Leak alarm woke me up

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I woke up to the sound of my apex alarm (terrifying btw) as the leak detection was wet. Found this leaking bulkhead after several weeks of it running without issue.
4B281EFF-8116-4277-9C49-E38B8ED156A9.jpeg

When I drilled the tank, I cracked the glass but repaired the crack with epoxy after the bulkhead was installing. Now the bulkhead is covered in marine grade epoxy where it meets the glass. I don’t want to tighten the nut anymore as its already tight and could lead to further damage.
7F8A771D-1BFF-4271-BC35-70769E5802BC.jpeg B8F9485B-AA20-402B-B6B0-BDEC4F883EEF.jpeg
So I can’t disassemble the bulkhead, It wont go any tighter and it just sprung a leak, what do you experienced reefers recommend? Anything other than completely tearing it out?? Flex seal spray? Flex seal paste? More PVC Primer and glue around the bulkhead? I know these are not great options but the idea of a full tear out and new tank makes me shudder at this point.

The system is running on one tank now, I turned the return manifold to the leaking tank off and tossed a heater in there to limp it along. 5712FA6F-A50F-4F38-A530-F891711CD155.jpeg
Any comment is much appreciated
 
Since you used the epoxy, I'm not sure if this will help... but if you tighten the bulkhead nut too much, it can actually squeeze the gasket (which should be on the flange side) too much and can cause a leak. You might try loosening it and then retightening but not excessively.
 
Since you used the epoxy, I'm not sure if this will help... but if you tighten the bulkhead nut too much, it can actually squeeze the gasket (which should be on the flange side) too much and can cause a leak. You might try loosening it and then retightening but not excessively.
Ill try to get a tool on the nut but I have to do some serious sump yoga just to get my hand back in there. But I understand what you mean with over tightening possibly causing the gasket to get crushed or pinched.

Any movement on that bulkheads pipe makes it worse.

So far all my attempts to get a tool on the nut have failed. If I remove the manifold and rollermat I could get in there better but the system will likely die completely.

Im completely stumped and worried
 
if the cracked glass went all the way to one of the seams it could be the beginning of a much larger seam failure. It is going to be hard to see where exactly the leak is coming from. If loosening the bulkhead and retightening doesnt work it is most likely due to the crack itself and will then need the entire bottom panel replaced, or just replacing the whole tank.
 
Before you loosen or tighten I would drain the overflow box then try to tighten and slowly fill back the overflow. I'm sure people will tell you to use Flex seal or epoxy. Good luck.
 
I don’t see you can epoxy glass. If you’ve ever had a windshield crack you see how cracks run. And windshields are 2 pieces of glass laminated together and the cracked piece still runs.
 
if the cracked glass went all the way to one of the seams it could be the beginning of a much larger seam failure. It is going to be hard to see where exactly the leak is coming from. If loosening the bulkhead and retightening doesnt work it is most likely due to the crack itself and will then need the entire bottom panel replaced, or just replacing the whole tank.
It did crack all the way to one of the seems (the one right next to the hole i drilled) I thought I could get away with epoxy in the overflow but I think I found the problem.
I drained and dried the overflow, put pressure on the bulkhead/epoxy and water pushed out from under the epoxy. I’m shocked that it didn’t bond completely with the glass. Here is video:


So i believe water is slipping under the epoxy and under the bulkhead seal. Not good.

A possible solution without tearing things apart:
Make a new bottom for the overflow that will sit above damaged panel. Making another overflow box above the damaged one I have now.
I could cut acrylic to the size of the overflow box, drill holes for new bulkheads, run a short length pvc from the tops of the old bulkheads to the bottoms of the new ones, and silicone it in a few inches from the bottom 2FDA6C3B-0099-45E2-993F-4D63C546F293.jpeg
Something like that might work?
 
I don’t see you can epoxy glass. If you’ve ever had a windshield crack you see how cracks run. And windshields are 2 pieces of glass laminated together and the cracked piece still runs.
Well I definitely don’t recommend epoxy on glass now lol. Also True, the cracks do grow until they hit an edge. But mine already cracked to the edge. Im thinking I could save this tank still because the crack already found the edge and its in the overflow section. If I install a new overflow box, sitting just above my damaged bottom, I think ill be able to save the tank. Stay tuned, this might be so crazy it works lol
 
110F8BF6-5E5E-4E25-8173-748D63BB5C34.jpeg

This is what Im thinking now. Raise the bottom with a new piece of acrylic. Ill silicone it in on the glass sides and weld-on16 the acrylic overflow sides.
Thoughts?
 
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I havent done many acrylic to glass seals before but I have used silicone in the past for acrylic sump baffles. From what i found researching, silicone doesnt bond well to acrylic and overtime can cause leaks. It might be better to pull out the whole overflow and replace it with a glass overflow. Another way could be adding glass panes inside of the plastic overflow. Sealing the two panes together and to the sides and back of the tank, then using a glass piece with holes drilled like in your drawing.

Im gonna defer to others that have more experience with glass and acrylic tank building as it isn't my area of expertise.
 
I havent done many acrylic to glass seals before but I have used silicone in the past for acrylic sump baffles. From what i found researching, silicone doesnt bond well to acrylic and overtime can cause leaks. It might be better to pull out the whole overflow and replace it with a glass overflow. Another way could be adding glass panes inside of the plastic overflow. Sealing the two panes together and to the sides and back of the tank, then using a glass piece with holes drilled like in your drawing.

Im gonna defer to others that have more experience with glass and acrylic tank building as it isn't my area of expertise.
I appreciate your response! I agree that the bond for silicone to acrylic is not the best. I learned this when I had to remake the overflow box for tank next to this one lol. its always something right?
However If its glass to tight fitting acrylic, silicone seems to hold up well. (as we see in so many sump baffles including mine.)
Same thing with my overflow box, it’s water tight.
I do have some extra sheets of 1/16 glass, maybe a combo of both, like you suggested, would get the job done.
I would use weld-on for the acrylic-to-acrylic seams .
I think this is my only option to save the tank. Hoping to get some more opinions before proceeding.
 
It did crack all the way to one of the seems (the one right next to the hole i drilled)
I'm sorry, but that sounds like nightmare waiting to happen. Best advice, get the tank fixed correctly or get a new one.
 
It worked, no more leaks! BDF9D1EC-EF00-4304-BB21-4198B9FF4AE6.jpeg B014B335-3542-4A50-9286-4C2D5A9C4C7F.jpeg
Hope you cut that acrylic real sloppy.. about a 1/8” gap around it.. that plastic will swell after a couple days and put some serious pressure on your glass joints, I’ve seen it take out a 300gallon tank and popped the seam.
 
Hope you cut that acrylic real sloppy.. about a 1/8” gap around it.. that plastic will swell after a couple days and put some serious pressure on your glass joints, I’ve seen it take out a 300gallon tank and popped the seam.
It’s been a constant issue. I have a replacement panel of glass for the bottom and im going to reseal the whole thing.
 
Sort answer silicone does not bond well to acrylic. I like your idea, but would of used glass and silconed it inside the overflow box.
 
Sort answer silicone does not bond well to acrylic. I like your idea, but would of used glass and silconed it inside the overflow box.
 

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