Killing nuisance Algae

Guynesbit · Dec 13, 2016

How do y'all keep nuisance algae from growing in your reef tanks? Go....

Pola0502ds · Dec 13, 2016

Keep Nitrates and Phosphates at low levels

twilliard · Dec 13, 2016

H2O2

ahiggins · Dec 13, 2016

its going to grow regardless, but you can help keep it at bay with good maintenance and QT procedures.

BlueCursor · Dec 13, 2016

Algae is going to grow. You need to keep nutrients low, but that alone won't do it. You need a cleanup crew.

My DT has no algae issue. My refugium has lots of turf algae and some red cyano sometimes. I have no cleanup crew in my fuge, in my DT I have a tuxedo urchin, a Halloween urchin (my best cleanup critter by FAR), a rock urchin, 4 emeralds, about 6 trochus snails. Urchins rock for keeping algae at bay and I have lots of coralline. Sure they eat some coralline, but less coralline and no algae is better than coralline and algae. I have a 100 gal DT.

A local LFS owner goes the snail route. His 300 gal DT has about 100 trochus snails. It's a very clean tank, but man the snails are everywhere.

twilliard · Dec 13, 2016

I wish it would grow regardless
Did you know if you kill ALL of the algae present it will never show its face again

Big Ol +1 on the QT procedures!

BlueCursor · Dec 13, 2016

Algae can get to the tank via the wind. If it couldn't, a tank that has no live rock added would never develop algae during cycling. We all know they do.

Quarantine is not going to stop algae, because you can't prevent it from getting into your tank via the air. I never quarantine my frags before putting them in my tank. Heck, I don't even care if they have algae on the plugs. My cleanup crew just consider it a treat and clean everything up within hours of gluing the plug to a rock.

twilliard · Dec 13, 2016

BlueCursor said:
Algae can get to the tank via the wind. If it couldn't, a tank that has no live rock added would never develop algae during cycling. We all know they do.

Quarantine is not going to stop algae, because you can't prevent it from getting into your tank via the air. I never quarantine my frags before putting them in my tank. Heck, I don't even care if they have algae on the plugs. My cleanup crew just consider it a treat and clean everything up within hours of gluing the plug to a rock.

You do know that this can conclusively be proven wrong right?
Setting in minds that you will have algae no matter what is just incorrect.
Nuisance algae (not diatom related) has to be present in the cellular level to start.
Think of it this way (even though not in a sterile environment) every holding container would be over-run with algae if this statement were to be correct.
We have to support the hope of new tank owners that it is possible to have an algae free tank no matter the nutrient level.

BlueCursor · Dec 13, 2016

If it can be proven wrong then you shouldn't have a problem proving it. I have had algae in saltwater and freshwater tanks before ever introducing anything living, such as live rock, plants, coral, fish, etc.

For example, hair algae reproduces by spores. Spores can blow in the wind and withstand drying out. See this link discussing algae spores entering a tank via the air: http://homeaquaria.com/saltwater-algae-control-the-ultimate-guide/

twilliard · Dec 13, 2016

BlueCursor said:
If it can be proven wrong then you shouldn't have a problem proving it. I have had algae in saltwater and freshwater tanks before ever introducing anything living, such as live rock, plants, coral, fish, etc.

For example, hair algae reproduces by spores. Spores can blow in the wind and withstand drying out. See this link discussing algae spores entering a tank via the air: http://homeaquaria.com/saltwater-algae-control-the-ultimate-guide/

This is absolutley correct, it has to be introduced

Yes I have no issues proving the growth source of algaes
Its my forte

Pola0502ds · Dec 14, 2016

twilliard said:
H2O2

twillard, speaking of H202, I have been searching for a clearly defined process for using H202 to dip my zoa frags in to help remove the algae. I know there are threads on this but one person does it this way another does it that way.. Do you have a process that works? I looking for H202/water mix ratios, how long to dip, any other information, etc..

twilliard · Dec 14, 2016

Pola0502ds said:
twillard, speaking of H202, I have been searching for a clearly defined process for using H202 to dip my zoa frags in to help remove the algae. I know there are threads on this but one person does it this way another does it that way.. Do you have a process that works? I looking for H202/water mix ratios, how long to dip, any other information, etc..

I have not written this up due to the fact that different families of zoanthids react in different ways to H2O2
It is just too risky for my reputation to put information out on dipping zoanthids.

saltyfilmfolks · Dec 14, 2016

Pola0502ds said:
twillard, speaking of H202, I have been searching for a clearly defined process for using H202 to dip my zoa frags in to help remove the algae. I know there are threads on this but one person does it this way another does it that way.. Do you have a process that works? I looking for H202/water mix ratios, how long to dip, any other information, etc..

ive done 10mil to 1 litre on some plain jane and been fine. That said, I know folks who do say never. never.

twilliard · Dec 14, 2016

I have dipped in such a high concentration that it bleached the polyps but low and behold they survive.
Still it is risky business to dip as the concentration has to be high enough to kill the algae.

saltyfilmfolks · Dec 14, 2016

twilliard said:
I have dipped in such a high concentration that it bleached the polyps but low and behold they survive.
Still it is risky business to dip as the concentration has to be high enough to kill the algae.

yea, at $50pp id slow down.

lower dose repeat dips w either peroxide or Revive is likely a safer option. I do use a paint brush/dropper and use full strength peroxide on frag plugs.