Large water Change
- Thread starter fernalfer
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Nice, at least we have a compare to help narrow.
So if nitrate in a new tank comes from
- current bio loading (including feed input and animal waste)
-stored up waste
-leftovers from ammonia digest testing
Where's the source for it in your setup it looks nice n clean, low bioload?
So if nitrate in a new tank comes from
- current bio loading (including feed input and animal waste)
-stored up waste
-leftovers from ammonia digest testing
Where's the source for it in your setup it looks nice n clean, low bioload?
OP
OP
fernalfer
Valuable Member
The only place it can come from is from ghost feeding pellets and flake food in a mesh bag to feed current bacteria. And it's not that much. So I'm unsure of the high nitrates
And even that nitrate source remains optional...so easy fix here.
was mentioned in a prior thread that no support of existing bac is required, after presence is verified. So it's ok to keep pumping nitrate into the tank or not, no harm either way. If you stop putting the waste in the tank to lower nitrate, the bacteria keep growing in numbers anyway
Now if you add antibiotic meds, that's different... We aren't really withholding feed even if it seems that way> how bacteria get feed anyway is amazing and shows how they've adapted all this time
Even if you raise the nitrate further there's only an algae consequence it won't stop you from reefing when you choose to start. The causes and fixes of all nitrate and ammonia issues are always the same tank to tank.
It's ok to large water change and keep the rotting feed in the tank, which slowly creeps nitrate back up, or, do a large water change and put no rot in the tank and start reefing when your ammonia digests allow-even if that means three more months w no feed, the bac grow not retroscale.
was mentioned in a prior thread that no support of existing bac is required, after presence is verified. So it's ok to keep pumping nitrate into the tank or not, no harm either way. If you stop putting the waste in the tank to lower nitrate, the bacteria keep growing in numbers anyway
Now if you add antibiotic meds, that's different... We aren't really withholding feed even if it seems that way> how bacteria get feed anyway is amazing and shows how they've adapted all this time
Even if you raise the nitrate further there's only an algae consequence it won't stop you from reefing when you choose to start. The causes and fixes of all nitrate and ammonia issues are always the same tank to tank.
It's ok to large water change and keep the rotting feed in the tank, which slowly creeps nitrate back up, or, do a large water change and put no rot in the tank and start reefing when your ammonia digests allow-even if that means three more months w no feed, the bac grow not retroscale.
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OP
OP
fernalfer
Valuable Member
So basically your saying if i don't feed the tank at all that the bacteria will continue to grow? That's where there is so much conflict about this issue because some say that and some say if there is nothing in the tank meaning fish then the bacteria need an ammonia soucre or they will begin to die out.
To bad their was not a clean cut and dry answer on this. It seems to be almost 50/50. Some say you do not need to provide an ammonia source and some say you absolutely do.
My take comes from working with bac in a bac lab so our steaks don't poison us much past one out of every 10 lol
To run a processing plant you have to maintain effluent ponds and the govt tests them to compare to your nitrification reports among others...slaughterhouse game it is.
Our nitrifiers are still among generalized aerobes, all sharing similar traits.
the rules governing generalized aerobic bacterial contamination/self support means apply to nitrifiers as well...other bacteria get in the tank and die/become ammonia. We fought bacterial scums on a daily basis on polished metal surfaces...to add any extra convolutions or surface area (as reefs do) would make the job of sterilization impossible given a running tank. bacterial growth does slow down in cycles when we withhold, but never stops. In two years of withholding feed, there'd be plenty nitrifiers and various scums and items that got in and degraded...but we are talking weeks time frame for your tank, already verified ammonia digestion I assume...withholding feed will not hurt, keeping spiked nitrates won't hurt.
Gnats
Human skin cells and current scums and organic for the feed are all part of ongoing feed input. General contamination
The key is how much bac were verified before the pause, by what method was the cycle assessed
there is certainly no harm in feeding. All the stuff we nerd over in reefing is usually inconsequential in six mos
To run a processing plant you have to maintain effluent ponds and the govt tests them to compare to your nitrification reports among others...slaughterhouse game it is.
Our nitrifiers are still among generalized aerobes, all sharing similar traits.
the rules governing generalized aerobic bacterial contamination/self support means apply to nitrifiers as well...other bacteria get in the tank and die/become ammonia. We fought bacterial scums on a daily basis on polished metal surfaces...to add any extra convolutions or surface area (as reefs do) would make the job of sterilization impossible given a running tank. bacterial growth does slow down in cycles when we withhold, but never stops. In two years of withholding feed, there'd be plenty nitrifiers and various scums and items that got in and degraded...but we are talking weeks time frame for your tank, already verified ammonia digestion I assume...withholding feed will not hurt, keeping spiked nitrates won't hurt.
Gnats
Human skin cells and current scums and organic for the feed are all part of ongoing feed input. General contamination
The key is how much bac were verified before the pause, by what method was the cycle assessed
there is certainly no harm in feeding. All the stuff we nerd over in reefing is usually inconsequential in six mos
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Very interesting your concern, you did very thing right and time to do water change to low down the nitrate is perfect. I think 50% w/c is enough but i believe you already do more than that.
Are you use ro/di water or tap water?
Can you test Nitrate after mix fresh saltwater before put it in the tank?
Are you use ro/di water or tap water?
Can you test Nitrate after mix fresh saltwater before put it in the tank?
