Isaac's CADE 1500s2/ Peninsula Reef Build

[Isaac Alves]

Pretty slick!

I actually meant on the mixing station itself. I have one on the pump for mixing saltwater. It's crazy how much crud gets pulled out. My saltwater container has stayed remarkably clean ever since I set up the filter.

Ahhh...I get you. Very interesting. I've not had any crud build up in the barrels the last few years. But I'll look into it for sure. Can you send me a pic of what you've done so I can get a clearer idea of the setup?

Thanks!

 

[sphinx15]

Ahhh...I get you. Very interesting. I've not had any crud build up in the barrels the last few years. But I'll look into it for sure. Can you send me a pic of what you've done so I can get a clearer idea of the setup?

Thanks!

My plumbing is a little bit wonky because my tanks are stacked instead of side by side but should be the same idea. When mixing saltwater, water flows from the SW tank (top) to the pump (red) through the sediment filter (green) then back to the tank.

I'm just using BRS's 1st stage rodi filter element. The housing is from Amazon; I wanted one with 3/4" fittings.

 

[Isaac Alves]

Finally started the lighting build.


Figured I’d at least get my the main supports mounted and lagged into the wall along with getting the main vertical beams attached. This also gave me an opportunity to realize I didn’t order a piece.

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I used 5.5” grip screws to mount the 1515 T-slot beam along the stud. These flat headed lag screws from Lowes worked great.

My only wish was that I had asked 8020 to machine end taps to these. But I tapped these myself using a 5/16” tap I picked up at Lowes. I used 1” long 5/16-18 Button head screws to dig deep into the T-slot. The fit is snug and sturdy -- -as well as plumb.

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The other thing I learned was to triple check and fully understand what parts need to be assembled first before mounting the vertical rails. I ended up having to unscrew my main support beam three times.

Below the locking mechanism and grip handles are shown installed. As is the unibearing assembling to lift the beam up and down.

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I also got the right angle pivot assemblies in place.

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This is where I need to stop for the weekend. I realized I didn’t order a 2 hole straight flat plate to fasten the Aquatic Life hybrid to the lower pivot assembly. Ugh…one piece. Lol.


Oh well.

 

[sphinx15]

Finally started the lighting build.


Figured I’d at least get my the main supports mounted and lagged into the wall along with getting the main vertical beams attached. This also gave me an opportunity to realize I didn’t order a piece.

----

I used 5.5” grip screws to mount the 1515 T-slot beam along the stud. These flat headed lag screws from Lowes worked great.

My only wish was that I had asked 8020 to machine end taps to these. But I tapped these myself using a 5/16” tap I picked up at Lowes. I used 1” long 5/16-18 Button head screws to dig deep into the T-slot. The fit is snug and sturdy -- -as well as plumb.

---

The other thing I learned was to triple check and fully understand what parts need to be assembled first before mounting the vertical rails. I ended up having to unscrew my main support beam three times.

Below the locking mechanism and grip handles are shown installed. As is the unibearing assembling to lift the beam up and down.

---
I also got the right angle pivot assemblies in place.

---

This is where I need to stop for the weekend. I realized I didn’t order a 2 hole straight flat plate to fasten the Aquatic Life hybrid to the lower pivot assembly. Ugh…one piece. Lol.


Oh well.

T-slot is like plumbing, always takes 3 trips to the parts store!

Looks really good so far though, should be really slick when it's done.

 

[Isaac Alves]

Startung up again on a 100° Saturday — today is hot. Perfect for indoor projects.

—-

Got my remaining pieces from 8020.net that I forgot to order my first time around.

this time I had them thread the key 15 bars for me since they seem to be key load carriers.

Starting off with applying some silicone grease to hinge joints.

 

[Isaac Alves]

I feel more confident with 8020’s threading machinery and capabilities.

 

[Isaac Alves]

lining up the small bar is easy on my own. The long bar is going to be difficult I think.

 

[Isaac Alves]

Reviewing the SketchUp file again to double check joints…there are two attachment points that need to be created.

I think I should assemble the Aquatic Life Fixture at this point— to make sure I can drill the holes I need in the fixture itself.

 

[Isaac Alves]

Aquatic Life 48” Gen 3


Looks like the fixture parts are all here. And no physical damage

 

[CasperOe]

Thanks for sharing. and congratulations!! My Cade S2 1200 will arrive on Monday, hopefully everything will be allright- fingers crossed!

 

[Isaac Alves]

Just an FYI about the Aquatic Life fixture bracket screws.

Not obvious to me but these packs of screws are for mounting the central LED lights.

The bracket assembly screws are hidden inside the end cap assembly…

…ok, now onward.

 

[Isaac Alves]

Finally finished.
I think.

I was able to raise the frame so I could work under it. Admittedly I am a tad nervous —- my concern is that the Aquatic Life fixture metal strap that connects the sides together, and is also what I tapped into to attach the extrusion parts, is very flimsy. I think with all the parts screwed in for the frame it should be fine but I wish the Aquatic Life frame used higher quality aluminum.

This attachment point below is critical. I wish I had a better understanding on how to improve the Aquatic Life frame but the 1515 parts are bolted to it securely and out should probably be ok.

The other point of attachment is on the back and the same metal strap is here too.

 

[Isaac Alves]

Putting in the G6 XR30s.

I used the hanging nuts rust came with the XR30s instead on the bolts from the Aquatic Life. It just looked nicer and were black

 

[Isaac Alves]

The 1515 channels allow me to hide the light cables.

some black rubber grommets seem to be working okay to hold the cords in place…

 

[Isaac Alves]

These G6 XR30 bricks are hefty blocks….

 

[Isaac Alves]

Alright. I think the light stand is done. Love that I can stand under it by raising it and swinging it out to replace bulbs.

… now, clean up and back to finalizing the RODI water Station.

 

[Isaac Alves]

RODI containers are plumbed and filling up now to check for leaks.

I’m using my same RODI system:

 

[Isaac Alves]

I ran the RODI system to fill the four containers just above the main connection points. And unfortunately there were two points of leaking, both seem bad:

One union is leaking at the pvc glue point, unfortunately. And I need to figure out how to seal an already glued joint -- hopefully it's possible.

Second is a worse leak and one that aggravated me last night. The Skimz Leopard AC return pump that I decided to use as the mixing pump is leaking -- AND NOT AT THE UNION. It's actually leaking where the grey union intake section meets this white plate:

I found a thread that appears to have been a similar issue with the same pump from R2R user @Feet4Fish on his thread here:

Leaking Skimz Leopard Pump

So last night I just turned on this pump for the first time. All plumbed lines work fine and no leaks. However, the is a pretty frequent drip from the motor block itself. These pumps use the Askoll motor blocks. Any ideas on why this would happen. I am contacting BRS today (which is where I...

www.reef2reef.com

After work I'll take the pump out, open it up and check the O-ring. Seems plausible that the o-ring would cause a leak here.

I'll post pics afterward.

 

[Isaac Alves]

I think this video from FlexPVC's youtube channel from 2014 is the way to fix the leak on the already joined PVC.... putting it here for my own reference:


Cheers!

 

[sphinx15]

I think this video from FlexPVC's youtube channel from 2014 is the way to fix the leak on the already joined PVC.... putting it here for my own reference:


Cheers!

I always thought if you mess up pvc you're kinda hosed (pun very much intended ). I'll be interested to see if you have any luck with this.