Lanthanum Chloride

I dose into the overflow boxes on mine. goes straight to the filter socks and skimmer chamber. my 80 gallon system and I dose 1ML every few days to lower. and dont dose if I am in the correct ranges.
 
Do you does continuously or only when you want to reduce phosphate?

Dosage is a little higher than what I use, but pretty close. I dose 10 ml in one gallon of water and drip into filter sock usually about one drip per second or a little slower. I am using a small submerged pump inside my sump to send water through the filter sock.
 
These are all small fish which should not be a large bioload for a 200 gallon tank with tons of liverock. Also, I feed only enough food that can be consumed in a minute or so.

I'm not sure that I understand if there is a question here or not, but in terms of phosphate added to reef aquarium water, it doesn't much matter if the food is eaten, or just rots on the bottom. Nearly all of the phosphate in it ends up in the water anyway. :)

That said, not feeding more than is optimal for nutrition limits the total delivered to the water. :)
 
Do you does continuously or only when you want to reduce phosphate?
I usually check chemistry on the weekend. Most of the time I need to do another gallon of LACL as PO4 levels get around .09. After dosing they go down to around .02.
 
What levels do you consider natural?

Natural reefs typically have levels of nitrate and phosphate below levels many kits can detect.

That doesn't mean it is optimal, if we are not supplying adequate nutrition in other ways, but it might be called natural. :)
Completely agree Randy, but I also think that many people test for a result and miss the point that they are actually measuring residual in the case of nitrate and phosphate especially. The "near 0" or "0" reading in nature means one thing, but I see so many folks that think a 0 reading in their tanks means they need to bump their numbers when it might actually not. Sorry if that isn't clear, but maybe a better way of putting it is 0 could mean a deficit or it could mean just enough for all to be consumed without residual. I would love to hear your thoughts on that. Thank you
 
Completely agree Randy, but I also think that many people test for a result and miss the point that they are actually measuring residual in the case of nitrate and phosphate especially. The "near 0" or "0" reading in nature means one thing, but I see so many folks that think a 0 reading in their tanks means they need to bump their numbers when it might actually not. Sorry if that isn't clear, but maybe a better way of putting it is 0 could mean a deficit or it could mean just enough for all to be consumed without residual. I would love to hear your thoughts on that. Thank you

I understand that nutrients can be low for many reasons, including that certain organisms are using them up. That's also true of the ocean. :)

BUT, just because nutrients may be used up by one organism down to a certain level, that doesn't mean there is enough for some other organism in the system that might not be as adept at taking up nutrients. :)
 
guys... what brand of lanthanum chloride are you using.. I only find seaklear but it contains copper. any suggestions... esepcially on amazon


thanks
 
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That Amazon link is not the right stuff. What you want is below:
https://www.ebay.com/p/SeaKlear-1040105-Phosphate-Remover-Commercial-QT/2254546775
upload_2017-12-25_8-58-21.png


 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
I see the confusion now. The algae cleaner is an additive that uses copper. TMB linked the Seaklear without the additive and should be OK to use.
 
Thank you guys. That makes sense now.

Merry Christmas
 

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