kevlow
Active Member
Just to be clear, I do not use ABC. I use the Comp 1,2,3 [ alk, cal, trace elements]. Regardless, it has been very easy to use and not so high strung that mistakes are fatal. Well with in my simple, easy method of doing things.
Kevlow's Very Shallow Reef Tank
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Just to be clear, I do not use ABC. I use the Comp 1,2,3 [ alk, cal, trace elements]. Regardless, it has been very easy to use and not so high strung that mistakes are fatal. Well with in my simple, easy method of doing things.
Leaellynasaura
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I like the idea of those marble squares. Are you cutting those yourself or purchasing them like that?
kevlow
Active Member
I am purchasing them from Home Depot. They come in a plastic and tape bundle of 9 or t10 squares. It was only about $4.00. I wish I had done this a long time ago before corals were stuck to the bottom glass.
Thank you for visiting and posting. It is appreciated.
kevlow
Active Member
Eflux Wave Pump Kit . I purchased these about 2-3 weeks ago.
I have had very little flow in my tank since it was established. I have always been afraid to place MP10s or other comparable systems in because of how shallow the tank is. I did not want direct flow blasting the corals.
Since installing these I cannot believe the difference it is making. Growth is accelerating and everything has a more healthy appearance.
The individual pumps are programmable for both force and duration. So far I would recommend these for someone who is looking.
I have had very little flow in my tank since it was established. I have always been afraid to place MP10s or other comparable systems in because of how shallow the tank is. I did not want direct flow blasting the corals.
Since installing these I cannot believe the difference it is making. Growth is accelerating and everything has a more healthy appearance.
The individual pumps are programmable for both force and duration. So far I would recommend these for someone who is looking.
kevlow
Active Member
I just switched from my phone camera which tints red to my wife's IPad which tends to tint blue. Crazy.
Anyway, I have wanted to photo this little blue acro in the center of the pic. My phone camera could not see the blue and would show it as white and shiny. It is an awesome piece that I bought as a broken tip in the bottom of the shipping box that was received by my LFS.
I don't know the name , just blue acro.
It is encrusting very fast and has nice PE.
Anyway, I have wanted to photo this little blue acro in the center of the pic. My phone camera could not see the blue and would show it as white and shiny. It is an awesome piece that I bought as a broken tip in the bottom of the shipping box that was received by my LFS.
I don't know the name , just blue acro.
It is encrusting very fast and has nice PE.
kevlow
Active Member
Here he is again in the middle of his acro frag forest. A little bit better picture.
Lokani is growing and beginning color up a bit better.
I thought that this might a Chips at one time but I am no longer sure. I posted a pic before but it was with the camera that tinted red. This one might be a more accurate photo.
Lokani is growing and beginning color up a bit better.
I thought that this might a Chips at one time but I am no longer sure. I posted a pic before but it was with the camera that tinted red. This one might be a more accurate photo.
kevlow
Active Member
Not sure what this guy is but he is turning purple with green polyps. He is liking more light but his based darkened when I brought my nitrates up from five to 15/20 Appears to be starting to grow.
Red Planet, a great center piece.
A Green Slimer that has begun to branch rapidly. I really like the little dark blue Milli with very long hairy polyps in the foreground. I traded frags to a LFS for this piece and for the Eflux Wave Pumps. I am extremely pleased with both the pumps and this blue hairy little guy.
Red Planet, a great center piece.
A Green Slimer that has begun to branch rapidly. I really like the little dark blue Milli with very long hairy polyps in the foreground. I traded frags to a LFS for this piece and for the Eflux Wave Pumps. I am extremely pleased with both the pumps and this blue hairy little guy.
kevlow
Active Member
I have shared a picture of my sump yet. It is very simple, a 40 breeder. All open chamber. A skimmer, return pump, a basket with 5 liters of Matrix and powerhead. Unfortunately there is also another light. This kind of kills the effect of being a sump but the family wanted me to keep some specific corals that we had had in previous tanks. I had o space above to keep them so an additional light went over one side of the sump. I also keep one filter sock on the left while the right hand drain hose remains unfiltered.
kevlow
Active Member
I will try to upload at short video of the new EFlux wave pump blowing through my rose milli. The milli is very happy and adding four new growth sprouts on it's right tip.
If this does not play let me know and I will try something else from Photobucket.
http://vid1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc458/kevlow1/VID_20170208_184010.mp4
Click on this bottom link should work. Increaseing my flow has probably been the best thing I have done for my tank in a long time. I was impressed with how easy the controller and two pumps were to set up and program.
If this does not play let me know and I will try something else from Photobucket.
http://vid1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc458/kevlow1/VID_20170208_184010.mp4
Click on this bottom link should work. Increaseing my flow has probably been the best thing I have done for my tank in a long time. I was impressed with how easy the controller and two pumps were to set up and program.
kevlow
Active Member
I am very happy with LEDs in general but I do recognize their limitations. They are not much as far as radiant light; but rather directional light. Not only is shadowing an issue, but this cause directional growth of the corals as well. Also inconsistent par readings. The fall off in par is rather rapid as you move away from the light beam.
To compensate for this you generally must use a few more fixtures then is recommended by the manufacturer. The MH lighting is pure radiant light and the huge reflectors provide light from many angles. T5s provide radiant light coming from long bulbs often the length of the tank. They use reflectors as well . With six and eight bulb units they are often nearly as wide as the tank giving great coverage of radiant light.
I currently use a 32" SBReefLight which I am very impressed with. It is over a 48" wide tank with an overflow box on each end so my horizontal coverage is fairly good. But the fixture is only 9" front to back where as the tank is 24". Even with the fixture 16" above the water line I have sufficient fall off in par along the front and rear of my tank.
I plan to steal a page from the T5 play book. I want the full coverage that the T5s give as well as the low heat, low electric consumption, and adjustability of LEDs. I have ordered a second 32" SBReefLight to hang immediately behind the first unit. This will in effect give me a 32"long by 18" wide fixture. The center 18" of the tnk will have coverage[instead of just nine] running the full distance between the two overflow boxes.
I will keep them hung high to give me good blending. It will allow me the option to dial back the power if needed. 242 diodes will be in play. I will have light covering a large area from many sources instead of the traditional few emitters cranked up and spread thin.
My only complaint that I have had with my current set up is that the prime real estate in my tank is on 9" wide across the center of the tank. That limits me as to how much space can be used for acros. Already they are growing and starting to touch and crowd each other in a few places. The problem will only get worse. Since the tank is so shallow I do not have the option to go up or down in depth.
The limiting factor for most LED owners is the costs. We try to buy what our budgets allow. We consider how much money we have and then how many fixtures we can buy with that money. Coverage is most important. LEDs are basically straight up and down light. Once past the outside edge of the fixture the par drops significantly. And the light is directional, meaning only one side of the coral gets light. This not only affects color but growth pattern as well. The low cost of the SBReefLight makes getting the coverage very afforadable.
I will receive the second fixture in a week or two. I will then begin to get rid of some or the chalice and LPS on the sides of the tank. I will then mount and spread out the acros that I have and probably purchase some additional ones as my addiction compels me to do. I would like to see the acros grow out more fully colored [less shadowing] and more of them in fully shaped mini colonies [ rather then just the ones in the middle of the tank.
I will keep everyone posted as I make the change. I am expecting to have to make use of a par meter to dial back the settings to stay at the desired par. Also the large chalice and LPS colonies being removed will upset the balance of my consumption and dosing routine. The increased light can increase growth rate so that becomes a variable. Right now my scheduled husbandry routine is pretty dialed in. Once I change major factors like doubling light and reducing pieces the whole equation changes. But I believe in the long run this is best for the direction I want to go.
To compensate for this you generally must use a few more fixtures then is recommended by the manufacturer. The MH lighting is pure radiant light and the huge reflectors provide light from many angles. T5s provide radiant light coming from long bulbs often the length of the tank. They use reflectors as well . With six and eight bulb units they are often nearly as wide as the tank giving great coverage of radiant light.
I currently use a 32" SBReefLight which I am very impressed with. It is over a 48" wide tank with an overflow box on each end so my horizontal coverage is fairly good. But the fixture is only 9" front to back where as the tank is 24". Even with the fixture 16" above the water line I have sufficient fall off in par along the front and rear of my tank.
I plan to steal a page from the T5 play book. I want the full coverage that the T5s give as well as the low heat, low electric consumption, and adjustability of LEDs. I have ordered a second 32" SBReefLight to hang immediately behind the first unit. This will in effect give me a 32"long by 18" wide fixture. The center 18" of the tnk will have coverage[instead of just nine] running the full distance between the two overflow boxes.
I will keep them hung high to give me good blending. It will allow me the option to dial back the power if needed. 242 diodes will be in play. I will have light covering a large area from many sources instead of the traditional few emitters cranked up and spread thin.
My only complaint that I have had with my current set up is that the prime real estate in my tank is on 9" wide across the center of the tank. That limits me as to how much space can be used for acros. Already they are growing and starting to touch and crowd each other in a few places. The problem will only get worse. Since the tank is so shallow I do not have the option to go up or down in depth.
The limiting factor for most LED owners is the costs. We try to buy what our budgets allow. We consider how much money we have and then how many fixtures we can buy with that money. Coverage is most important. LEDs are basically straight up and down light. Once past the outside edge of the fixture the par drops significantly. And the light is directional, meaning only one side of the coral gets light. This not only affects color but growth pattern as well. The low cost of the SBReefLight makes getting the coverage very afforadable.
I will receive the second fixture in a week or two. I will then begin to get rid of some or the chalice and LPS on the sides of the tank. I will then mount and spread out the acros that I have and probably purchase some additional ones as my addiction compels me to do. I would like to see the acros grow out more fully colored [less shadowing] and more of them in fully shaped mini colonies [ rather then just the ones in the middle of the tank.
I will keep everyone posted as I make the change. I am expecting to have to make use of a par meter to dial back the settings to stay at the desired par. Also the large chalice and LPS colonies being removed will upset the balance of my consumption and dosing routine. The increased light can increase growth rate so that becomes a variable. Right now my scheduled husbandry routine is pretty dialed in. Once I change major factors like doubling light and reducing pieces the whole equation changes. But I believe in the long run this is best for the direction I want to go.
kevlow
Active Member
I was not going to post anymore until the new additional lighting was up and dialed in. But I came home last night and everything was looking noticeably improved. The colors looked a little brighter and a few more polyps were out. I am not sure as to why, but I sat back and enjoyed it while I had the time. It is so easy to stress on the tank but every once in a while it is good to see some positive results and just enjoy the moment.
I think that reducing the Burgandy Turf algae may have something to do with it. Maybe more nutrients are getting consumed by the coral and not the algae.
I think that reducing the Burgandy Turf algae may have something to do with it. Maybe more nutrients are getting consumed by the coral and not the algae.
kevlow
Active Member
Can anyone help with an ID on this piece??
The arms are whiter and more pale then the camera shows. but the core is showing through as blue and purple. The frag appeared very stressed and pastel looking but I thought it showed a lot of potential.
Even if the commercial comic book name is unknown then I am still interested in what type acro this may be.
Thank you for any help on this one.
The arms are whiter and more pale then the camera shows. but the core is showing through as blue and purple. The frag appeared very stressed and pastel looking but I thought it showed a lot of potential.
Even if the commercial comic book name is unknown then I am still interested in what type acro this may be.
Thank you for any help on this one.
kevlow
Active Member
The second SB Reef Light 32" has arrived. Hopefully I will get this braced together with the other existing unit and hung this weekend.
This will give me well over 300 led emitters in an 18"x 32" area. I will probably be having to turn down the power on each channel some but I would like to create the coverage achieved by T5s. I do not care for the shading and directional growth created by leds, but I do like all the other qualities of using leds.
Hopefully I will have some pics to follow when getting this done.
This will give me well over 300 led emitters in an 18"x 32" area. I will probably be having to turn down the power on each channel some but I would like to create the coverage achieved by T5s. I do not care for the shading and directional growth created by leds, but I do like all the other qualities of using leds.
Hopefully I will have some pics to follow when getting this done.
kevlow
Active Member
Okay, I finally made the addition of the second 32" SB Reef Light to double my amount of LED emitters. I have dialed back the power percentages on each channel until the coral has time to adapt.
My goal has been to create the effect of T5s as far as coverage. It is better to have far more lights and dial them back, then to have a few pucks cranked up to high power. This only created par fall off areas and Led shading effect.
Really what I have wanted is a bigger area with LED emitters shining straight down, rather then light hitting corals from an angle.
My tank is 24" from front to back and I now have 19" of coverage with LED emitters shining straight down. The fixtures are 32" long and they cover the area from my left overflow to my right overflow perfectly, as it is exactly 32".
I hope this addresses what I see as the main weakness in LEDs.
I will be doing some massive rearranging and will post pics later. The huge Blue Chalice in the back left corner just made a trip to the LFS. Hopefully someone buys him whole and he does not get fragged into 50 pieces.
My goal has been to create the effect of T5s as far as coverage. It is better to have far more lights and dial them back, then to have a few pucks cranked up to high power. This only created par fall off areas and Led shading effect.
Really what I have wanted is a bigger area with LED emitters shining straight down, rather then light hitting corals from an angle.
My tank is 24" from front to back and I now have 19" of coverage with LED emitters shining straight down. The fixtures are 32" long and they cover the area from my left overflow to my right overflow perfectly, as it is exactly 32".
I hope this addresses what I see as the main weakness in LEDs.
I will be doing some massive rearranging and will post pics later. The huge Blue Chalice in the back left corner just made a trip to the LFS. Hopefully someone buys him whole and he does not get fragged into 50 pieces.
Crikey! You need to comment a lil more often Id say.Hello All,
I have been reading and following on R2R for a while and have commented a few times. I would like to start this thread documenting the ups and downs of my tank. I have been in the hobby about fourteen years now. I have had several different style and size tanks through the years and have enjoyed them all but I keep coming back to SPS.
Currently, I have a very unique display tank: 4' x 2' x 8". My wife bought it for me as a birthday present which she purchased from a coral vendor.
The shallow depth allows me great freedom to work and clean in the tank but is also forced me to think differently in terms of lighting and space.
My lighting is a 32" SB reef light. I replaced my two Radion XR30 G3 with two Par 30 bulb supplement because of spread issues. I was using wide angle lenses and had them 16 inches above the waterline to get coverage. This reduced my par and acros were not coloring properly. I was going to have to purchase another Radion to get the coverage and par that I wanted. It was easier to purchase one SB Reef Light for a fraction of the cost.
I cannot say enough good about the SB light. I am still at 16 inches with great spread and blending but now I top out at about 450 par instead of 275.
My shallow display holds about 35 gal of water and I keep about 30-35 more in the sump. With a lot of large pieces in only 70 gal of water, I find the system is very volatile and I must really work to maintain stability.
I try to maintain these parameters:
Alk 6.7-7.3
nitrate 5-10 [but colors look best around 20]
phostphate .03-.08 [ this proves to be difficult]
I water change 12 gal a week of ESV salt.
Dosing:
AF Comp 1,2,3 180/200 ml a day
NP Pro 5ml a day
Pro Bio S 3 drops a day
Acro Power .5ml a day
I feed a little Reed Roids and a squirt of Coral Smoothie each day as well as pellets, flakes, mysis , and Larry's Reef Frenzy for the fish.
I also keep 5 liters of Matrix in the sump.
Thank you to everyone who posts. I have learned most everything I know about reef keeping by reading threads on line and then through trial and error.
kevlow
Active Member
I will work on it. First I need to have something worthy to say. lol
I mostly read everyone's comments and follow along, and that is how I have learned most of what little I know. That and trial and error. Lots and lots of error.
kevlow
Active Member
Thank you.
There is a lot of good; nothing really bad, just a few adjustments to a shallow tank. Cleaning and working in the tank is very easy. I only start with half inch to one inch frags so it is a great savings on purchase costs. Understanding light spread and coral placement is the biggest adjustment. Overall this is my favorite tank I have ever had. A shallow lagoon is most commonly done but I liked the idea of trying a full sps reef in 8" of water. Hopefully, I will get to see the rest of the pieces that I keep grow into mature colonies and fill the tank.
Thanks for stopping in and commenting on my thread.
kevlow
Active Member
I picked up the flow as well as adding the additional light. Might as well go for broke while I am making changes. I am amazed at the difference in the tank. Everything seems to have come alive. Picking up the flow might end up being as big as the lighting change. In this shallow tank I have been very uneasy about flow. I have worried about irritating the acros with too much direct flow or blowing water out of the tank. We will see in a couple of days time but I am feeling pretty good about this.
I wish I had better video but this is what I can do off the cheap phone. It is enough for everyone to get the idea of the water movement. Before the polyps barely moved. A better camera will come later this year.
http://vid1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc458/kevlow1/VID_20170305_202522.mp4
I wish I had better video but this is what I can do off the cheap phone. It is enough for everyone to get the idea of the water movement. Before the polyps barely moved. A better camera will come later this year.
kevlow
Active Member
Can anyone help with an ID on this piece??
The arms are whiter and more pale then the camera shows. but the core is showing through as blue and purple. The frag appeared very stressed and pastel looking but I thought it showed a lot of potential.
Even if the commercial comic book name is unknown then I am still interested in what type acro this may be.
Thank you for any help on this one.
I am very happy with this piece. He is coloring up very nicely. I wish every piece made daily progress like this.
