Kind of over it!

[Mickie]

Okay...so I'm killing off my bryopsis with the Tech M. Now, I'm dealing with green algae, turf algae and what I thought was a secondary outbreak of diatoms, but now looks like dinoflagellates. what the heck.

Help!

Thanks!

 

[Mickie]

 

[ReeferMaddness843]

What are your nutrience levels (although they may show low, the algae may be consuming before evident in the column)? How much and what do you feed? Tank size and livestock? And lastly, what is your light cycle/setting/model? How old is tank?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

show us......

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

the hubby may be in for some big scrubby.

its just the ugly phase but it may get annoying. its a bummer the bryo an the stiff bristles got in.

 

[Mickie]

What are your nutrience levels (although they may show low, the algae may be consuming before evident in the column)? How much and what do you feed? Tank size and livestock? And lastly, what is your light cycle/setting/model? How old is tank?

pH: 8.2
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Phosphates <.25
Mg 2000
Calcium 500 (I have good coralline growth)
Kh 10
LEDs are on 8 hours , 3 hour ramp up. 50% strength

Right now I cannot change my lights. I'm in contact with support to figure out why they're not responding.

 

[Mickie]

3 clown fed a pinch once a day....cuc, live/dry rock 50/50 of each, live sand. 60 gallon.

 

[ReeferMaddness843]

When you say can't change lights, do you mean the spectrum, intensity, or on/off?

 

[Mickie]

When you say can't change lights, do you mean the spectrum, intensity, or on/off?

Literally everything. I can unplug them. That's it. They will not respond or show up any longer on my phone or my computer (hydra 26 HDs)

 

[ReeferMaddness843]

Ouch. I'm assuming the issue was prior to the lighting condition. Any Windows nearby? Best action I've read for the bryopsis is manual removal and rasping. The turf algae I am unfamiliar with as far as removal, but will research a bit as I'm intrigued now. Hair can treat with peroxide (https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/green-hair-algea-experiment.259421/) Mag, calc, Kh (pending what you're corals will be) may be a little high, but not necessarily the cause of the algaes. The phosphate however, if .25, is a good bit high. That's right at what I believe is harmful to calcified coral. You could run a phosban in attempt to reduce that. I believe ideal is in the .03 ballpark. What type of phos kit do you test with?

 

[Mickie]

Ouch. I'm assuming the issue was prior to the lighting condition. Any Windows nearby? Best action I've read for the bryopsis is manual removal and rasping. The turf algae I am unfamiliar with as far as removal, but will research a bit as I'm intrigued now. Hair can treat with peroxide (https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/green-hair-algea-experiment.259421/) Mag, calc, Kh (pending what you're corals will be) may be a little high, but not necessarily the cause of the algaes. The phosphate however, if .25, is a good bit high. That's right at what I believe is harmful to calcified coral. You could run a phosban in attempt to reduce that. I believe ideal is in the .03 ballpark. What type of phos kit do you test with?

Api

My mg is high to kill the bropsis. So far it's doing a good job.

 

[mcarroll]

I'd like to say that's just a lack of coral growth and it'll get better once corals take off....but are you growing any corals yet?

I didn't see if you mentioned how old the tank is yet?

 

[Mickie]

I'd like to say that's just a lack of coral growth and it'll get better once corals take off....but are you growing any corals yet?

I didn't see if you mentioned how old the tank is yet?

My tank is barely 6 weeks old.

No corals.

 

[mcarroll]

That's why!!!

Too many fish too soon and too much light.

Can't do anything about the fish, just don't add more for a good while!

But you can shut off the lights altogether if you want. Certainly run them at a minimal level. No more than 10,000 #lux.

Once the tank cycles a bit more, coraline algae will have taken over more real estate.

If you don't plan to have corals, I'd plan to carbon dose the tank (e.g. vinegar)...but not for a while.

See if things just settle down after the cleanup crew has had time to munch and coraline algae has had time to march forward. If you do decide to start carbon dosing, start with a very small dose, and don't start unprepared....research!

Adding stony corals would help a lot if you were planning to do that. Don't start unprepared though....research! (They take a while to kick in their effects, too.)

 

[Mickie]

That's why!!!

Too many fish too soon and too much light.

Can't do anything about the fish, just don't add more for a good while!

But you can shut off the lights altogether if you want. Certainly run them at a minimal level. No more than 10,000 #lux.

Once the tank cycles a bit more, coraline algae will have taken over more real estate.

If you don't plan to have corals, I'd plan to carbon dose the tank (e.g. vinegar)...but not for a while.

See if things just settle down after the cleanup crew has had time to munch and coraline algae has had time to march forward. If you do decide to start carbon dosing, start with a very small dose, and don't start unprepared....research!

Adding stony corals would help a lot if you were planning to do that. Don't start unprepared though....research! (They take a while to kick in their effects, too.)

Yeah. From what I've gathered in these past 6 weeks is that my LFS has rushed me. Lol.


Thanks for the info----

 

[jsker]

I would suggest letting the system ride. MG, at 2000' Ca at 500 and phosphates at .25 , let the Mg and Ca come down to a range of 1320Mg and 420 Ca and phosphates below .20 ppm. This will take some time, two two three weeks.
What test kits are you using?

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

Iirc, you also started with "live" rock. who knows what kind of algae roots were lying in wait.

 

[Mickie]

I would suggest letting the system ride. MG, at 2000' Ca at 500 and phosphates at .25 , let the Mg and Ca come down to a range of 1320Mg and 420 Ca and phosphates below .20 ppm. This will take some time, two two three weeks.
What test kits are you using?

Most are api, except the Mg. That one is nyos.

Once my bryopsis is gone, I will be doing water changes to bring down my mg levels to their starting point (1400 ish). I was told it'll take about a month.

I've been looking at some gfo reactors to buy to bring my phos down. I'm assuming most of that is from my dry rock.

 

[Bozoman]

I agree with jsker that it might be best to just ride it out, but it really depends on your system as a whole. More information on your system, sump, skimmer, feeding frequency, type of food, amount, refugium, sand bed depth, grain size, type and number of the various CUC members will be very helpful info.

This is a nutrient issue. Keep a close eye out for Ammonia and Nitrite as well. At this point you want to maximize nutrient export and limit feeding and decay. That means manual removal of algae as often as possible. Your live rock is also probably adjusting to the new environment which causes die off. It could also have high levels of phosphates tied into it which is now being released. A starving CUC which is a pretty common issue for beginners and will exacerbate the problem as they die off. Messing with mineral concentrations 6 weeks in is probably not the best way to go about ridding yourself of these types of algae issues. I would aim at more natural levels of KH, Ca and Mg. You want to establish the bacterial colonies and grow algae remotely that can be harvested and tossed. Heavy skimming will help. Patience and slow progress is the way to win this battle. Drastic measures can, and usually will, mess with other life and that creates a spiral.

I find using a thin hose like rigid plastic pressure hoses used for RO units etc are great for removing cyano without having to do massive water changes every time you siphon it out. Larger water changes is good however but the algae will out pace your water changing.

 

[jsker]

Check your salt, that could be pushing your Mg Ca levels high, you might want to find a salt that the Mg and Ca are at 1340, 420 when do make your water change. Some salt have High Ca and Mg for growth if a system consumes allot of calcium and magnesium

I did make a typo of the phosphates, a good phosphate range is between a trace and .02 ppm not .20.

The reason for the question on what test kits, there are also nitrates in the system along with the phosphates. Have you taken a sample to your local fish store for a test?

I agree with @mcarroll your system is very new and the algae and off parameters are part of a new system cycling and getting used to new bio load of the fish.

I also agree with @Bozoman and my first suggestion let the system ride and let the Mg, Ca fall with normal water changes. I would cut back on feeding, this is causing the high Po'4 and I am guessing No'3 too. As far as test kits goes if you are getting the same readings as the lfs the you are fine with the present test kits. If not they look into the higher end kits that well give a more accurate reading.

Lights
I have the AI Hydra 26 lights, My suggestion is to contact tech support and summit a request. A few months ago one could just call. It sound like what needs to be done is the light need to be reset and re setup on the app and web. Delete the setting on the app and were ever else the light are setup then reset the lights. I purchased my light in March 16 and needed tech support to help me setup my lights, it only took a few minutes of walking me through the setup process. It seemed like using my I pad was easier then using my PC. Once the lights are wiped and re setup one can upload setting from other user and down load setting to save as a back up.

Happy reefing and if you have more question we are here to help