Is This Plumbing good?

ThatPhillyReefer

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Hi, I just plumbed a 110-gallon used custom made tank at the age of 13. I want to know is this plumbing good and will it work and help water move throughout the whole system? I ask can you please write your thoughts.
Happy Reefing
 
Kind of confused by what you have going on. It looks like the drain line is split and one side shoots up into the air in a kind of diy sprinkler system? Can't tell where the other end goes. You can do this but I feel like your salt creep, and evaporation will go way up and you may end up with water slowly dripping everywhere. I'd recommend an emergency or second drain line if possible, it's not strictly necessary but can give peace of mind and make it easier to get silent flow. The pump and return line look ok you might want a vibration pad, foam mat under the pump later again for noise reduction. I'd recommend a valve between the return union and the tank so the pump can be easily removed for cleaning.
It looks like this hasent been glued up as I can see all the writing on the pvc still indicative that no cleaner or primer was used. I teach basic plumbing skills as a water plant operator please ensure you use these products along with glue once you glue up as your much more likely to get a good water tight bond.
 
Oh and sorry I forgot, you definitely want a valve on that main drain line otherwise you'll have a really loud gurgle and flushing toilet sound as water level goes up and then vaccuumes down creating an inconsistent flow of trickles and surges potentially splashing water all over the place... That's an important part
 
Kind of confused by what you have going on. It looks like the drain line is split and one side shoots up into the air in a kind of diy sprinkler system? Can't tell where the other end goes. You can do this but I feel like your salt creep, and evaporation will go way up and you may end up with water slowly dripping everywhere. I'd recommend an emergency or second drain line if possible, it's not strictly necessary but can give peace of mind and make it easier to get silent flow. The pump and return line look ok you might want a vibration pad, foam mat under the pump later again for noise reduction. I'd recommend a valve between the return union and the tank so the pump can be easily removed for cleaning.
It looks like this hasent been glued up as I can see all the writing on the pvc still indicative that no cleaner or primer was used. I teach basic plumbing skills as a water plant operator please ensure you use these products along with glue once you glue up as your much more likely to get a good water tight bond.
The drain line splits and goes into a duel sprinkler system that came with the tank. And yes I haven't glued anything yet because I didn't want to make permanent changes until I got feed back.
 
Oh and sorry I forgot, you definitely want a valve on that main drain line otherwise you'll have a really loud gurgle and flushing toilet sound as water level goes up and then vaccuumes down creating an inconsistent flow of trickles and surges potentially splashing water all over the place... That's an important part
I really don't understand what you mean by the valve
 
Hi, I just plumbed a 110-gallon used custom made tank at the age of 13. I want to know is this plumbing good and will it work and help water move throughout the whole system? I ask can you please write your thoughts.
Happy Reefing
Looks good. As long as no leaks- should work
 
I really don't understand what you mean by the valve

Use one of these on the main drain lines coming into your sump.

You could user a "ball valve" as they are slightly cheaper but the gate valve is much easier to tune the water coming into the sump.
 
The center drain is my main, the big red handle is the gate valve I'd recommend.

IMG_20200816_230129.jpg
 
A valve where water comes from the tank before the line splits so you can control flow out of the tank. A gate valve is good for this but a ball valve could be used it's just harder to get set exact.
Okay thank you so much, this is my first time having a reef ready tank.
 
hi,i watched over and over,agree valve should be on top of union at pump,cannot see well enough where overflow second line goes into first bar in sump +1 on gate on overflow,point spray bars down ,not to be debbie downer ,but did you completely fill sump for leaks,that i believe is a pro clear is notorious for seams leaking/failing,would rather tell you now than later not a bad idea to go over all 4 corners and bottom inside with weld on ,better safe than sorry :)

WP_20200514_20_22_31_Pro.jpg WP_20200514_20_22_53_Pro.jpg
 
Didn’t notice holes in bar are up- yep has to spray downwards
I figured too late on valves and unless leaking, unlike a glass tank, I would not apply overseal as ive seen this actually heat existing weld and made tank seep ( like the saying why tune a car if running good)
 

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