klimfish's SCA 50 Gallon Cube build!

[klimfish]

Hey all! Long story, let's start at the beginning

I was adjusting my Ai HMS mount in my 4 year old biocube 14, and the slight push I gave it relative to the screw strength cracked the tank all the way to the bottom

I was thinking about getting a new tank within the next year, but not exactly this soon. I browsed craigslist and got super lucky with a used (2.5 years old) SCA 50 Gallon Cube w/ Starfire Glass. Beautiful tank, kept by dedicated reefer who needed to get rid of it to move to a new condo to buy and flip. I got a TON of equipment for only 650:

Buying locally was a very good idea, the seller included SO much stuff for next to nothing, I really can't believe how good of a deal this was, I got:

-50g SCA Starfire Glass Cube Aquarium (24" x 24" x 20")
-Matching Black Stand
-Matching Glass Sump
-Metal rimmed screen w/ netting, replacement netting, and tool
-Jebao DC Return Pump (upgraded, not sure on the model, said it was so much flow he never turned it above 2)
-All sump plumbing (including improvements)
-SCA-301 Protein Skimmer and pump (Is this thing any good?)
-UV Sterilizer and pump (can't tell what brand this is? Long and oval shaped...)
-Cobalt Aquatics 150w Neo-Therm Heater
-BRS GFO and Carbon Mini Reactor 5" and pump
-1lb 90% full BRS GFO
-1.5lb 100% full BRS ROX 0.8 Carbon
-10 extra filter socks
-2 Used Koralia 425's
-1 Brand new Koralia 425!!!
-Grounding plug
-Magnetic frag rack
-2 month old BRS 75GPD RO/DI 4 Stage system!!!
-AutoAqua Smart ATO Micro
-5 gallon black acrylic ATO reservoir with filling lid
-Aiptasia X
-2 very long algae scrapers

All for 650!

In addition to what I'm bringing to this new relationship...

-Jebao SLW-10 Wavemaker
-AI Hydra 32HD
-Cobalt Aquatics AccuTherm 50w heater

All my old standard pumps from the 14g Biocube will be used to circulate water change water and pump it into the new tank ha!

Here are some pics, more to come soon!

Comparison of location and size of old tank compared to the new:

Old Biocube 14:

New Beauty:

Now...on to some issues!!

I'm noticing during my water test a few things...

1. There is a small amount of water forming on the dry side of the return bulkhead underneath the tank. Slightly around where the bulkhead meets the glass and also appearing on the threads. This is one of 3 bulkheads and the only one doing this...Tips on how to fix? Do I need to fix?

2. My floors in my apartment are NOT level The tank has plastic feet in all four corners, so I'm not sure the best way to level this thing...is it super necessary to be level? The left side sits 1/2" lower than the right, and the front sits about 1/4" lower than the rear...


Another question, my old corals and live rock are in a 5 gal bucket with a heater, hydra32 above it, ATO attached, and a small wavemwaker pump...how long can they last like this while I get the new tank set up?

Also, want to see more pics? I'm sitting by the tank right now and can easily upload anything! it's a total mess right now haha

 

[siggy]

Take apart and clean real well and try again. You may need a new bulk head or seals, look at the treads to see if they have been cross threaded.

Nice day to work on a new tank

 

[klimfish]

Nice day to work on a new tank

Thank you! I'm going to drain it completely tomorrow morning and take a look at things. How do I drain out the overflow chamber completely/easily in order to take a look at things? Will the bulkheads screw right off? Will I need anything special to reattach them?

 

[GabeM]

I have that exact tank and it looks like you got a good deal.

If the bulkheads can be unthreaded I would replace the rubber grommets on them - SCA may sell you some directly.

Also that skimmer barely functions - I would put that high on the list of things to replace.

 

[Barrett]

Yes the tank has to be level especially since it is rimless, you can use shims under the feet to get it level. I have this same tank and love it

 

[klimfish]

I have that exact tank and it looks like you got a good deal.

If the bulkheads can be unthreaded I would replace the rubber grommets on them - SCA may sell you some directly.

Also that skimmer barely functions - I would put that high on the list of things to replace.

Thanks! I'll take a look at the bulkheads tomorrow, I'm tempted to just replace this one entirely.

If I do have a worst case scenario where there is a crack in the glass near the bulkhead, is that something that a properly fitted bulkhead can still work with? Am I screwed if this is the case?

I'll look into a new Skimmer ASAP. Any recommendations?

Yes the tank has to be level especially since it is rimless, you can use shims under the feet to get it level. I have this same tank and love it

Thanks! Any advice on shims to purchase to put under the feet?

 

[Jefdav84]

Yep I have the same tank as well, and has been up about 2 months. You certainly got a great deal with all of the extra equipment added in.

I responded to your other thread about the issue with the leaking water. I agree with what Gabe said. just loosen, and re-thread the bulkhead. And also possibly look in to getting the rubber washers replaced.

I thought about getting an slw-10 at one point, but ended up with an SOW-8. I think for now i have enough flow from that as its not even at 50% power capacity. Id be curious on your thoughts on the SLW-10 when you get the tank up and running.

I also just upgraded from a blackbox to a Hydra 32 last night on my tank. So far I am liking it so we will see how it goes. I am curious on which mount you have for the Hydra 32. I have the AI HMS mount, and i kind of had to reverse the clamp to go on the outside of the tank due to the return T being in the way on the overflow.

 

[klimfish]

Yep I have the same tank as well, and has been up about 2 months. You certainly got a great deal with all of the extra equipment added in.

I responded to your other thread about the issue with the leaking water. I agree with what Gabe said. just loosen, and re-thread the bulkhead. And also possibly look in to getting the rubber washers replaced.

I thought about getting an slw-10 at one point, but ended up with an SOW-8. I think for now i have enough flow from that as its not even at 50% power capacity. Id be curious on your thoughts on the SLW-10 when you get the tank up and running.

I also just upgraded from a blackbox to a Hydra 32 last night on my tank. So far I am liking it so we will see how it goes. I am curious on which mount you have for the Hydra 32. I have the AI HMS mount, and i kind of had to reverse the clamp to go on the outside of the tank due to the return T being in the way on the overflow.

Cool, I'm draining the tank right now, what's the best/easiest way to get all that water out of the overflow so I can check the bulkhead without taking a shower?

I'll definitely keep you updated on the SLW-10. I had to keep it at it's lowest setting in my Biocube, so I wonder how it will stack up here.

I love my Hydra32! I'll also keep this thread updated on how the mounting goes. One step at a time

 

[Barrett]

I like to use plastic shins like these

Shepherd Wedge-It White Plastic Shims (6 per Pack) 9435 - The Home Depot

The Shepherd Wedge-It White Plastic Shims (6-Pack) are great for construction, plumbing, wood cabinets, furniture and for bracing items that tilt, move or are loose. The plastic construction is impervious

www.homedepot.com

 

[Jefdav84]

Cool, I'm draining the tank right now, what's the best/easiest way to get all that water out of the overflow so I can check the bulkhead without taking a shower?

I'll definitely keep you updated on the SLW-10. I had to keep it at it's lowest setting in my Biocube, so I wonder how it will stack up here.

I love my Hydra32! I'll also keep this thread updated on how the mounting goes. One step at a time

There was no easy way for me to do it that I saw either. I basically just let it all drain into the the sump, and then just soaked up most of the rest with a rag.

 

[klimfish]

Come to think of it I think I could change this from a Durso overflow to a Herbie overflow... there is a capped 3rd bulkhead, capped as in there is a PVC pipe coming up into the overflow from the 3rd unused hole, but much lower already drilled bulkhead on the right and I think if I take that and put a herbie filter on it and take the U-shaped off of the durso So that it acts as the emergency drain... so that I could turn it into a Herbie overflow after I add return plumbing to the Herbie side is it that simple ??

 

[Jefdav84]

Come to think of it I think I could change this from a Durso overflow to a Herbie overflow... there is a capped 3rd bulkhead, capped as in there is a PVC pipe coming up into the overflow from the 3rd unused hole, but much lower already drilled bulkhead on the right and I think if I take that and put a herbie filter on it and take the U-shaped off of the durso So that it acts as the emergency drain... so that I could turn it into a Herbie overflow after I add return plumbing to the Herbie side is it that simple ??

Yea you can. Give me a couple of minutes and I will get some pics of my overflow, and plumbing underneath.

 

[Barrett]

Yes that is the way this tank is intended to run.

 

[Jefdav84]

From left to right. Main drain (still need to get a strainer), Return T, Emergency Drain

I have the main drain and emergency drain going to the left compartment. The return pump is in the 3rd compartment.

 

[klimfish]

Awesome, thanks for the pics! I just got back from the hardware store, I have everything I need to set this up, the **** bulkhead nut for what will be emergency return (the one that had a slight leak) is super stuck, i can't get the nut to move at all but I can twist the entire bulkhead, so it's definitely loose on the glass. What's the easiest way to get at this thing?

EDIT: NVM, I got it loose finally! The previous owner glued the pvc to the bulkhead, so I'm going to cut the pipe just above the union that's currently there using my new tool from lowes, then clean the pipe and bulkhead and gasket, then reinstall into the tank, then use a new union. Lowe's didn't have any bulkheads so I wasn't able to get an extra to just use that, but I may order all new bulkheads from BRS and install those at a later date.

 

[klimfish]

Phew what a night, after 8 hours! I did very careful plumbing, cleaning the bottom of the overflow where the holes are drilled, measuring (3 times each piece!!), cutting and glueing PVC for the new Herbie drain, getting blisters from trying to tighten the bulkheads by hand to prevent future leaks, and my cat getting very jealous!

I then filled with tap water from the sink with this green attachment thing the seller gave me, so no buckets! I added about 3 gallons of vinegar, and filled with slightly warm water. (I heard heat helps with vinegar's cleaning action) I should have the RODI unit from him by the end of the week once he uninstalls it.

And now, some pics!

We're wet in all the right places! Dry in all the right places. I left the tank overnight after not observing ANY leaks from the bulkheads or new PVC plumbing, and I woke up the morning to everything that should be dry is! Now I'm working on dialing in the water level in the overflow using my ball valve...kinda tedious but I have it very close. May have to run the Herbie emergency drain dry by like 1/8" of an inch so I don't go insane trying to adjust it.

I also threw my old non-HD AI Prime on the sump, I'll use that as a fuge light for chaeto in the future. I'm glad I held on to it for so long!

The new drain/ball valve are right behind the prime. I know the water level is low, this was while adjusting the overflow. Now the sump is just barely over half full, is that ideal? I guess I'll find out when I do my power outage/clogged drain tests! Half full should be fine by my math so far...

Here are some more shots, I gotta run to work. My girlfriend comes home from out of the country tonight, so I may not have an update posted for a couple days.

Next steps are draining the tank, leveling it, and hopefully adding RODI water and salt ASAP! My corals are bored of the white bucket they've been in for 5 days now. Ha!

Quick questions:

1. I want to run bleach through this whole system, I want it CLEAN!! How much plain regular bleach should I pour in, how long should I run it, and what's the best way to prepare the tank for inhabitants after running bleach through the system?

2. Are par meter readings between fresh/saltwater accurate? I have 2 days left on my par meter rental from BRS, but I don't think I'll get the RODI unit in time to fill with saltwater before I need to return it...do I extend the rental or just take the readings in freshwater to get a general idea?

3. How necessary is a leveling mat underneath the tank? I can easily get a 1/2" yoga mat if needed.

More pics:

Quick questions:

1. I want to run bleach through this whole system, I want it CLEAN!! How much plain regular bleach should I pour in, how long should I run it, and what's the best way to prepare the tank for inhabitants after running bleach through the system?

2. Are par meter readings between fresh/saltwater accurate? I have 2 days left on my par meter rental from BRS, but I don't think I'll get the RODI unit in time to fill with saltwater before I need to return it...do I extend the rental or just take the readings in freshwater to get a general idea?

3. How necessary is a leveling mat underneath the tank? I can easily get a 1/2" yoga mat if needed

 

[klimfish]

Did some research and answered 2 of my own questions..

1a. No, don't do that, might be fine, but probably doesn't do that much extra than 72 hours in vinegar and tap water will do.

3a. Yeah, should probably do that.

Anyone know about the par meter? Are par meter readings between fresh/saltwater accurate? I have 2 days left on my par meter rental from BRS, but I don't think I'll get the RODI unit in time to fill with saltwater before I need to return it...do I extend the rental or just take the readings in freshwater to get a general idea?

 

[Barrett]

Just saw this, yes I would definitely put some sort of leveling mat under the tank. I’m not sure about the par meter question but you will also want to check par when you have your sand and rock structure in. That way you have a better idea for coral placement.

 

[Barrett]

Do you have a local club that you can join? The local club here has a par meter for members use.

 

[klimfish]

I ended up keeping the PAR meter for another week for 50 bucks. Seemed worth it to me in the long run to not need to rent another in the future. I'll attach some pics tonight, the aquascape is almost completely done, but I need some more rock!

Corals are out of the bucket and adjusting happily to their new home on a frag rack until I can decide where I want to place them based on PAR and flow.

What's the best way to get high flow around the corners of my center overflow to the top rocks that rest against it for SPS in the future? I like having the pumps on the back wall on either side of the overflow for aesthetics, but it's hard to tell if much flow is actually getting to the area with the most PAR...

Par readings are good, I'm running a Hydra32HD using BRS AB+, only I raised the output of each channel except red and green by about 8% to take advantage of the higher power of the 32HD compared to the 26HD models.

I get about 250-300 par in the upper rocks, 150-200 par in the middle depth area, and the bottom ranges from 60-125 depending on how far from the center of the tank I move the PAR meter, not bad! I'd like to get 200-250 par in the middle area of the tank too, but I'm not sure this light can handle that without drastically upping my white channel, I may try and report back.

Another thing, my Skimmer seems to be working, but every night I come check the sump and the bubbles have bubbled out of the collection cup and seem to "open" the lid to it on their own. Am I skimming too wet? What does a "tuned" skimmer look like while in use? I'm getting a slightly dark skimmate, translucent , not nearly as dark as I've seen others but I also have almost no waste in the tank right now, with no fish and only a few trochus snails.

here's a few pics!