Just bought a RODI unit

[ScubaFish802]

My PSI generally reads around ~60 and my ‘100 gpd’ brs system takes around 45-1hr to fill a 5 gal bucket. If that helps at all lol

(make sure the flush valve isn’t open as well!)

 

[ying yang]

RO-50MP Pumped 4-Stage Reverse Osmosis 50GPD (185 Litres) Fish & Aquarium Water Filter System with DI Resin Stage

RO-50MP 4 stage 50GPD reverse osmosis water filter system including a pump, colour-change DI resin stage designed for aquariums, but is also suitable for pharmaceuticals & plant propagation.

www.vyair.com

This is unit I got but think was like £ 130 but got inline tds meter and spare membrane,resin,sediment,and a dual carbon/ chloride cartridge as I get clorimines in water down road from you in liverpool ( providing you Manchester England ^_^ )

 

[ying yang]

Buy from amazon instead of manufacturer and get it for £ 129 so £ 20 saving which is completely mad that more expensive to buy from manufacturer ha ha

 

[laezur]

I guess you got a combi boiler ?
So that pressure reading on pressure gauge is the pressure inside your central heating circuit ,which is a closed system ( as when gas engineers Install a system they put a cleanser in and then run system then flush system then add an inhibitor to protect system ) so hot water and central heating water never mix,as strong chemicals in the cleanser and inhibitor.
So if that 1 bar you reading on front your combi boiler,just disregard that as that is different than your mains pressure,when people in this thread asking what's your pressure, they mean your incoming cold mains pressure .
My 25 litre container takes avout 1.5-2 hours to fill from my 50gpd rodi unit with booster pump.
I'm a plumbing and heating engineer but my experience on rodi units not so much,fitted a few under sink units and owned one rodi unit myself which I just plumbed in under my sink ( you could do same very easily as cold mains there and waste there for your sink. And no need soldering skills as can use compression fittings or even pushfit fittings. Compressing fittings just need 2 adjustable spanners/ pump pliers and push fit do exactly that as push into fit them then tighten nut by hand .

But from what you saying and video I first thought have you got the flush valve open so getting drip out the product water and good stream out the waste water.

But I think I seen you make another thread mentioning you in a rented apartment? If so what floor you on ? As higher the water got to travel, it loses pressure,flow stays same but pressure drops ( unless its pumped up ) but something to bear in mind,you can get a pressure gauge cheap enough ( guessing you in Manchester England) from somewhere possibly like b and q or tool station to fit onto your rodi tubing and see the pressure you got on your cold main,then if it's lower that recommended then a booster pump be a good investment.

I've got a vyair rodi with booster pump and wasn't that expensive and been great for me.will see if can link it,not saying you should buy another as I'm guessing you juat bought this unit,but if ever buy another then look Into vyair

Thank you for such a detailed reply. I tried reading up on water pressure, couldn’t find anything regarding mains pressure and how to read it. Yes it’s a combi boiler. So things may not be as bad as they seem! I’ll see if I can get my hands on a pressure gauge and yes

I am in a rented house, not apartment, so everything is on the first floor as normal. I might have to ask my landlady about messing with the pipes, if I wanted to fit it under the sink.

Youre the second person to mention a flush valve, I’ll have a look and see if I can figure that out - nothing in the manual.

 

[laezur]

My PSI generally reads around ~60 and my ‘100 gpd’ brs system takes around 45-1hr to fill a 5 gal bucket. If that helps at all lol

(make sure the flush valve isn’t open as well!)

A few people are mentioning this flush valve so just wondering if you can point it out to me in the video I provided? I can’t find anything and the manual mentions nothing

 

[ScubaFish802]

A few people are mentioning this flush valve so just wondering if you can point it out to me in the video I provided? I can’t find anything and the manual mentions nothing

I did not see one in the video, it's possible there is not one pre-installed.. but from your video the amount of water coming out each end does seem pretty in line with what I would have expected.
My unit at '100gpd' puts out a steady drip like yours is in the video and a stream of waste water.

 

[laezur]

I did not see one in the video, it's possible there is not one pre-installed.. but from your video the amount of water coming out each end does seem pretty in line with what I would have expected.
My unit at '100gpd' puts out a steady drip like yours is in the video and a stream of waste water.

I’ve been running for 4 hours and have less than half a 25 litre Jerry filled. I have however rationalised the wastage a little bit by assuming over a period of about 8 hours that small stream of waste would maybe make up about a bath full of water. So I’ll just take a shower one day after work instead of a bath hahaha

 

[Woodyman]

I’ve been running for 4 hours and have less than half a 25 litre Jerry filled. I have however rationalised the wastage a little bit by assuming over a period of about 8 hours that small stream of waste would maybe make up about a bath full of water. So I’ll just take a shower one day after work instead of a bath hahaha

Did you ever quantify the amount being produced and rejected within a set time (say 30 seconds, or a minute?)

 

[laezur]

Did you ever quantify the amount being produced and rejected within a set time (say 30 seconds, or a minute?)

No sir, I didn’t. It’s something I’ll look at when I get a bit of daylight tomorrow - for now I’ll just leave it running until I go to bed. I would honestly estimate as you said about 6/7 cups of waste per one cup of pure

 

[ying yang]

Maybe say what make and model your rodi unit is or a link to it on a website where can buy one then others can have a look at it and see if can see a flush valve or they could see if can download manual or something like this

 

[laezur]

Maybe say what make and model your rodi unit is or a link to it on a website where can buy one then others can have a look at it and see if can see a flush valve or they could see if can download manual or something like this

Sorry it’s this one: https://www.finerfilters.co.uk/fine...ICKA3Uzmq5vIMgYKfP8L1fV8JmmkFpvBoC7hAQAvD_BwE

fairly cheap but I read decent things.

 

[Woodyman]

Sorry it’s this one: https://www.finerfilters.co.uk/fine...ICKA3Uzmq5vIMgYKfP8L1fV8JmmkFpvBoC7hAQAvD_BwE

fairly cheap but I read decent things.

So circled would be your flow restrictor.

I can't tell from the online photos but is there any valve around that section of tubing? I imagine it might be the black piece at the top, but I can't be sure from the image.

 

[ROB2005]

For discussion sake, I’ve always wanted to know for those who use a booster pump , do you place the feed line shutoff solenoid valve before the first sediment filter or after it? I ask because I’m wonder if placing it after the sediment filter will keep sediment from piling up inside it and hinder its ability to properly open and close.

 

[laezur]

So circled would be your flow restrictor.

I can't tell from the online photos but is there any valve around that section of tubing? I imagine it might be the black piece at the top, but I can't be sure from the image.

The black piece at the top is a stopper, gotta pull that out.

Weirdly enough, that IS the model I bought, but the flow restrictor you pointed out is not the same, it’s just one piece of plastic. It rotates all together, but doesn’t do anything.. it just turns lol.

I’ll see if I can get in touch with them in the morning and ask them some questions

 

[Woodyman]

The black piece at the top is a stopper, gotta pull that out.

Weirdly enough, that IS the model I bought, but the flow restrictor you pointed out is not the same, it’s just one piece of plastic. It rotates all together, but doesn’t do anything.. it just turns lol.

I’ll see if I can get in touch with them in the morning and ask them some questions

They can be setup in multiple ways. Typically though right around the restrictor is a valve. That is the flush valve everyone is referring to. Below is just one of the possible setups.

 

[ying yang]

Sorry it’s this one: https://www.finerfilters.co.uk/fine...ICKA3Uzmq5vIMgYKfP8L1fV8JmmkFpvBoC7hAQAvD_BwE

fairly cheap but I read decent things.

Ok great thanks ,can get instruction manual off the link you posted and just read through it and it hasn't got a flush valve on your model,just got a flow restriction on waste line.
It says to do a first flush by not inserting membrane and di resin and turn on water and run system for 10- 15 minutes to flush out any carbon fines etc ( also good idea to run carbon block under cold tap until black stops,it helps to do it In white bucket ,but good to rinse the carbon block so carbon fines do t clog up the membrane .
Then it says turn off water and insert membrane and di resin ( well doesnt say about di resin in both these points as only avout the 3 stage but says 4 stage has di also but as you no flush valve it makes sense remove di resin and membrane, anyhow after done first flush, Insert di resin and membrane then says to run system again for another 10- 15 minutes then your good to go.
So if you not aware if tds creep,as you not got a flush valve,let your system run for first 5 minutes or so first then start collecting water as first lot of water maybe higher tds.
Only problem not having flush valve is you can't flush it before and after each use so your di resin may not last aslong as it could last as if got tds creep it all going through your system and not to drain before di resin and membrane etc ( you could buy a flush valve and Install one if you wanted )

 

[ying yang]

This is a flush valve that attaches to waste water and open it so it re-directs water so doesnt go through membrane and di resin I believe.
This isn't your rodi unit btw,just using as example

 

[ying yang]

@Woodyman if press op link they posted then go to bottom in " attachments " is the manual .
Your more experienced around rodi units than me.if you have the time maybe you could read it and see if I'm missing anything as I can't see no mention of a flush valve or see it in diagrams.

And to flush it saying dont insert on very first initial Install and therefore if wanted to flush anytime would be right ball ache removing membrane and di resin lol just to flush ^_^

 

[Woodyman]

@Woodyman if press op link they posted then go to bottom in " attachments " is the manual .
Your more experienced around rodi units than me.if you have the time maybe you could read it and see if I'm missing anything as I can't see no mention of a flush valve or see it in diagrams.

And to flush it saying dont insert on very first initial Install and therefore if wanted to flush anytime would be right ball ache removing membrane and di resin lol just to flush ^_^

I'll give it a read

 

[Woodyman]

@Woodyman if press op link they posted then go to bottom in " attachments " is the manual .
Your more experienced around rodi units than me.if you have the time maybe you could read it and see if I'm missing anything as I can't see no mention of a flush valve or see it in diagrams.

And to flush it saying dont insert on very first initial Install and therefore if wanted to flush anytime would be right ball ache removing membrane and di resin lol just to flush ^_^

Your assessment is correct. No flush valve.

The flush can be done that way, but why? A valve is literally pennies at the bulk prices they are probably paying. Worst case say it's an extra buck (or £), it's a worthwhile investment for ease of use. Who wants to remove the membrane everytime they swap carbon blocks.