Thanks. It averages 265 par across the whole tank measured at 25 points. 240 par being the low and 315 par being the high. I do believe that shadowing of the bases is/will becoming more of an issue. I may start to look at options to address this in the near future.
Haha, maybe it's the small tank that makes the corals look larger! Thanks for the compliment Nick, I recognize you from another particular Facebook group.
I use a CO2 Scrubber. For a long time I struggled with even hitting 7.8 at the highest part of the day. CO2 runs high in this office environment during the week, so all week my PH was low and then it would raise slightly on the weekends. I believe PH is important for growth, I saw a huge improvement in growth once I started using the CO2 scrubber. However, it did not effect my colors, in fact I think my colors were better when the PH was low (could have been due to a number of factors). With all of this said, I would never recommend chasing PH with an additive or booster. I would rather have low PH and slower growth than deal with the problems those additives could bring.
I'm actually a little concerned with how high it gets during the day. I'm considering using a solenoid controlled by my Apex to bypass the CO2 scrubber when the PH gets above 8.4. However, I'm leery to mess with things and make them more complicated than it needs to be.
Here are the test kits I use and have on hand. I have also updated the original post with this info. Let me know your thoughts or questions.
Test Kits
Alkalinity
Hanna Instruments HI772 (Primary)
Tropic Marin Basic KH Test Kit (Backup)
Calcium
Red Sea Calcium Pro
Magnesium
Red Sea Magnesium Pro
Nitrate
Red Sea Nitrate Pro (Primary)
Nyos Nitrate (Backup)
Phosphate
Hanna Instruments HI736 (Primary)
Red Sea Phosphate Pro (Backup)
Potassium
Salifert Potassium Reef Test
PH
Neptune Apex PH Probe (Primary)
Salifert PH (Backup Low-Range)
API High Range PH (Backup High Range)
Salinity
Neptune Apex Salinity Probe (Primary, yes it works)
Hanna Instruments HI98319 Marine Salinity Tester (Primary)
Milwaukee MA887 Digital Seawater Refractometer (Backup)
Bulk Reef Supply Refractometer (Backup)
Temp
Neptune Apex Temp Probe (Primary)
Hanna Instruments HI98509 Checktemp Digital Thermometer (Backup)
Iodine
Salifert Iodine (Primary)
Red Sea Iodine Pro (Backup)
ICP Mail Order Kits
ATI (Primary)
Triton (Backup)
Coral Vue ICP-Analysis (Backup)
While not mentioned in the original post update, there are a few kits I have used that I would not recomend or use again (probably). These include the Red Sea KH Alkalinity Pro, Red Sea Potassium, and Red Sea Iodine. These kits always produced inconsistent results for me even when testing multiple times back to back in the same sitting (which I do for all new test kits I get). With that said, I am a big fan of all of my primary kits listed and most of the backup kits listed.
I have also grown really fond of ATI for ICP testing. They were the first to offer a prepaid return which made it very convenient to drop into the outgoing mail at the office and they also test your RODI water. As I use bottled distilled water, the later has been very important. Not all brands of distilled water are equal and I have found some that are not clean. WB Mason's Blizzard brand and Walmart's Great Value brand have always tested clean through multiple tests each and I do my best to use them exclusively now. ATI ICP also closely matches my favorite test kits above (not all ICP tests do). I feel this is important because results can vary greatly between multiple ICP tests taken at the same time and sent to multiple companies at the same time. The fact that ATI's values of major elements match closely with my other test kits helps build confidence that the elements I cannot test for with a kit are also reported accurately. Lastly, ATI makes adjustments and corrections easy to do and follow with their recommendations section of their reports (so does Triton).