just goes to show....

[NicLongman]

Well, its the next morning and unfortunately my 4 fish died in the night....i thought they were sleeping...not gonna lie it kinda hurts...hahaha . anyway guess this will be a lesson ill only learn once.... patience....and dont use API test kits.....

Nature-1 Me-0

 

[jason2459]

What did the API kit have to do with it?

Sorry for the losses though.

 

[Antics]

Sorry to hear about the fish.

 

[Brew12]

Well, its the next morning and unfortunately my 4 fish died in the night....i thought they were sleeping...not gonna lie it kinda hurts...hahaha . anyway guess this will be a lesson ill only learn once.... patience....and dont use API test kits.....

Nature-1 Me-0

Sorry for your losses.

API is fine for ammonia, nitrite and even for nitrate on a newer aquarium. Some times it can be difficult to understand exactly what the test kits are trying to tell us.

 

[Antics]

Sorry for your losses.

API is fine for ammonia, nitrite and even for nitrate on a newer aquarium. Some times it can be difficult to understand exactly what the test kits are trying to tell us.

In @NicLongman's other thread I mentioned that I found API to be unreliable for Ammonia. I believe I should point out that my perspective is more in line with what @Brew12 is saying. I consider the test kit unreliable because I have difficulty making the visual difference between 0 and 0.25 not so much the higher readings. This could just be me, but the Ammonia kit seems very touchy at the lower end and time sensitive on how long the reagent sits for.

 

[Brew12]

In @NicLongman's other thread I mentioned that I found API to be unreliable for Ammonia. I believe I should point out that my perspective is more in line with what @Brew12 is saying. I consider the test kit unreliable because I have difficulty making the visual difference between 0 and 0.25 not so much the higher readings. This could just be me, but the Ammonia kit seems very touchy at the lower end and time sensitive on how long the reagent sits for.

I'll agree with this. I don't worry about accuracy when it comes to ammonia or nitrite which is why I feel the API is just fine.

Test kits of any quality can only tell you one thing. The amount of whatever it is you are trying to measure in the water. If you have low nitrate but rapidly growing algae, you aren't nutrient starved no matter what the test kit shows.
If you have a lot of algae in a new aquarium and no ammonia, your tank may still not be cycled properly. Algae can process ammonia directly and prevent nitrifying bacteria from reproducing as quickly as they normally would. If the algae dies off or gets pulled out it can lead to an ammonia spike.

Not saying test kits aren't important, but they only tell one part of the story.

 

[jason2459]

Can there be a link to another thread if this thread is based on that thread. Leaves many of us in the dark.

 

[Brew12]

Can there be a link to another thread if this thread is based on that thread. Leaves many of us in the dark.

There is, although I didn't make the connection at first.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/help-ammonia-and-nitrates-high.322290/

 

[NicLongman]

everyone kept asking me what type of kit i was using and the general consensus was dont use API... at least i still have my coral and anem...if that sucker lives through this ill be impressed....a rock slid and landed right on top of him....but he looks just fine at least i had the chance to redo things over again that i didnt like .... gotta say i completely remodled the entire tank...looks much betterin in my opion

 

[jason2459]

Not sure if I read all that thread right but I don't see where the kit was at fault. A single snail should not have been an issue. What kind of snail though?

Nitrite reading correlates with ammonia elevation and not having the proper bacteria to cycle it all to nitrate.

Like you said in the other thread its a lesson in patience. Anemone should have not have been put in such a new tank. How much and what were you feeding it?

 

[Donovan Joannes]

API is fine. I have been using it for years. No issue. Just be sure it reads ZERO for things need to be ZERO (ammonia, nitrite or whatever element you want to be at zero). If bright yellow is the zero indicator, make sure it is bright yellow. Other shades of yellow means it is not zero.

 

[NicLongman]

i was quite tired this morning and im almost certain i meant the nitrate nitrite the other way around. I ended up doing a 15g WC yesterday and levels seemed to have evened out and to my dismay my fish were dead thismorning a sad but probably necessary experience. My anemone started keeping its mouth open and wchich was enough for me to do another WC this time 30 gallons. Hopefully this will fix the tank otherwise try a bigger WC. at least my corals are all still alive...i was even able to bring that pesky sps up from pure white bleach.