium with chaeto and it is growing well. I also have zoas that are growing really well. So I dont think it is true 0. It just dont show up on tests. Even when I was dosing, it rarely showed up on test kits. I used both Hanna and redsea. Only battle with algae is CUC and manual removal. This time I didnt even do that. CUC took care of it.
I have 2 kessil A360x for lighting. I increased the photo period since I got the torch by an hour to 7 hours. with 2 hour ramp up and 2 hour ramp down. Color specs, I think 0 green or red, there is 70 UV, and rest is all mostly blue. I have a PAR meter so I usually dial in based on the coral req and acclimate them over 2 to 4 weeks.
I agree, your LFS should not be selling you those, unless they are rescue corals for like $25. It looks like STN (slow tissue necrosis). Not sure you can do anything but wait at this point. Maybe an iodine bath. Really hope you get to report good news down the road.
I will update this thread down the road. I hope it survives too. They look beautiful. I actually did not get it from LFS. I bought it from a well known seller online. They are a gold sponsor and partner sponsor on r2r. They have good feedback too. I will contact them and let them know atleast. There is a possibility that they didnt see it cos you can see this only after lights out. During the day, they are extended well and you cant see the skeleton. I will let them know of this and see what their opinion is. thanks.
I agree, your LFS should not be selling you those, unless they are rescue corals for like $25. It looks like STN (slow tissue necrosis). Not sure you can do anything but wait at this point. Maybe an iodine bath. Really hope you get to report good news down the road.
I actually tried to grow that algae for a tang and to not get dinos. So when I stopped dosing nitrate and Phos, it went away on its own. The reason I say they are not truly 0 is cos I have a refugium with chaeto and it is growing well. I also have zoas that are growing really well. So I dont think it is true 0. It just dont show up on tests. Even when I was dosing, it rarely showed up on test kits. I used both Hanna and redsea. Only battle with algae is CUC and manual removal. This time I didnt even do that. CUC took care of it.
I have 2 kessil A360x for lighting. I increased the photo period since I got the torch by an hour to 7 hours. with 2 hour ramp up and 2 hour ramp down. Color specs, I think 0 green or red, there is 70 UV, and rest is all mostly blue. I have a PAR meter so I usually dial in based on the coral req and acclimate them over 2 to 4 weeks.
Need more light.
Quality and quantity. 150~200 par for 8 hours plus your 2 hour ramp up/down.
I think you said after some time it will get 120 par? So no matter how you look at it, it's not enough.
The equator gets 12 hours of sun per day 24/7. More par than you have for more time.
This site says 125-200
Your one stop shop for everything Saltwater Reef tank related! Discover a world of vibrant aquacultured corals and premium aquarium supplies. Explore live rare corals for sale and cutting-edge equipment to elevate your saltwater aquarium . Our expert guidance and resources empower enthusiasts
Euphyllia have been a fixture in reef aquariums seemingly since the hobby began. Torch corals have long tentacles tipped with a ball. This large polyp stony coral (LPS) is one of the most popular stony corals in the hobby because if the way it sways in the current. It is very similar in growth...
The Electric Green Coral is a great beginner coral and will sway back and forth to the currents in the aquarium. Torch Corals are a favorite of many because of the sense of motion they bring to a reef tank.
Need more light.
Quality and quantity. 150~200 par for 8 hours plus your 2 hour ramp up/down.
I think you said after some time it will get 120 par? So no matter how you look at it, it's not enough.
The equator gets 12 hours of sun per day 24/7. More par than you have for more time.
This site says 125-200
Your one stop shop for everything Saltwater Reef tank related! Discover a world of vibrant aquacultured corals and premium aquarium supplies. Explore live rare corals for sale and cutting-edge equipment to elevate your saltwater aquarium . Our expert guidance and resources empower enthusiasts
Euphyllia have been a fixture in reef aquariums seemingly since the hobby began. Torch corals have long tentacles tipped with a ball. This large polyp stony coral (LPS) is one of the most popular stony corals in the hobby because if the way it sways in the current. It is very similar in growth...
The Electric Green Coral is a great beginner coral and will sway back and forth to the currents in the aquarium. Torch Corals are a favorite of many because of the sense of motion they bring to a reef tank.
Yes that can be done. According to the place I got it from called for medium par and their range is 100 to 150. So I dialed it to 120. At 80% intensity, I can get upto 170 par at this location. I havent tried what will it be at full intensity. I will probably increase the intensity now but acclimate over the same time. My established Zoas might need some time to get to that par. I am also planning to add 2 Reefbrite XHO x360 onto the kessils to get rid of some shadows. So at that time, I could increase the par further.
Need more light.
Quality and quantity. 150~200 par for 8 hours plus your 2 hour ramp up/down.
I think you said after some time it will get 120 par? So no matter how you look at it, it's not enough.
The equator gets 12 hours of sun per day 24/7. More par than you have for more time.
This site says 125-200
Your one stop shop for everything Saltwater Reef tank related! Discover a world of vibrant aquacultured corals and premium aquarium supplies. Explore live rare corals for sale and cutting-edge equipment to elevate your saltwater aquarium . Our expert guidance and resources empower enthusiasts
Euphyllia have been a fixture in reef aquariums seemingly since the hobby began. Torch corals have long tentacles tipped with a ball. This large polyp stony coral (LPS) is one of the most popular stony corals in the hobby because if the way it sways in the current. It is very similar in growth...
The Electric Green Coral is a great beginner coral and will sway back and forth to the currents in the aquarium. Torch Corals are a favorite of many because of the sense of motion they bring to a reef tank.
Yes that can be done. According to the place I got it from called for medium par and their range is 100 to 150. So I dialed it to 120. At 80% intensity, I can get upto 180 par at this location. I havent tried what will it be at full intensity. I will probably increase the intensity now but acclimate over the same time. My established Zoas might need some time to get to that par. I am also planning to add 2 Reefbrite XHO x360 onto the kessils to get rid of some shadows. So at that time, I could increase the par further.
Yes that can be done. According to the place I got it from called for medium par and their range is 100 to 150. So I dialed it to 120. At 80% intensity, I can get upto 180 par at this location. I havent tried what will it be at full intensity. I will probably increase the intensity now but acclimate over the same time. My established Zoas might need some time to get to that par. I am also planning to add 2 Reefbrite XHO x360 onto the kessils to get rid of some shadows. So at that time, I could increase the par further.
I have hammers at about 200 par. This was measured with an apogee. My parwise says 170ish. Parwise always reads lower because they only measure usable par.
I have hammers at about 200 par. This was measured with an apogee. My parwise says 170ish. Parwise always reads lower because they only measure usable par.
