Kessil Show Off Thread (Warning, may be picture heavy!)

Which Kessil Product Do You Use Or Have Used


  • Total voters
    506
Episode 1 of Kessil University has been released. Featuring the A360WE
 
Aquatic life t5 hybrid with kessil 160’s. Intensity 59% color 62% over Red Sea Reefer 250. Fixture approx 10” off the water.

2E30A9BA-84EB-4D62-989D-BF4C8F4DB348.jpeg


794ED5E3-5E51-46D9-8C52-C7783F7CEE30.jpeg


26F18679-149D-4BED-A64D-AC82EE22DD7B.jpeg


5FD48A91-BB15-44C3-AA13-705F8EA872EA.jpeg


6A7C4688-D033-4236-B2B0-D99B28FFD49B.jpeg


FE4BF7BE-F6C3-41B5-87CA-FB5A356C7FF3.jpeg


E2CD4304-E26A-42B0-AD17-F585304BC540.jpeg


C86F8621-DE54-4B9F-8AFD-A476761E7516.jpeg
 
I just swapped out my DIY led fixture for an a360N-E on my 29 gallon biocube. I have the intensity set at about 20% right now and the A-mount is at the 8.5" line (which is about 10" from the water level to bottom of LED). I went with the narrow version because I want to make sure I have enough PAR to really hit SPS hard and hopefully reduce light hitting the sides and adding algae problems.

Any suggestions on height/intensity ramp-up would be appreciated. Middle of the tank is SPS, side/bottoms are LPS with some zoas on the bottom. Highest SPS frags are 2/3 -3/4 of the way to the top of the water right now.
 
I just swapped out my DIY led fixture for an a360N-E on my 29 gallon biocube. I have the intensity set at about 20% right now and the A-mount is at the 8.5" line (which is about 10" from the water level to bottom of LED). I went with the narrow version because I want to make sure I have enough PAR to really hit SPS hard and hopefully reduce light hitting the sides and adding algae problems.

Any suggestions on height/intensity ramp-up would be appreciated. Middle of the tank is SPS, side/bottoms are LPS with some zoas on the bottom. Highest SPS frags are 2/3 -3/4 of the way to the top of the water right now.
Sounds like you've found a good starting point. The N's focus the light down pretty good so you may notice that you don't have to turn the intensity up as much. Stay where you're at and ramp it up by 5% per week and see how your corals respond.
 
All these threads make me wonder; Why doesn't kessil make an H160 horticulture light? The H80 typically isn't enough, and for a lot of people the H380 or w/e it's called is overkill.

Kessil does make the H150, which is in between the H80 and H380. You can't adjust the color, but I'd recommend just going with the H150 Purple, which is the same as the "grow" setting.

Additionally, the Kessil H350 Deep Purple provides much of the same capabilities as the H380 for less cost. Again, you can't adjust the color, but most folks just use the "grow" (purple) setting anyway. It's also very slightly less powerful. It's what I use for my refugium.

If you need the color control (unlikely) or those few extra watts, the H380 is great. But the H150 Purple and H350 Deep Purple fill in the gap well between the H80 and H380.
 
Kessil has just released info on the H160!

Kessil Announces the New H160 Tuna Flora LED Grow Light
-RhYofEG7waooy5YCvidVgEK2m_t0wcTBPLb6EZpU-tKo5pW5-o2v5ul-ygxPmJPxD1CZItdsZD1I-FgnAO0WxJ-pMLJh6RgqL0I0jm3s9a5KsZSR8ePYWccWp75=s0-d-e1-ft


The H160 Tuna Flora grow light is a groundbreaking full spectrum LED grow light featuring
spectrum and intensity control through Kessil logic, allowing for the best possible yield for your
plants or algae.
Richmond, CA - April, 2018 – Kessil Lighting, a leading manufacturer of LED aquarium and
horticulture lighting, is proud to announce the release of the H160 Tuna Flora. Joining the
popular H80 Tuna Flora and H380 Spectral Halo II grow lights, the new H160 Tuna Flora is the
successor to our wildly successful, groundbreaking, and very first Kessil product line, the H150
series.
The H160 Tuna Flora is a 40 watts
fixture featuring the latest and most
efficient patented Dense Matrix LED
technology from Kessil’s parent
company DiCon Fiberoptics, Inc. The
Dense Matrix array delivers powerful
and penetrating light that takes
advantage of our proprietary blend of
spectrum for growing, Tuna Flora. Like
the H80 and H1200 Tuna Flora , the
H160 Tuna Flora features four efficient
spectrums - BLUE, GROW, BLOOM,
RED - in one single fixture, offering the best possible growth and yield in plants and algae. The
light has perfectly blended wavelengths including UV and Infrared (ranging from 380-780 nm),
enhancing photosynthetic efficiency, and is perfect for plants, microalgae, and macroalgae,
making it a great addition to any growing operation or refugium.

upload_2018-4-27_15-13-0.png

upload_2018-4-27_15-13-23.png


The H160 Tuna Flora has intensity and spectrum knobs control, and includes 0-10V external
control, being compatible with both the new H-Series Spectral Controller and the award-winning
A-Series Spectral Controller. The new H-Series controller allows user to take full advantage of
the Tuna Flora spectrums for dedicated grow cycles, mimicking daily light patterns as well as
and seasonal changes through the Auto Mode.
“The H160 integrates the advanced technology and spectrum of the H80 Tuna Flora into the
much loved and classic form factor of the H150 offering more power at an affordable price ”
says David Lowry, Brand Manager at Kessil, “With the advanced technology, unique spectrums,
and innovative features, the H160 Tuna Flora perfectly fills the gap between the H80 and H380
for plant and algae growing.”
 
I just got the A360we tuna blue, and we find it very dark, we have turned up the color and intensity and just find it too dark to enjoy seeing all the fish, makes it look like it is constantly in moon light, is it just me? It is on a 24x24x24 tank (60 Cube), should it be paired with accent lighting?
 
I just got the A360we tuna blue, and we find it very dark, we have turned up the color and intensity and just find it too dark to enjoy seeing all the fish, makes it look like it is constantly in moon light, is it just me? It is on a 24x24x24 tank (60 Cube), should it be paired with accent lighting?
Are you controlling it via a controller or turning the knob on the light itself. At 100% color it should be daytime white.
 
So, I just unplugged it from the controller and used it manually, and I can get definitely a brighter white, how can I achieve that on the controller?
 
So, I just unplugged it from the controller and used it manually, and I can get definitely a brighter white, how can I achieve that on the controller?
Double check that the control cable is plugged in all the way on both ends and is plugged into the "in" port on your kessil. Usually a loose cable will cause your issue
 
Cords are nice and tight, so does my cord need to be plugged into the input hole or output hole that is connected to the controller? And if i am using the controller, does it matter where the knobs are on the light itself
 
Cords are nice and tight, so does my cord need to be plugged into the input hole or output hole that is connected to the controller? And if i am using the controller, does it matter where the knobs are on the light itself
When you plug the controller cord into the kessil the knobs are overridden. Both ports on the controller are output ports. There is a port 1 and port two. If you're looking at the controller the port on the left is port 1 and the one on the right is port 2. There should be two ports on your light as well. One is a control in and one is a control out.
 
Ok, so the data link cord is plugged into output and into port 1. I will post some pics so you can see the controller and the tank soon.
 
If I unplug it from the light, it then goes bright white, and as soon as i plug it in; goes right back to the darkish blue. It is not the complete dark blue, but it is certainly not the bright white
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top