Kalkwasser: Looking for input - Timer vs. Hydor ATO system

Josh King

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I am currently using Kalk. I have an Hydor smart level ATO system. I do not use it for the Kalk dosing as it does it too fast. I tried using it with a TOMs pump but the alarm goes off as it does not fill in the allotted time period of 10 minutes.
I now dose the Kalk with a regular digital timer. I measured the amount of evaporation and timed how long it takes to fill a container with that amount. I use the TOMs aqualifter with a airline flow cutting valve on the end. It fills the top off from 6:00AM - 7:40AM. This will have to be adjusted periodically I realize with humidity, temp of room, etc. Lights come on a 9:00AM - off at 9:30PM.
Does this seem like a good method? Does anyone have any suggestions or input?
 
Also, it is settled Kalk solution from 2 little fishes Kalkwasser in a sealed 5 gallon bucket with the tubing up off the sludge on the bottom.
 
When I first started using Kalk, I used in my Tunze ATO without any problems. But, when I got to the point that it wasn't enough to keep up with my growing demand, I had to start using two part and started to dose the kalk through a LiterMeter pump, and a digital timer. I adjusted the dose to just below my typical daily evaporation, and allowed my ATO to make up the difference. This arrangement gave me more consistancy since it was no longer dependant on the varying evaporation rates.
 
Excellent! Thank you Downbeach. I think I will do just as you did and put a larger pump on my ATO in a separate reservoir. That sounds much more consistent throughout the seasons.
 
When I first started using Kalk, I used in my Tunze ATO without any problems. But, when I got to the point that it wasn't enough to keep up with my growing demand, I had to start using two part and started to dose the kalk through a LiterMeter pump, and a digital timer. I adjusted the dose to just below my typical daily evaporation, and allowed my ATO to make up the difference. This arrangement gave me more consistancy since it was no longer dependant on the varying evaporation rates.
What did you use for Magnesium out of curoisity?
 
What did you use for Magnesium out of curoisity?

Although I had the chem's(Mg Cloride/Sulfate) from BRS, I never had to use it since with regular WC's it stayed ~1350ppm with my SG @ 1.026. I had a fairly decent load; along with the fully saturated kalk I was dosing 125mL of each Ca and Alk daily(Randy's recipe #1).
 
Although I had the chem's(Mg Cloride/Sulfate) from BRS, I never had to use it since with regular WC's it stayed ~1350ppm with my SG @ 1.026. I had a fairly decent load; along with the fully saturated kalk I was dosing 125mL of each Ca and Alk daily(Randy's recipe #1).
Thank you. I have been using Seachem Mag. I will have to start testing more often though. Originally it was at 1100ppm, before supplementing. But I have been adding the Mag for a few weeks now as stated on the bottle. So it may be too high and I will test tomorrow. I change 15 gallons every two weeks with reef crystals in my 87 gallon total volume (accounting for displacement) system.
 
Thank you. I have been using Seachem Mag. I will have to start testing more often though. Originally it was at 1100ppm, before supplementing. But I have been adding the Mag for a few weeks now as stated on the bottle. So it may be too high and I will test tomorrow. I change 15 gallons every two weeks with reef crystals in my 87 gallon total volume (accounting for displacement) system.

Check the accuracy of your SG. If you're not adding enough salt mix due to a non/mis calibrated device, all elements will be on the low side, i.e. Mg @ 1100ppm, along with your Ca and Alk. RC should test out around 1450ppm at a SG of 1.026(35ppt). Swing arm type hydrometers are notorious for this primarily due to micro bubbles. I would suggest a decent refractometer that has been calibrated with a 35ppt solution for good results.
 
Check the accuracy of your SG. If you're not adding enough salt mix due to a non/mis calibrated device, all elements will be on the low side, i.e. Mg @ 1100ppm, along with your Ca and Alk. RC should test out around 1450ppm at a SG of 1.026(35ppt). Swing arm type hydrometers are notorious for this primarily due to micro bubbles. I would suggest a decent refractometer that has been calibrated with a 35ppt solution for good results.
I am going to buy myself a refractometer for Christmas. I currently use a glass hydrometer + thermometer and cross reference it with the swing arm. The swing arm as you stated is horribly inaccurate. I have to tap it and refill it and then they usually match. Thank you.
 
Check the accuracy of your SG. If you're not adding enough salt mix due to a non/mis calibrated device, all elements will be on the low side, i.e. Mg @ 1100ppm, along with your Ca and Alk. RC should test out around 1450ppm at a SG of 1.026(35ppt). Swing arm type hydrometers are notorious for this primarily due to micro bubbles. I would suggest a decent refractometer that has been calibrated with a 35ppt solution for good results.
I have also printed out Randy Holmes-Farley's article on Limewater. I will read through it this weekend.
 

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