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Kessil Light Director: Save your sump!

Did you use PLA or PETG?

I use PETG for all my products, as the bed adhesion is great for a 24/7 print environment. After spending some time calibrating I get more or less the same print quality with no stringing.

I tested this on multiple H160s and all of them exhibited warping within a few weeks. Even an ABS version started to sag. It’s unfortunate as so many people have H160s compared to H380s, but just the reality :(.

Forum member @ludnix overcame the issue cleverly in his version by using nylon screws to offset the printed plastic from the fixture itself. Wish I thought of that, but of course I don’t want to copy someone else.
 
Did you ever produce one of these for the Kessil H160? I'm having a terrible problem with light spill in my sump and there's stuff growing everywhere as a result.

A google search brought me here, but the thread is a little old.

So, is something like this still available for purchase?
 
Did you have the same issue with a160 as the h160? My a160 doesn’t feel hot at all
 
I use PETG for all my products, as the bed adhesion is great for a 24/7 print environment. After spending some time calibrating I get more or less the same print quality with no stringing.

I tested this on multiple H160s and all of them exhibited warping within a few weeks. Even an ABS version started to sag. It’s unfortunate as so many people have H160s compared to H380s, but just the reality :(.

Forum member @ludnix overcame the issue cleverly in his version by using nylon screws to offset the printed plastic from the fixture itself. Wish I thought of that, but of course I don’t want to copy someone else.
Wondering if you have tried carbon fiber nylon? I've printed a couple of things with that filament and it has performed well. It printed fine on glass with glue stick. Just curious. Also tried CF PETG but I found it to be surprisingly brittle.
 
Wondering if you have tried carbon fiber nylon? I've printed a couple of things with that filament and it has performed well. It printed fine on glass with glue stick. Just curious. Also tried CF PETG but I found it to be surprisingly brittle.

I have not. Nylon is one of the most toxic filament to print (without ventilation), and none of my designs are structural components that would benefit from the strength.
 
I have not. Nylon is one of the most toxic filament to print (without ventilation), and none of my designs are structural components that would benefit from the strength.
Yeah, there are trade-offs to every material. I would not print Nylon or ABS/ASA without ventilation. I suggested it because it has performed well in higher-temp applications for me and seems to warp less on the bed with CF addition.
 
So are we out of luck right now for the Kessil H160?
I'm going he replies I need one like 4 inches long that fits on the h160 I bought one from eel River and it's horrible with upward be should've and all that good stuff
 
I have not. Nylon is one of the most toxic filament to print (without ventilation), and none of my designs are structural components that would benefit from the strength.
Maybe try using small screws to hold it on give it a small clearance in the circumference and then just thumb screws? So there's no direct contact
 
I'm going he replies I need one like 4 inches long that fits on the h160 I bought one from eel River and it's horrible with upward be should've and all that good stuff
I've seen someone else on youtube rig an upside down small bucket with a hole in the top for the light, some small holes/inlet-outlet holes for a circulation, and a small pump pushing water in it. One more thing to maintain...


I would rather not do that and wish we had a good "hood" for the H160 that wouldn't melt or warp.
 
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Maybe try using small screws to hold it on give it a small clearance in the circumference and then just thumb screws? So there's no direct contact

I could probably do that, but the small points of contact from a screw are not the best for firm grip. It would tend to wobble etc.
 

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