Just a few questions..

So far on phosphates none just tons of reading and it doesnt help that im the kinda guy that can read something and then totally forget what i just read.. But as far as a 10 gallon goes how many fish could i get away with having? I really want 2 fish..
There is a lot of information out there. The more you read, the better it stick. Ha he when I first started I felt like I was studying for a test anytime I researched a topic, now I enjoy it. Reading magazine, Coral Magazine is a good one, really helped me get into the topics.

Anyway, 10 gallons is a difficult size... I don't know if a clown would be happy in a 10 and I don't know if if your swissguard would bully a firefish. I know my firefish was a delicate little flower and shes gone now because of it :(. All fish have different temperaments, so it's really a gamble in the end. Another thing to think about is that more fish = bigger bioload. If you were struggling with nigh nutrients before, you definitely would be after adding another source of it. Personally, I'd wait until the tank matures a bit then add another one.

Side note, I see swissguards are semi-aggressive so now you may run into the problem if adding an extremely shy fish to a small tank with a possibly aggressive fish that has probably already claimed the whole tank his. Again, no way to know until it happens, just a little food for thought.
 
There is a lot of information out there. The more you read, the better it stick. Ha he when I first started I felt like I was studying for a test anytime I researched a topic, now I enjoy it. Reading magazine, Coral Magazine is a good one, really helped me get into the topics.

Anyway, 10 gallons is a difficult size... I don't know if a clown would be happy in a 10 and I don't know if if your swissguard would bully a firefish. I know my firefish was a delicate little flower and shes gone now because of it :(. All fish have different temperaments, so it's really a gamble in the end. Another thing to think about is that more fish = bigger bioload. If you were struggling with nigh nutrients before, you definitely would be after adding another source of it. Personally, I'd wait until the tank matures a bit then add another one.

Side note, I see swissguards are semi-aggressive so now you may run into the problem if adding an extremely shy fish to a small tank with a possibly aggressive fish that has probably already claimed the whole tank his. Again, no way to know until it happens, just a little food for thought.
Whats funny is the temperment of this fish is extreamly shy... All he does is hide in all his cabe systems. It took three weeks for him to just come out from the rocks to feed and thats even barley into the open. Hes still a small fry so if i add another fish i may try to get one a bit bigger then him. My main concern is if the tank can handle this. But even so i am postponing adding a new fish for a while as there are a few more things i wanna tweak and balance in the tank before i start taking new additions that way itll be less stressfull for everyone. But far as the swales go i "read" that they are accutally the calmer of the basselets compared to the royal grama. But i wont truly know till i decide to add a partner for him.
 
As far as my tank goes i took out the phosband and added a phosphate filter sponge witch i believe will help keep the phosphates down but not wipe them all out. The next thing im going to be doing while watching the tank is adjusting my lighting and finding out what the tank likes and needs.
 
Whats funny is the temperment of this fish is extreamly shy... All he does is hide in all his cabe systems. It took three weeks for him to just come out from the rocks to feed and thats even barley into the open. Hes still a small fry so if i add another fish i may try to get one a bit bigger then him. My main concern is if the tank can handle this. But even so i am postponing adding a new fish for a while as there are a few more things i wanna tweak and balance in the tank before i start taking new additions that way itll be less stressfull for everyone. But far as the swales go i "read" that they are accutally the calmer of the basselets compared to the royal grama. But i wont truly know till i decide to add a partner for him.
Well hopefully everything works out! I'm definitely looking forward to updates. Hopefully that sponge will work out for you.
 
i took out the phosband and added a phosphate filter sponge witch i believe will help keep the phosphates down but not wipe them all out.

Good for now. Growing corals is the way you really want to deal with PO4 though. :)

The next thing im going to be doing while watching the tank is adjusting my lighting and finding out what the tank likes and needs.

Corals are all very adaptable. If you're going to go tweaking, keep in mind that tweaking is stressful for them.

Use a light meter, and and make your tweaks SMALL (around 2000 lux, not a lot more) and space them out by at least a month...two would be better....so you can see the full effects. It'll take up to that long.

Lower light levels can sometimes be considered better though, so don't go raising or lowering your lights "just because".

IF you don't have a light meter, BTW, get at least a hand-held lux meter....one like the basic "LX-1010B" that I use only costs about $15, delivered, so having one is almost a no-brainer. :)

As long as you're giving your corals anywhere between 10,000 and 50,000 lux, they're likely fine.

100,000 lux is like direct sun at noon in the summer in the tropics....levels that high can be pretty stressful to most corals we keep.

Check out the Light section on my blog too. :)
 
Good for now. Growing corals is the way you really want to deal with PO4 though. :)



Corals are all very adaptable. If you're going to go tweaking, keep in mind that tweaking is stressful for them.

Use a light meter, and and make your tweaks SMALL (around 2000 lux, not a lot more) and space them out by at least a month...two would be better....so you can see the full effects. It'll take up to that long.

Lower light levels can sometimes be considered better though, so don't go raising or lowering your lights "just because".

IF you don't have a light meter, BTW, get at least a hand-held lux meter....one like the basic "LX-1010B" that I use only costs about $15, delivered, so having one is almost a no-brainer. :)

As long as you're giving your corals anywhere between 10,000 and 50,000 lux, they're likely fine.

100,000 lux is like direct sun at noon in the summer in the tropics....levels that high can be pretty stressful to most corals we keep.

Check out the Light section on my blog too. :)
Awesome thank you. I just noticed the other day that sunlight is acctually hitting thw glass of my aquarium through a window so my first tweak may be keeping the blinds shut and seeing how the tank reacts.
 
Awesome thank you. I just noticed the other day that sunlight is acctually hitting thw glass of my aquarium through a window so my first tweak may be keeping the blinds shut and seeing how the tank reacts.
Its fine bro. IMO, dont start chasing your tail.
 
Lol allright. Thank you guys and everyone for your advice. I have my homework with reading cut out for me now.
Yea man, it a bit overwhelming at first.
It just because there are so many ways to do it. You'll find yours.
 
Its definetly alittle more challenging then freshwater tanks but i feel like its already more rewarding.
Eh, its kinda not harder in a way.
IMO, its what folks make of it. True, advanced species coral and inverts are tougher. But overall, if you keep good salinity and water changes and light. your ok. Its just like planting a garden really.
 
Eh, its kinda not harder in a way.
IMO, its what folks make of it. True, advanced species coral and inverts are tougher. But overall, if you keep good salinity and water changes and light. your ok. Its just like planting a garden really.
Talking about salinity you just trivvered another question. For my ATO i have two sensors a min and max. I have them on the return side in the back of my AIO. How far apart should i space the sensors? Since its a 10 gallon aquarium water evaporates pretty quick. So obviously the closer they are the more the pump will run but the less the salinity will change.
 
How far apart should i space the sensors?
Uh, I dunno. Honestly not familiar with that one.
I would guess though the total volume is pretty minimal in the effect on your salinity. Ie its actually only a one or two cups of water at a time rather than a half gallon.
 
Uh, I dunno. Honestly not familiar with that one.
I would guess though the total volume is pretty minimal in the effect on your salinity. Ie its actually only a one or two cups of water at a time rather than a half gallon.
Hmm.. Alright.. Well thanks!
 
So quick update.. After taking the ohosband out and puting in a diferent phosphate sponge my zoas seem to be alot more happy. They are open as big and flat as they can and dont look like they are wilting g anymore. Yay! Sorry for picture quality and blues but they seem alot happier to me now.

1495835049145169852782.jpg
 
For my ATO i have two sensors a min and max. I have them on the return side in the back of my AIO. How far apart should i space the sensors?

Is the max the fill line and min is the trigger point to engage the ATO? Or is max an emergency shutoff level in case the system sticks "ON"?
 
Is the max the fill line and min is the trigger point to engage the ATO? Or is max an emergency shutoff level in case the system sticks "ON"?
Point to engage i dont think it has a fail safe like that witch kinda bums me out.
 
I have always run a single-sensor ATO. My reservoir is small enough (or my sump large enough) that my sump can accommodate it. No worries. ;)

I'd have your sensors as close together as you can to minimize variability in sump level.
 
I have always run a single-sensor ATO. My reservoir is small enough (or my sump large enough) that my sump can accommodate it. No worries. ;)

I'd have your sensors as close together as you can to minimize variability in sump level.
That's what i was thinking about.. What ATO system do you run?
 
An Ultralife Float Switch that I got used. I've had it for 8-10 years...and it might be another 10 years older from the prior owner, but I can't tell for sure. :)
 

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