Just Curious

[jtl]

I have been reading quite a bit on the forum about QT, something I have never done going back to 1985. I did the TTM a while back. Anyway, how many of you (1) quarantine your fish (2) do you prophylactically treat them while in QT or simply observe and (3) what do you do for treatment?

I have mixed feelings but don't want to deal with Ich, Velvet or Urinoma in my DT. For all I know I already have some disease in the tank but since try to practice good fish husbandry the immune systems may be strong enough to overcome any problems. One of the fish I am getting is a Kole tang, just the name "tang" gives me some pause and gets me thinking Ich magnet. I have the QT set up so it is just a matter of picking up some chemicals. Seems like one of the more popular protocols is treat with Copper Power, General Cure and Metroplex, I'm not sure if the GC is really needed, but I am no expert by any stretch.

 

[reacclimating 2 the hobby]

Tbh I have never done a QT with my fish and I've been lucky. Mostly because I didn't have the resources to set it up. That said the last batch of corals(I know dif topic) has shed some light on why I need to. Came in with a good amount of red bugs. Proper dip took less than an hour and kept my tank clean. Now before I add the rest of my fish I will be investing in a QT. Sorry can't comment on the rest since I'm also a noob. There are some great articles on here about it though.

 

[VSVP bet]

I have had the same fish for about 3 years, and I didnt QT them when I bought them (I was newer then), however, I dip all my corals before placing them in my DT. Now, I'm hesitant to add any new fish because I dont want to deal with disease. I would only buy fish from 2 LFS', and not QT because I know that they are kept in good conditions, all the others would be QTd.

 

[jtl]

Tbh I have never done a QT with my fish and I've been lucky. Mostly because I didn't have the resources to set it up. That said the last batch of corals(I know dif topic) has shed some light on why I need to. Came in with a good amount of red bugs. Proper dip took less than an hour and kept my tank clean. Now before I add the rest of my fish I will be investing in a QT. Sorry can't comment on the rest since I'm also a noob. There are some great articles on here about it though.

I do dip my corals since it is easy and cheap (I use Bayer).

 

[khushtram]

I buy my fish from a store that quarantines the fish before selling them so I skip the qt step. As for corals make sure you buy a healthy specimen and always dip. Knock on wood I’ve been ruining a healthy system for the past 5 years.

 

[jtl]

I have had the same fish for about 3 years, and I didnt QT them when I bought them (I was newer then), however, I dip all my corals before placing them in my DT. Now, I'm hesitant to add any new fish because I dont want to deal with disease. I would only buy fish from 2 LFS', and not QT because I know that they are kept in good conditions, all the others would be QTd.

I know my lfs takes good care of their fish, they even treat them with a Paraguard dip and leave them in Prodibo for a week of observation but but that may or may not be enough time for Ich, Velvet or Urinoma to show up. Of course even the QT at home is not 100% since the DT may already have diseases.

 

[rfischer]

I buy my fish from a store that quarantines the fish before selling them so I skip the qt step. As for corals make sure you buy a healthy specimen and always dip. Knock on wood I’ve been ruining a healthy system for the past 5 years.

Lol, “ruining.” I believe I misspell a word or spellcheck “helps” me once a post. Best of luck with your system.

Haha, that almost came out “best of lick with your system” but I caught it for a change. Curse these fat thumbs.

 

[jd371]

I observe for a week or two and only treat if something pops up. The couple of weeks in the tank also lets me feed them the same food the other fish get so they get accustomed to that and fattens them up ready for the main tank. I keep the trifecta of antibiotics on hand ( Furan-2, Kanaplex and Metroplex ) along with a bottle of Coppersafe so I'm ready to go if I see something.

 

[SDK]

I also never used to quarantine, and have been in the hobby dating back to the 1970's, but now follow the full procedure as outlined by @HotRocks

I also did a lot of research. The conclusion I reached was that things seem to be different now. My guess is that the almost direct pipeline from the ocean back then has been replaced by a myriad of captive bred and wild fish circulating through a more complicated distribution chain.

Whatever the reason, it seems that diseases and parasites are more widespread now, and practices that worked 20 or 30 years ago are much more risky than they used to be.

Just reading through the many, many threads here from people who didn't and are now having major issues was enough to convince me....

 

[ngoodermuth]

Coming from someone who has had several run-ins with velvet and ich... I now QT and prophylactically treat ALL of my fish:

Copper/metroplex OR chloroquine phosphate for 14 days, depending on species sensitivity to either. Followed by transfer to second, sterile QT.

Then, two doses of General Cure (or Prazipro) 5-7 days apart, while food soaking General Cure or Metroplex for 10 days.

Lastly, remove all medications with a large water-change/carbon for non-medicated observation for at least a week (two is better but I am usually a bit impatient at this point) to get them fat and relaxed and watch for secondary infections before going into the DT.

 

[Sorcha2]

I didn't in the past and then had one really bad outbreak that I'm not even sure qt would have prevented. So going forward I'm planning on doing qt for my fish. I'm also planning on introducing them in a different order that I found to be successful with delicate freshwater community fish. Basically the most easily stressed out delicate fish first to the most chill hardy fish. It only really works if you are experienced enough to keep a young tank stable and willing to wait a good month or so between additions so the fish all have time to get used to each other before new additions. You also really have to have your stocking list planned out in advance.

 

[jtl]

Coming from someone who has had several run-ins with velvet and ich... I now QT and prophylactically treat ALL of my fish:

Copper/metroplex OR chloroquine phosphate for 14 days, depending on species sensitivity to either. Followed by transfer to second, sterile QT.

Then, two doses of General Cure (or Prazipro) 5-7 days apart, while food soaking General Cure or Metroplex for 10 days.

Lastly, remove all medications with a large water-change/carbon for non-medicated observation for at least a week (two is better but I am usually a bit impatient at this point) to get them fat and relaxed and watch for secondary infections before going into the DT.

I wonder if GC is totally necessary since I believe it can cause some issues if using copper. If I am understanding this, Metroplex is for Uronema, Copper is for Ich and Velvet. I will probably do a FW dip to check for fukes, and treat if necessary. I am only going to use one tank. This is how I plan to do it: Do the normal acclimation, use Copper Power to raise the level from 1 to 1.75 over 3 days. Dose Metroplex on day 3, 6 and 9. Leave copper at 1.75 for 10 days then to a large WC and run carbon. Check for flukes and dose Prazipro if necessary (2 doses) 5-7 days apart as I recall. Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[ngoodermuth]

If you are only using one tank, you’ll want to keep the copper going for 30 days. To be most effective against brook/uronema the metroplex should be run for 14 of those days.

General cure contains both praziquantel (prazipro) and metronidazole (metroplex). It doesn’t react poorly with copper AS LONG AS there is lots of aeration, as the praziquantel will literally zap the dissolved O2. But, I personally save the general cure or prazipro until after I’ve finished copper just to be safe.

For internal parasites, General cure is a good option because the praziquantel takes out intestinal worms while the metronidazole kills other intestinal parasites (flagellates). Although, I’ve noticed that if I have a new fish that is reluctant to eat food with general cure I sometimes have better luck with just metroplex. Not ideal, but at least I’m killing one bird and if I see stringy poop later on I can try feeding the general cure again... once the fish is better acclimated.

 

[jtl]

If you are only using one tank, you’ll want to keep the copper going for 30 days. To be most effective against brook/uronema the metroplex should be run for 14 of those days.

General cure contains both praziquantel (prazipro) and metronidazole (metroplex). It doesn’t react poorly with copper AS LONG AS there is lots of aeration, as the praziquantel will literally zap the dissolved O2. But, I personally save the general cure or prazipro until after I’ve finished copper just to be safe.

For internal parasites, General cure is a good option because the praziquantel takes out intestinal worms while the metronidazole kills other intestinal parasites (flagellates). Although, I’ve noticed that if I have a new fish that is reluctant to eat food with general cure I sometimes have better luck with just metroplex. Not ideal, but at least I’m killing one bird and if I see stringy poop later on I can try feeding the general cure again... once the fish is better acclimated.

What is the difference between copper for 14 days and then transfer to new water (sterile) or just doing a 100% w/c and then observing for a week or two. I'm only treating a small clown and a small Kole tang. Is the concern that some Ich may still be in the QT and with very reduced levels of copper it could reinfect the fish?

 

[ngoodermuth]

What is the difference between copper for 14 days and then transfer to new water (sterile) or just doing a 100% w/c and then observing for a week or two. I'm only treating a small clown and a small Kole tang. Is the concern that some Ich may still be in the QT and with very reduced levels of copper it could reinfect the fish?

It has to do with the lifecycle of the parasites. Copper doesn’t kill them in the “encysted” stage or while they are actually on the fish, only the free-swimming stage in between leaving the cyst and attaching to the fish. If you transfer the fish straight out of a copper treated tank after 14 days without lowering the copper you’ve accounted for the attached parasites dropping off the fish, and the encysted ones being left behind. Lowering the copper sooner would possibly allow the fish to be reinfected when the cyst releases more free-swimmers.