James’s 29g Nano Build

[James_O]

Are you dosing any two part or anything for cal/alk?

No, not currently. I was thinking about getting the 2 part from BRS, but then I thought I really don’t need it right now, because I only have 2 SPS and 3 LPS.

Maybe I should?

—-

I’m just burdened by limited funds. I want to get a HOB skimmer, HOB reefugium, and more. But I’m limited on money.

Just test kits need to be first?

 

[fishguy242]

salifert,any opinions @F i s h y ?

 

[James_O]

Test kits before the chemi pur. I didn't know you didn't have any kits.

I have calcium, nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, pH, and high pH. Nothing else.

 

[Goaway]

Just test kits need to be first?

Yes, never dose what you aren't testing for. One lady was dosing kalk + soda ash trying to raise ph. Her trumpets were decaying. Could be a guy, I would have to find the old thread.
Don't try to force magic numbers. But work with what your tank likes. That's difficult to explain without knowing your numbers.

 

[Goaway]

I have calcium, nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, pH, and high pH. Nothing else.

I use seachems phosphate test, it's pretty readable and the fluid they add in tells you if the kit is working.

 

[F i s h y]

salifert,any opinions @F i s h y ?

I use salifert for nitrate, calcium, and magnesium.
Hanna for salinity, PH, alk, and phosphates

 

[F i s h y]

Personal opinion. For new reefers trying to learn. Test kits are as important as the lights, filters, and salt you use. As @Mibu Said, once you find what your tank likes, you will learn the signs for when a certain nutrient or element is off and instinctively know how to fix. But until you are seasoned... testing is the way to keep from losing all that coral you have.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure...

 

[fishguy242]

James, your phos,alk,nitrate ,are the most important for you at this point.

 

[F i s h y]

James, your phos,alk,nitrate ,are the most important for you at this point.

Agree

 

[MaxTremors]

Ok, I will get the test kits ASAP. Should I get those over the chemi-pure elite?

And I also won’t be getting any more corals until I have the test kits.

I just need to figure out what brand to get: Salifert or Red Sea?

I would get Salifert for Alk, and Red Sea for Phos, and Nitrate. For calcium, honestly I would probably get API (calcium your really just need ballpark number, IMO), but if you want slightly better get Salifert. If you want to spring for the Hanna checkers, they’re worth it (get the HR nitrate), and they’re probably cheaper in the long run because the reagents are cheaper than new test kits, but the upfront cost is more.

 

[James_O]

Ok, thanks for the advice guys!

If I need the test kits ASAP, I won't be getting Hanna, just because those are too expensive. I'll be getting either red sea or salifert.

For calcium, honestly I would probably get API (calcium your really just need ballpark number, IMO), but if you want slightly better get Salifert

Oh, I already have Salifert calcium, sorry if I didn't mention that before.

James, your phos,alk,nitrate ,are the most important for you at this point.

Gotcha, I'll try to get phos, alk, and a good nitrate soon.

 

[James_O]

Would this be a good purchase?

I do already have the salifert calcium, and I know that you guys suggested Red Sea for some tests, but this seems like a good bundle?

 

[F i s h y]

The test kits we recommended were from our experiences... it is a good deal... but accuracy and ease of use are questionable...

 

[James_O]

Well, it'll be a hard decision.

 

[Goaway]

Would this be a good purchase?

I do already have the salifert calcium, and I know that you guys suggested Red Sea for some tests, but this seems like a good bundle?

it doesn't show for me.

 

[Goaway]

i would put your money into the nitrate and phosphate kits. Water changes 10-20% per week. Until you can get the rest. The thing is, we test our salt mix as well. So not to crash our tank.

 

[MaxTremors]

Would this be a good purchase?

I do already have the salifert calcium, and I know that you guys suggested Red Sea for some tests, but this seems like a good bundle?

I think that would be perfect. There are a couple that I prefer a different brand, but overall Salifert are accurate and easy to use. You could certainly do worse. The only one of those I really don’t like is the Phosphate, and only because the resolution isn’t great (ie the first color is 0.03 and then the next is 0.1, then 0.25 and so on up to 3.0), but I think for now it’s a start (let’s not forget that these are things you’ll eventually use up and have to replace, so it’s not like you’re married to whatever you choose). If you can tell your phosphates are just below or above 0.03, that’s good enough. If I were you, I’d get this, and then as you run out of each one (because some you’ll use more than other, for example I test Alk every other day or so and everything else once a week), slowly replace them with Hanna testers or kits that fit what you’re looking for once you have a better idea of how your tank runs.

edit: a lot of people recommend Red Sea for phosphate (or Hanna), but a cheaper alternative that is just as good, with the same resolution is Tropic Marin (It’s like $20 vs $36), it uses a colorimeter the same as the Red Sea (although it’s cardboard instead of plastic). I usually use one or the other, usually depending on if the Tropic Marin is in stock (BRS has it).

 

[James_O]

I had a complete power failure for who knows how long last night.

That means that my lighting schedule was completed erased, and I JUST noticed it right now. That means the tank has been on a jacked up lighting schedule ALL day long. Pretty mad right now.

I tried my best to set it back to what I remember it being at. It’s a long and slow process, because the light is so old. No convenience of Bluetooth with this antique.

 

[James_O]

I’m also going to try to move the torch.

So I had the golden goose zoas in the front the whole time I’ve had them. They hadn’t really opened up at all and were sort of meh. I then tried to put them on the rock that the big colony is on, but my giant turbo snail knocked them off.

Now they test in between the rock structure, where there is less flow and more light. I don’t want to move them, because they look really good! (Horrible photo, sorry)

Considering moving the torch there because that one side that’s being subjected to the flow is still always shrunk, and I want this bad boy fully extended.

I realize that you normally shouldn’t move a torch/hammer after adding it to the tank, but this is a good reason?

 

[Goaway]

You don't want the torch to touch anything. They can tear easily. So, it's a complicated situation. My aussie is extremely healthy. I have chopped off mass amounts of tentacles and was sure it was going to die. It lived. For a long while my tuxedo urchin somehow moved it around, it has survived. Only with in this last month have I been able to keep it in one place. It has been difficult.

TLDR: If it's healthy, moving it wont cause much issue. Make sure it doesn't rub against anything.