Issue with Zoas opening up - newer tank

[Quietman]

I've had my zoas in my display now for a while (some up to two weeks) and not seeing many polyps opening and some frags have none opening. I'm gradually moving them over from my QT (temporarily stopped now as they look healthier in QT). They were dipped before going into QT 5 weeks ago and have seen no pests other than some minor algae issues which the snails manage just fine. All were open in QT just fine.

They're on bottom on display and the light (Radion XR-15 G4 Pro) is at 50%. The water in QT was from display so chemistry matched. Water parameters are solid and stable. pH 7.9, nitrate 3.0 ppm, phosphate <.03 ppm, temp 79F, Alk 8.0.

I do have a diatom bloom in progress, but have been doing WC to keep under control and regularly brush off rocks. Do not see any brown on the zoas. I have palys as well but they seem to be opening ok but not great.

My birds nest, duncan, pavona, cyphastrea are all doing very well with good color, growth, and new heads on duncan and they have been in tank for 6 weeks.

Any thoughts? Need any additional information?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Diatoms are likely present although you cant see them. Kill the white lights and reduce blue to 20%. Dose 1ml of Hydrogen Peroxide per 10 gallons at night . Also add bacteria supplement such as Bacter7.
DO NOT feed coral food such as reef roids during this short treatment which feed the dino.
Do this for 4-5 nights and see how the zoa are looking each day

 

[Quietman]

Diatoms are likely present although you cant see them. Kill the white lights and reduce blue to 20%. Dose 1ml of Hydrogen Peroxide per 10 gallons at night . Also add bacteria supplement such as Bacter7.
DO NOT feed coral food such as reef roids during this short treatment which feed the dino.
Do this for 4-5 nights and see how the zoa are looking each day

I've read that before, so thanks. I didn't want to just dive into something like that without some confirmation. I've mostly heard that diatoms are just something to live with until tank matures - 6 months. I'm at 5 now with good stable parameters for months, so thinking more action like you've outlined is probably justified.

 

[The Aquatic Arsenal]

I am wondering if they were getti g the same amount of light in your DT as in your QT?

 

[Quietman]

I am wondering if they were getti g the same amount of light in your DT as in your QT?

I wondered/wonder about that as well...don't have a par meter and don't plan on getting one (or renting one for $50)...well at least yet. The SPS (even though easy care SPS)/LPS are doing well and would expect they'd be more sensitive to light changes. I know the human eye can't tell squat about PAR or intensity so relying on par levels of device data elsewhere (BRS vids) for settings and all but the zoas seem to confirm they're ok. Hardly scientific I grant you.

I did put the zoas in mid and low level heights and all have same reaction. I also moved a blasto at the same as the zoas in slightly higher area, it's doing well and is opened up.

Was worried about flow too, so adjusted/redirected that as well to no effect.

 

[The Aquatic Arsenal]

Different zoas require different PAR. Some zoas like PAR over 300. I would just find their happy spot. When you move them, you may have to leave them in the spot for a few days, unless you notice an immediate negative affect.

 

[Quietman]

Good point, didn't realize some zoas require that much par. I will try putting a frag or two at the top of the rock work (6" higher) for a few days. Probably less stressful than H2O2 treatment which I may end up doing anyway to stop diatoms but at least then I know what's what.

 

[blasterman]

More blame the lighting baloney.

Imagine swimming naked in a pool full of razor blades. Think certain things would pucker up? That's what it's like for soft corals when there are diatom blooms.

Too strong lighting will get zoos and palys to 'bowl' towards the light and sometimes close early in the light cycle, but not close entirely.

Diatom and algae blooms are also natural biological occurances with a new tank and using chemical warfare to alter them is a bad idea. Let them work themselves through and try to use as much healthy live rock as possible when you start. The only reliable means I've found to nuke bad diatom blooms that doesn't cause other issue is a UV filter. Once a tank is established and you stop using tap water (full of silicates) the diatoms will go away. Fresh salt mixes and new tanks otherwise contribute to this problem because there's no established competing biology to suppress the diatoms.

I've set up countless z & p gardens that look incredible. One common thread is I've never had one stable and doesn't randomly go through some nuisance bloom of some sort until the tank is 3-4 months old at least, and until then zoos and palys will be randomly unhappy. Oddly, SPS often aren't bothered by diatom blooms and such and I have birdsnests and acros happily growing in a 2 week old frag tank. If I put some of my healthy paly colonies in there from their 6 month old garden tank they will immediately close up for days

 

[ScottR]

I have to agree that using chemicals against diatoms is a horrible idea. Especially in a new tank. You don’t want to play with parameter swings that early on. Diatoms have a short life cycle and to be honest, they’re not as bad as people make them out to be. Once they use up the silicates in the sand, they disappear. Takes maybe 3 months.

 

[Quietman]

More blame the lighting baloney.

Imagine swimming naked in a pool full of razor blades. Think certain things would pucker up? That's what it's like for soft corals when there are diatom blooms.

Too strong lighting will get zoos and palys to 'bowl' towards the light and sometimes close early in the light cycle, but not close entirely.

Diatom and algae blooms are also natural biological occurances with a new tank and using chemical warfare to alter them is a bad idea. Let them work themselves through and try to use as much healthy live rock as possible when you start. The only reliable means I've found to nuke bad diatom blooms that doesn't cause other issue is a UV filter. Once a tank is established and you stop using tap water (full of silicates) the diatoms will go away. Fresh salt mixes and new tanks otherwise contribute to this problem because there's no established competing biology to suppress the diatoms.

I've set up countless z & p gardens that look incredible. One common thread is I've never had one stable and doesn't randomly go through some nuisance bloom of some sort until the tank is 3-4 months old at least, and until then zoos and palys will be randomly unhappy. Oddly, SPS often aren't bothered by diatom blooms and such and I have birdsnests and acros happily growing in a 2 week old frag tank. If I put some of my healthy paly colonies in there from their 6 month old garden tank they will immediately close up for days

Never used tap water...RODI and have tested for silicates in and out with none detectable.

Don't think I'm getting UV. Seems like your advice is to wait it out mostly. Which is valid...Ive heard up to 6 months.