Is this Uronema on my clownfish?

[RedTheReefer]

Hello. I've had my 2 clownfish in a HT for past couple of days dosong GC/FURAN-2/KANAPLEX.

I am still trying to get an ID on what this actually is.

Could this be Uronema? Here are some photos of the female. Both clownfish have similar grayed areas around 2-3 areas on the fish. Male has a tiny red sore but not large at all on white stripe area under the mouth.

 

[Tahoe61]

Bump for an expert, but I do not see uremia.

Pretty clowns.

 

[RedTheReefer]

Thank you. I am praying its not uronema.

 

[javisaman]

If you are concerned it maybe worthwhile to dip the fish in Ruby Reef Rally and transfer to a new sterile tank.

 

[RedTheReefer]

So, after 5 days of treatment, I don't think the condition has not improved. Here are some updated photos. Anyone got any idea what this is?

 

[dbq5anlxj]

So, after 5 days of treatment, I don't think the condition has not improved. Here are some updated photos. Anyone got any idea what this is?

How's the fish doing now? Thanks

 

[RedTheReefer]

So after 14 days of treatment, I saw a major improvement and decided to put them back into the DT. Its been another 14 days since introducing them back into DT and symptoms have returned and are more worse in my opinion. I have been feeding them medicated food with Metorplex+Kanaplex. I still see no difference in behavior patterns other than the male now itching its sore on rock/coral (I just noticed today).

Is this just a really bad bacterial infection that they can't shake? I've been looking at a lot of uronema pictures and it doesn't look like it to me. There are no open sores.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Uronema is much quicker to kill than this timeline would allow.

How are you preparing/dosing the medicated food?

For future reference - I always wait a minimum of two weeks after symptoms have resolved before moving a fish to the DT

Jay

 

[RedTheReefer]

Uronema is much quicker to kill than this timeline would allow.

How are you preparing/dosing the medicated food?

For future reference - I always wait a minimum of two weeks after symptoms have resolved before moving a fish to the DT

Jay

Funny you say that because I just saw you posted that on another thread.

I prepare it with 1 scoop of Kanaplex + Metroplex dissolved in some garlic guard then add 1 tbsp of pellets with 1 Scoop of focus.

I guess that is good news if its not uronema but the itching has me concerned. I do have Ruby Reef Rally on hand and was considering giving them a 90 min bath just now or should I take them out and restart the whole HT process again?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Looks like it could be a mild case of the Lymphocystis virus which Having optimum water quality is key and the answer to healing. You could add melafix which is great for skin issues and see if blotch on skin improves.

 

[RedTheReefer]

Looks like it could be a mild case of the Lymphocystis virus which Having optimum water quality is key and the answer to healing. You could add melafix which is great for skin issues and see if blotch on skin improves.

I considered that it was water quality. I tested for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and PH. All were at zero with maybe PH being a little low? It read at 7.8-8.0 on the API test kit.

My tank is roughly 1 year and 3 months old. All my corals look super good so I was kind of ruling out water quality. I do one 10-15% water change every 3-4 weeks and I did just beat dinos a few months ago if that means anything. I am still super stumped here...

My clowns did show some of the classic white nodules that is assocated with Lymphocystis one day on fins after reintroduction but they quickly went away overnight.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I considered that it was water quality. I tested for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and PH. All were at zero with maybe PH being a little low? It read at 7.8-8.0 on the API test kit.

My tank is roughly 1 year and 3 months old. All my corals look super good so I was kind of ruling out water quality. I do one 10-15% water change every 3-4 weeks and I did just beat dinos a few months ago if that means anything. I am still super stumped here...

What type of water are you using. . .RO or Tap and if RO, when is the last time filters changed and what is your TDS at ?

 

[Mattiejay6]

I am in no way a fish expert, however this blotchyness I have seen predominately on Bali Aquarich clowns and used to treat with Acriflavine with much success.

 

[RedTheReefer]

What type of water are you using. . .RO or Tap and if RO, when is the last time filters changed and what is your TDS at ?

I used RODI water from the fish store. I just tested it and it runs at 23 PPM. Yikes.
This really makes me want to buy a RODI unit now if this is my cause.

I have another bucket from the same store and it reads at 7-9 PPM. I have also used distilled water from time to time which reads at 0 PPM.

 

[RedTheReefer]

I am in no way a fish expert, however this blotchyness I have seen predominately on Bali Aquarich clowns and used to treat with Acriflavine with much success.

Acriflavine is in Ruby Reef Rally. I might do the bath then.

 

[Mattiejay6]

Acriflavine is in Ruby Reef Rally. I might do the bath then.

I never used that product, or know if the concentration is the same. I usually buy from NPS.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ruby Rally very good, and yes, may work on this also. Product a little pricey but effective.

I used RODI water from the fish store. I just tested it and it runs at 23 PPM. Yikes.
This really makes me want to buy a RODI unit now if this is my cause.

I have another bucket from the same store and it reads at 7-9 PPM. I have also used distilled water from time to time which reads at 0 PPM.

This may very well be your trigger as i said previously. . . something with water quality. Jay is correct that Uronema would have acted quicker and displayed many signs

 

[RedTheReefer]

Ruby Rally very good, and yes, may work on this also. Product a little pricey but effective.

This may very well be your trigger as i said previously. . . something with water quality. Jay is correct that Uronema would have acted quicker and displayed many signs

Okay. I think I'll give them the 90 minute bath now with the water I have because its already mixed. Do you think that is okay even if it has high TDS or should I wait until I get 0 TDS water on hand, perform the bath and a large water change? I can go to Walmart and get their distilled water which reads 0 but would want my salt mixed for at least 24 hours.

I'll purchase an RODI unit right now because I am really sick of my LFS. This is the final straw for me.

What TDS range is acceptable?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Okay. I think I'll give them the 90 minute bath now with the water I have because its already mixed. Do you think that is okay even if it has high TDS or should I wait until I get 0 TDS water on hand, perform the bath and a large water change? I can go to Walmart and get their distilled water which reads 0 but would want my salt mixed for at least 24 hours.

I'll purchase an RODI unit right now because I am really sick of my LFS. This is the final straw for me.

What TDS range is acceptable?

0 -.5 is best range. You mixed water already- Might as well use it,.

 

[RedTheReefer]

Ok.

I did a Ruby Reef Rally bath and that provided no improvement on there condition in my opinion. I noticed no difference.

The problem still persists. I simply don't know whats going on. I have been using 0 TDS water since with bi-weekly ~20% water changes. How can it be water quality if my corals all look healthy?

I also refreshed my Chemi-pure blue to improve water quality further.

Clownfish are starting to flash/scratch now on their first stripe area or "helmet" stripe. Female lost one of her belly fins completely to what I think was lymph... I hope it grows back. White stringy poop is still present so after seeing these symptoms, I decided to try medicating the food with General Cure for the third time two weeks ago.

Two weeks has passed and I barely see an improvement. Female skin looks unhealthy and still flashing by their helmet stripe. Red sores only on that area still and has been consistent on the male clown since late July. No wear else on the body. Female belly fin still gone but it looks to be growing back - hard to tell.

Are they flashing/scratching because of a bacterial infection? I am kind of ruling out flukes here because I did a QT with General Cure dose late July in addition to Kanaplex/Metro/Furan-2.

They have been eating normally this entire time - no change in eating behaviors. I have even started to provide them with a varied diet of frozen mysis/pellets/seaweed pellet and have copepods on the way as another food source. What else can I do here to improve health?