ISO Zoa tips

[Reeves' Reef]

Simple request for reference material on zoanthid care if that will do the trick. I have decided to start keeping some zoanthids and I figured there is too much experience in here to not ask. I will outline some of my beliefs to start off and then I am sure I can be adjusted from there.

As I understand it zoanthids need light and flow similar to SPS. I am not as clear on specific nutrient needs. My plan is to keep zoas in my SPS tank. I have a LPS tank or is the SPS tank the better choice? The difference being light intensity between the tanks; SPS are under Reef Breeders Photon 48 LEDs and the LPS are under T5 supplemented with a small LED set.

 

[littlebigreef]

You'll find zoas vary greatly in their tolerance for flow and light. Generally speaking form follows function. Sps prefer nutrient poor, high-flow, strong light areas. Zoas come from nutrient rich, mixed light and flow areas. To that end some zoa growers dose nitrate and phosphates. These conditions are more favorable to your LPS tank, though, I have seen excellent mixed zoa / sps reefs.

Since Zoas prefer 'dirty' water you'll find more success with a mature aquarium. Newer aquariums just don't have the necessary microfauna/bacteria/etc established. Zoas are also susceptible to being overgrown by cyano, hair and other algaes during the break in period.

Zoas benefit from regular vitamin c dosing. Bonus; it makes your protein skimmer a little more efficient.

Zoas are vulnerable to alk swings. Dosing a 2 part isn't necessary for zoas but it doesn't hurt either. Regular dosing of lugol's is incredibly beneficial.

I'd suggest starting with some nice but inexpensive strains. If you're having success then try any of the Hornets. The reason is this: Zoas vary greatly in their durability and it helps to build up experience before paying a premium for a high end piece. Most Hornets tend to be a little more challenging, keep those successfully and you'll have the confidence to take off the training wheels.

You'll want to get comfortable preforming hydrogen peroxide, lugol's and furan 2 dips. One of the reasons I love Zoas is that there's often ample opportunity to save a struggling frag. If you're actively collecting new strains you'll need these skills and know when to apply them.

Zoas benefit from regular feedings. Reef roids is specifically designed for z&p's. Any similar sized coral food will do, I've used freeze dryed cyclopeez etc. Some paly's might grab brine or mysis now and again. However, Rod's food is the physically largest food you'd probably want to target feed.

This is just my opinion and if anyone challenges my beliefs I'll come at them like a rabid monkey with a broken beer bottle. But seriously, lotta different ways to achieve your goals. Lots of people having success keeping new and classic strains alike. Zoas are colorful, forgiving and more collectible than than comic books or action figures.

 

[vortexreef]

Great advice above. I dose nitrate and phosphates for my zoas, and have found it to help with color and polyp extension. Thats not to say you have does those to be successful though

 

[OhDumb]

Everybody is different, but this is my key to success...
Keep PO4 between .1-.03 and Nitrate 10-20, higher than that and you'll have other issues and lower seems to not promote growth. I learned this during a Dino breakout and was running both near zero. Once I brought them up not only did it help combat Dinos, but I saw an explosion in zoas.

It may be anecdotal, but I feel like my zoas do better when I dose Lugol's weekly.

I also feed my fish pretty heavily and use a turkey baster to blow the cloudy food water on the zoas. I usually feed Reef Roids twice a week as well.

The last thing is all zoas are not the same. Some like flow and some don't. Some like high light and others don't. You'll just have to experiment with where they end up looking the happiest. Then leave them alone.

 

[Nathan Milender]

Everybody is different, but this is my key to success...
Keep PO4 between .1-.03 and Nitrate 10-20, higher than that and you'll have other issues and lower seems to not promote growth. I learned this during a Dino breakout and was running both near zero. Once I brought them up not only did it help combat Dinos, but I saw an explosion in zoas.

It may be anecdotal, but I feel like my zoas do better when I dose Lugol's weekly.

I also feed my fish pretty heavily and use a turkey baster to blow the cloudy food water on the zoas. I usually feed Reef Roids twice a week as well.

The last thing is all zoas are not the same. Some like flow and some don't. Some like high light and others don't. You'll just have to experiment with where they end up looking the happiest. Then leave them alone.

When you dose iodine what is your target iodine level?

 

[OhDumb]

I don't measure it. I use the recommended dosage on the Kent's Lugol's bottle, which for me is a half drop (add a drop to a cup of tank water and only add half). I started doing this after reading several articles and threads in the Chemistry forum and figured I would try it out (none prove it helps or is a detriment unless you overdose). Like I said before, it might be anecdotal but I have seen good results. I also say this with pretty good confidence as I have a mature tank coming up on 2 yrs old that all I do is water changes. I don't dose anything else and stopping dosage would be my first step in solving any issues. Iodine is rapidly depleted, so a few large water changes and I could check that box.

 

[Nathan Milender]

I don't measure it. I use the recommended dosage on the Kent's Lugol's bottle, which for me is a half drop (add a drop to a cup of tank water and only add half). I started doing this after reading several articles and threads in the Chemistry forum and figured I would try it out (none prove it helps or is a detriment unless you overdose). Like I said before, it might be anecdotal but I have seen good results. I also say this with pretty good confidence as I have a mature tank coming up on 2 yrs old that all I do is water changes. I don't dose anything else and stopping dosage would be my first step in solving any issues. Iodine is rapidly depleted, so a few large water changes and I could check that box.

Thanks