Kessil H160 - impressions

Im in the process of building my sump 18H x 19L x 21W, I was trying to decide between th H80 and H160 any update on your H160?

I have the a80, an h150 (before the h160) and I used to have the h380. Based on those dimensions, I would go with an h380. That is, unless you have a small DT and your planned fuge is disproportionally large or something...
 
Growth is quicker and penetrates considerably deeper. If those dimensions are for the refugium specifically, the H80 wont work well but the H160 may; my sump is considerably smaller so I have no data that would be useful but would suspect the H380 to be a better option for those dimensions.

thanks
 
I have the a80, an h150 (before the h160) and I used to have the h380. Based on those dimensions, I would go with an h380. That is, unless you have a small DT and your planned fuge is disproportionally large or something...

100 gallon long DT, going to use my first tank 75 gallon for the sump laying out plans for the baffles.
 
"enough" is relative. There are those that think compact fluorescent clip-ons from Home Depot are enough. Some think Kessil H80 are enough. I've not seen many think that the H380 isn't enough, although they have the H1200 for those that may need it.

For me, the H380 was way overkill for my small reefer 250 sump (well stocked, well fed, well skimmed tank, with 5 chromis, 2 clowns, 1 flame hawk, 1 med yellow tang and a RO regal 150sss skimmer). I had to shade to restrict the coverage and it was stripping out nutrients too fast so I had to limit the photoperiod to just 6 hours or so, and I was still running at 0 for Nitrates and Phosphates, so I started dosing them.

The H160 for me seems to be on the high side of "enough". My photoperiod is up to 12 hours with the first and last hour being faded in and out, which results in a smoother PH curve on my APEX. I'm still having to dose Nitrates and Phosphates in my ATO water, so I could reduce the intensity, but things seem to be happy.

Would the H80 have been enough for me? Maybe. But for me, the H160 gives me the flexibility to increase and decrease period and intensity at will and has a bit of headroom left if I need it.
Hey Rick, I've got the same reefer 250 and I'm trying to grow chaeto in my sump as well with the H160, but mine keeps dying off even though I have measurable phosphates and Nitrates. What spectrum and intensity do you have yours set at and how far off the water do you have it? Do you does anything else besides nitrates and phosphates? I'm wondering if I need iron or something. Thanks.
 
i recently purchased the H160 to light the fuge section of my trigger 34 sump, maybe a 10 gallons tops of space. i put a small tennis ball amount of cheato in 3 weeks ago and it is a huge mass of cheato now, i have the light set to grow spectrum and about half way up on intensity. i light the fuge from 11pm 10 8am. i dont know if the smaller or larger version would have been better or worse but this light is great. i manually turn my cheato over every couple days since its not tumbling.
 
Hey Rick, I've got the same reefer 250 and I'm trying to grow chaeto in my sump as well with the H160, but mine keeps dying off even though I have measurable phosphates and Nitrates. What spectrum and intensity do you have yours set at and how far off the water do you have it? Do you does anything else besides nitrates and phosphates? I'm wondering if I need iron or something. Thanks.

I do put a few drops of iron in every month or so when I remember...not sure what effect it has. My spectum is at 40% on my Apex (which seemed to match H380 Grow setting), assume it corresponds to similar dial position. I run it full intensity for 12 hrs/day (with ramps on either end), and it's about 8" from the water surface. I'm getting a lot of different kinds of algae in the sump now, some turf, some other macro type as well. I also get a lot of light spillage, so it's growing all over the place. The Chaeto still grows like gangbusters. I'm not sure what else to tell you there. May need to play with things until yours responds
 
I do put a few drops of iron in every month or so when I remember...not sure what effect it has. My spectum is at 40% on my Apex (which seemed to match H380 Grow setting), assume it corresponds to similar dial position. I run it full intensity for 12 hrs/day (with ramps on either end), and it's about 8" from the water surface. I'm getting a lot of different kinds of algae in the sump now, some turf, some other macro type as well. I also get a lot of light spillage, so it's growing all over the place. The Chaeto still grows like gangbusters. I'm not sure what else to tell you there. May need to play with things until yours responds
What iron supplement are you using? Do you test for Iron, or just kind of wing it? I've got my H160 only about 2 to 3 inches off the water and wondering if it's too focused. Would that cause chaeto to turn white and die off? Any other supplements you use on your tank?
 
I wing it...putting in a little korallen-zucht iron supplement in my ATO (about 1ml/weel). I basically just use BRS 3 part to keep alk and Ca levels good. And I dose Nitrate and Phosphates in my ATO as well since mine tend to be 0.

2-3" I think is too close, especially if your Chaeto isn't used to it. May want to gradually build up to it (or set intensity lower).
 
I have the triton trigger sump, the fuge is like 14x14 and about 10 gallons. I have yet to get it all set up as I am still doing research. Do you recommend the h380 or h160. There isn't much data or hard recommendations on how to know what one you really need. They all say they cover about the same area.
 
Do the 160, great ight, hooked mine up 2 weeks ago more than enough light for 14x14, had 380 before and it was a light cannon have raise up or down to diffuse light no intensity knob
 
The 160 should be enough light for a 14x14 area. My area's more like 10x10 and it's too much light for it. And intensity adjustability allows you to really dial it in.
 
I brought the h160 about two months ago when it just come out. The growth is amazing dense growth through out. running it about %50.
 
I am wondering what light schedule and intensity I should run my H160 tuna flora on in my sump/fuge. I have the Triton 44 sump, with some cheato. Using the Kessil Spectral controller for scheduling. Any insight is appreciated.
 
I am wondering what light schedule and intensity I should run my H160 tuna flora on in my sump/fuge. I have the Triton 44 sump, with some cheato. Using the Kessil Spectral controller for scheduling. Any insight is appreciated.
I started mine out at about 70%. The trick is to pick a percentage around that and then bring it down if you start to melt the chaeto. It will literally look like it's melting and getting gooey instead of the hard filaments chaeto normally is. If it slowly starts to die (this takes a lot longer than melting it) you can bring up the percentage a little bit. The time you light it for will depend on how much nutrients you want to take out of the water. I'd start around 8 hours if you have a fair amount of nutrients. I try to keep my phosphates above 0.03 ppm and Nitrates around 5-7 ppm and if they get lower, I reduce the lighting. If they get high, I increase lighting. If you have trouble getting your chaeto to grow, I've had a lot of luck with Brightwell Aquatics Chaetogro Refugium Fertilizer. FYI, I have the the H160 tuna flora light as well on top of my 10 gallon refugium sitting on top of a piece of plexiglass.
 
As I said, I have very little room with my large skimmer, but I still pull out about a softball's size ball each week. I put some in my filter cups to catch some of the detritus on the way in and have the critters break it down. Grows fairly deep.

h160.jpg
What is the device that makes it straight down from the gooseneck as I can get the gooseneck to bend so it's having straight down
 
I just ordered my h160 and it’s coming in this Tuesday! I’m trying to 3D print a fixture to hold it up and keep the cables all clean. Any of you all happen to have a pair of calipers and could give me the dimension of the h160’s diameter?!

I’ve gone to multiple different websites and some say 2.5” diameter and others say 2.48” and I was just curious so I could print the fixture to hold onto the light pretty snug!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top