Klir Filter Review.

[pecan2phat]

It's the 2nd roller guide before the fleece goes down into the cage portion. Might be a few days before I can get you a pic.
Basically, you are trying to provide some tension there so that when the water starts to rise from dirty fleece, the fleece stays taunt to keep the water area in the cage from seeping out the sides which usually happens on the clean roll side of the cage near the top portion. (If this happens to your unit)

 

[Steve2020]

It's the 2nd roller guide before the fleece goes down into the cage portion. Might be a few days before I can get you a pic.
Basically, you are trying to provide some tension there so that when the water starts to rise from dirty fleece, the fleece stays taunt to keep the water area in the cage from seeping out the sides which usually happens on the clean roll side of the cage near the top portion. (If this happens to your unit)

Thanks. Appreciate the info. Curious on how you mounted the piece of tubing.

 

[pecan2phat]

So here you go Steve.
Please be aware that this is for a DI-4 and I'm not sure if the spacing/tolerance between the roller guide and assembly wall will be the same for a DI-7 so tubing variance should be considered.
I used 1/2" OD / 3/8" ID silicone tubing cut to fit the inside of the top hinged frame assembly width that is parallel to the roller guide.


So this is the tubing stuffed between the 2nd roller guide and the front opening of the top frame. The solid corner layout keeps the tubing in place. I further utilized an old ceramic impeller shaft that happened to fit between the roller guide holder and hinged part of the lid. This did 2 thing s for me, it kept the top assembly from opening on it's hinges which I hate because then you have to make sure the fleece is not pinched when placing back into the sock hole (I have enough clearance to pull my unit out without having to hinge it 90º) and it also gave me an avenue to adjust how much tension was applied. If I move the impeller shaft up it would have more tension on the fleece and down it would have less. I don't know if you need this since it might not be easy to find something like that lying around and have the length required for a DI-7. The silicone tubing might just do it but at least you know what you would need to create more tension if required.


You had inquired about the older or original design vs the present design, I just happen to have an extra original cage to show you the difference in the roller guide height. As I had mentioned earlier, the original design kept the fleece more taut in the cage area because of the radical 90º turn IMO but also most likely attributed to tearing/snagging also.


Hope this helps

 

[pecan2phat]

Also I just realized that while the ceramic impeller shaft keeps the top assembly from easily opening when grabbed from the top, it also keeps the silicone tubing in place since if the top is hinged open the tubing would likely fall out of place. Not sure if this would work for you if hinging the unit 90º is the way you put in and take out your unit due to clearance.
Just an after thought.

 

[Steve2020]

So here you go Steve.
Please be aware that this is for a DI-4 and I'm not sure if the spacing/tolerance between the roller guide and assembly wall will be the same for a DI-7 so tubing variance should be considered.
I used 1/2" OD / 3/8" ID silicone tubing cut to fit the inside of the top hinged frame assembly width that is parallel to the roller guide.


So this is the tubing stuffed between the 2nd roller guide and the front opening of the top frame. The solid corner layout keeps the tubing in place. I further utilized an old ceramic impeller shaft that happened to fit between the roller guide holder and hinged part of the lid. This did 2 thing s for me, it kept the top assembly from opening on it's hinges which I hate because then you have to make sure the fleece is not pinched when placing back into the sock hole (I have enough clearance to pull my unit out without having to hinge it 90º) and it also gave me an avenue to adjust how much tension was applied. If I move the impeller shaft up it would have more tension on the fleece and down it would have less. I don't know if you need this since it might not be easy to find something like that lying around and have the length required for a DI-7. The silicone tubing might just do it but at least you know what you would need to create more tension if required.


You had inquired about the older or original design vs the present design, I just happen to have an extra original cage to show you the difference in the roller guide height. As I had mentioned earlier, the original design kept the fleece more taut in the cage area because of the radical 90º turn IMO but also most likely attributed to tearing/snagging also.


Hope this helps

Very smart idea. I will give it a try in a few days. Appreciate it. One of the things I did with mine is I glued the plate gasket in place because I notice that it moves a little out of place with water flow and allowed water to seep thru.

 

[pecan2phat]

Yes the plate gasket is a PIA. I need to manipulate it with my hand under the sock hole just to make sure it has a seal every time the unit is moved but gluing it down makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the idea.

 

[pecan2phat]

May I ask what type of glue did you use to secure the gasket to the ring plate?
I was thinking aquarium safe silicone or cyanoacrylate gel?

 

[Steve2020]

May I ask what type of glue did you use to secure the gasket to the ring plate?
I was thinking aquarium safe silicone or cyanoacrylate gel?

BRS Cyanoacrylate Gel. I put about 8-10 small drops about 1/2" from the edge.

 

[Steve2020]

So here you go Steve.
Please be aware that this is for a DI-4 and I'm not sure if the spacing/tolerance between the roller guide and assembly wall will be the same for a DI-7 so tubing variance should be considered.
I used 1/2" OD / 3/8" ID silicone tubing cut to fit the inside of the top hinged frame assembly width that is parallel to the roller guide.


So this is the tubing stuffed between the 2nd roller guide and the front opening of the top frame. The solid corner layout keeps the tubing in place. I further utilized an old ceramic impeller shaft that happened to fit between the roller guide holder and hinged part of the lid. This did 2 thing s for me, it kept the top assembly from opening on it's hinges which I hate because then you have to make sure the fleece is not pinched when placing back into the sock hole (I have enough clearance to pull my unit out without having to hinge it 90º) and it also gave me an avenue to adjust how much tension was applied. If I move the impeller shaft up it would have more tension on the fleece and down it would have less. I don't know if you need this since it might not be easy to find something like that lying around and have the length required for a DI-7. The silicone tubing might just do it but at least you know what you would need to create more tension if required.


You had inquired about the older or original design vs the present design, I just happen to have an extra original cage to show you the difference in the roller guide height. As I had mentioned earlier, the original design kept the fleece more taut in the cage area because of the radical 90º turn IMO but also most likely attributed to tearing/snagging also.


Hope this helps

So, because the Klir-7 is a little different besides size than the Klir-4, I was unable to copy your modification using rubber tubing but based upon your modification it gave me an idea to make another roller that will allow the fleece to lay flat. I checked the tension and by feel there is no difference, so the motor should not struggle. I will put it in the sump tomorrow and test it out but it should work fine.

 

[bluerider098]

What's the water level like in relation to the bottom of the filter roller. If your water level is too low you are going to get a ton of bypass. The lower half of mine is entirely submerged. After 2 years almost no detritus in my sump.

 

[Steve2020]

What's the water level like in relation to the bottom of the filter roller. If your water level is too low you are going to get a ton of bypass. The lower half of mine is entirely submerged. After 2 years almost no detritus in my sump.

Water level is 1/2" from the base plate so that was not the issue. I could physically see the water passing by on the backside of the fleece especially during return pump restarts after feed modes. Don't quote me on this but the older units used to have the roller further back not allowing water to bypass but due to complaints of fleece tearing supposedly due to friction they moved the 2nd roller more forward at least from what I have heard and the photos and videos I have seen.

 

[Steve2020]

What's the water level like in relation to the bottom of the filter roller. If your water level is too low you are going to get a ton of bypass. The lower half of mine is entirely submerged. After 2 years almost no detritus in my sump.

This is threaded with the original roller and as you can see it is physically impossible for water not to enter the back side of the fleece due to the gaps where water can flow. Just saying.

 

[bluerider098]

This is threaded with the original roller and as you can see it is physically impossible for water not to enter the back side of the fleece due to the gaps where water can flow. Just saying.

I see what you getting at, but what your showing is with no tension on the fleece from the water. I am not trying to argue, just relating my 2 years of experience with it. I have not had any of the issues you are having so I was just trying to help.

Not saying it's the case here, but I think many problems people have is user error and it disturbs me to see them bashing the product so I will often try to help them fix the issues.

I will say that the Coral Vue customer service is pretty much clueless about the unit, and proper setup.

Hope you get it working to your satisfaction. Good luck.

 

[Steve2020]

I see what you getting at, but what your showing is with no tension on the fleece from the water. I am not trying to argue, just relating my 2 years of experience with it. I have not had any of the issues you are having so I was just trying to help.

Not saying it's the case here, but I think many problems people have is user error and it disturbs me to see them bashing the product so I will often try to help them fix the issues.

I will say that the Coral Vue customer service is pretty much clueless about the unit, and proper setup.

Hope you get it working to your satisfaction. Good luck.

I agree that some of the issues people have are self inflicted especially when it comes to the the sensor. Splash is not the fault of the Klir lol. I understand what you are saying about no tension on the fleece from water but water tension will not help the issue in my view. If the fleece is not lying flat, the detritus will collect on the backside of the fleece and over time when the fleece advances it is now under water and because the water is being pushed outward it washes that detritus that was on the outside of the fleece into the sump. It's just like turning a filter sock inside out and running water thru it.
I am just trying to make the product better and keep my sump from getting too dirty to fast.
The Idea of the Klir working without modifying your sump or plumbing is a great idea and is why I wanted to try one. It just has a couple faults in the design that I feel could be corrected with a little more thought put into it.
No way was I going to attempt to modify a $3300 sump for one of the other Fleece Filter Rollers.

 

[pecan2phat]

Great mod Steve, I love it!
Bluerider, is your 2 year old unit with the raised 2nd roller or is it low and almost touching the base plate? I have both versions and not saying the original did not seep at all but a lot less then with the latest version.

 

[Steve2020]

Great mod Steve, I love it!
Bluerider, is your 2 year old unit with the raised 2nd roller or is it low and almost touching the base plate? I have both versions and not saying the original did not seep at all but a lot less then with the latest version.

All based on your idea. I am also thinking about adding some thin Lexan that I have on hand too the opening to also reduce the amount of detritus that could get to the outside of the fleece. Will make threading a new roll a challenge but it can be done. Also still thinking about modifying the other side to make the fleece lay more flat.

 

[bluerider098]

Great mod Steve, I love it!
Bluerider, is your 2 year old unit with the raised 2nd roller or is it low and almost touching the base plate? I have both versions and not saying the original did not seep at all but a lot less then with the latest version.

No modifications to mine other than sanding any sharp edges on the fleece guides.

The only thing I did was make a Acrylic adaptor plate for the whole unit to fit better in my sock holes. Waterbox has a special sock size, it's close to 4", but not exactly.

 

[pecan2phat]

So then you have the original design albeit the revised bottom cage rollers. You need to experience the latest model to understand why there is no tension on the fleece roll hence so much seepage.

 

[bluerider098]

So then you have the original design albeit the revised bottom cage rollers. You need to experience the latest model to understand why there is no tension on the fleece roll hence so much seepage.

Looks like I have the newer design. The older design does look interesting. I just don't have an issue with a bunch of stuff getting past the roller. Below is a picture of my unit and the chamber below it. This is about 6 weeks or so of accumulation.

 

[usorider]

Has anyone used the magnetic mount to position the sensor elsewhere ?