Only ammonia is what you want at zero. In lieu of chemicals you can simply extend water change periods and feed a little more to livestock. Zero numbers often create chemical imbalances for the tank. Even at 5 nitrates and .04 phos will keep you out of zero ranges and susceptibility to other issues that can occur
I suppose the best solution is to keep dosing and manual removal. I have lots of cuc that do a pretty good job on the rock but not so much with the gravel. Some have suggested urchins may help but I've avoided them thus far due to their destructive behavior.
Strombus snails work for me on keeping substrate clean.
Aragalive sand 80#, CaribSea Liferock 100#. I've been dosing phosphate daily for four months, sometimes as much as 80mls per day. Currently I'm dosing 30mls of Dibasic Sodium phosphate just to maintain a measurable level. Nitrate is more stable but will approach zero occasionally necessitating a dose of sodium nitrate. I've been using so much of the stuff I mix my own to save $$$. Never heard of Strombus snails, I've got pretty much every other kind including 10 Mexican turbos.
Flux RX will get rid of GHA
I did this and sure enough it took care of the gha but I ended up with cyano everywhere.
Guess that's what happens when you use an azole antibiotic normally used to treat fungal infections in animals, and chuck it into an aquarium.
Yep sometime ignorance is bliss other times it's a curse
I would agree but it is a magic bullet if you just want the algae gone. It is up to you to then deal with the repercussions of that whether it be cyano or dino's.
