Kessil Penetration

  • Thread starter Thread starter Devi
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Point the camera straight up from the water surface at the light you are sampling - and make sure the app is set to use the correct camera.

I like to get a feel for the "peak area" where you can get readings within 90-95% of your peak measurement.

Then I like to map out the area where I get at least 50% of peak, or 20,000 lux - whichever is more.

Last, I like to map out the range of measurements around the perimeter of the tank.

You may wish to take more or less measurements, depends on your needs and curiosity. :)
 
I'm confused about the use of this app too. If the light is not directly over the camera you are picking up light only from a very indirect angle and the camera sensor isn't designed for that. Is this just to get the values for the 4-6" on either side so you can interpolate the 70 degree spread?
 
Ya, you have to keep the camera aimed at the light when you're measuring off-center. Do whatever you can, in fact, to record the peak measurement at each location you sample.
 
I was pointing the camera around my tank like it was a par meter lol dead center under my light I have 197k about 4" to either side is 65k about another 2" is 50k. Works out good for my scape as I have two islands about 3/4 the way up the water column
 
2 of my kessils seem to be penetrating good on my 90.. I did the two island look and not to many caves cause there will be shadows but so far I'm very happy.

image.jpeg
 
I was pointing the camera around my tank like it was a par meter lol[...]

@saltyfilmfolks has been experimenting with that function. That's an additional usage that I hadn't even considered. :) Definitely something I'll be experimenting with just to see how it goes.]

To a large degree, as long as you're "doing it right" above the water line, you can presume everything underneath is alright.

This means covering the tank with something like 20,000-80,000 lux. It can be that simple. :)

[...]dead center under my light I have 197k about 4" to either side is 65k about another 2" is 50k. Works out good for my scape as I have two islands about 3/4 the way up the water column

As in almost 200,000 lux? Double check that one...it's not impossible, but that's definitely in need of throttling back if it's the real case.

Most corals start stressing from the side-effects of photosynthesis above 80,000-100,000 lux...some corals deal with that better than others. 200,000 would definitely cause problems.

Is it possible the readings could have been 20,000 lux, 6,500 lux and 5,000 lux? There's often a "x10" or "x100" designation on the display, so make sure to account for that.

FYI, corals can survive as low as 1000 lux.

Many corals reach their compensation point (grow) at around 5,000-10,000 lux. I have one SPS tank that reads around 10,000 lux and it does fine.

So don't be worried if your readings turn out to be at the other end of the range! :)
 
2 of my kessils seem to be penetrating good on my 90..[...]

How high from the water are your fixtures and what lenses? (90º? Not sure if there are options.)

Any chance you'd get a lux meter and test too? Start with post #12. :) I'd love to know the numbers over your tank!
 
This is the reading in the center, maybe 6" from the fixture.....I'm prob about 2-3" off of the water surface, a little nervous with the phone being too close to the water @mcarroll
image.png
 
No lux meter yet just starting the tank last night actually I'm running two A360WE I love them the pic is about 45%blue at 50% intensity and about 8 inches off water line.
 
in my experience so far, keeping SPS with the 360We has been a challenge for sure. with my light 6" above the water i cranked it up to 100% blues and intensity and whipped out a par meter. 350 an inch under the water, directly under the light. 225-250 @8" below, 125-150 @12", and 85-100 @the floor. my LPS have never been happier so i too am sticking with kessils, was going to upgrade to the AP700 but the technology compatibility just isn't there yet soon I'm switching out my 3 360We's and adding a 4th light to cover the spread loss by going to the 360N's. so with that all said, by getting the light closer to the water, you're limiting the spread of the light to refract from the glass walls. by adding a second (thanks for the shout out too @SteveSTL) 360we you'll add to the usable intensity (PUR) and be able to bounce more light off the walls of your aquarium without having to raise the light and lower the penetration
 
No lux meter yet just starting the tank last night actually I'm running two A360WE I love them the pic is about 45%blue at 50% intensity and about 8 inches off water line.

It's free - as in $free - so give the lux meter app a try! :)
 
@saltyfilmfolks has been experimenting with that function. That's an additional usage that I hadn't even considered. :) Definitely something I'll be experimenting with just to see how it goes.]

To a large degree, as long as you're "doing it right" above the water line, you can presume everything underneath is alright.

This means covering the tank with something like 20,000-80,000 lux. It can be that simple. :)



As in almost 200,000 lux? Double check that one...it's not impossible, but that's definitely in need of throttling back if it's the real case.

Most corals start stressing from the side-effects of photosynthesis above 80,000-100,000 lux...some corals deal with that better than others. 200,000 would definitely cause problems.

Is it possible the readings could have been 20,000 lux, 6,500 lux and 5,000 lux? There's often a "x10" or "x100" designation on the display, so make sure to account for that.

FYI, corals can survive as low as 1000 lux.

Many corals reach their compensation point (grow) at around 5,000-10,000 lux. I have one SPS tank that reads around 10,000 lux and it does fine.

So don't be worried if your readings turn out to be at the other end of the range! :)
Hi. It's not quite relative. But I have to run mccaroll thanks for tagging me. I'll get into how it works in the morning. Bob Fenner is speaking tonight and I'm on my way out the door.
On reflective mode point the camera at a white spot. It's pretty close. You lose some from the glass and some because of angle of incedence. It also vary greatly from camera to camera.

Squeeee. Bob Fenner. Fan boy.
 
I have a kessil 350w w/ gooseneck you could put on a timer and just leave it set at full power for the middle of the day. I'll let it go for $225
 
ab9ec628a9b46400452c0554cb9b1bad.jpg


This is 3-360we on a 20" deep tank. Sps grows on sand less bottom with ease. I'm selling these 3 as I'm upgrading tanks soon and wanted to try something else. Most of my corals grow like weeds in my tank.
 
[...]350 an inch under the water, directly under the light. 225-250 @8" below, 125-150 @12", and 85-100 @the floor[...]

350 PAR is only about 17,000 lux.

It's on the low side, but stony corals (even SPS) are definitely doable in that range. (I'm doin it @ around 10K lux.)

Going from 120º to 90º at the same power should be good for a 25% bump all by itself.
 

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