Leaking Overflow Bulkhead, need help.

Dodgersfan · Feb 2, 2018

Hey Guys,

I just set up my tank last weekend with an Eshoppes L overflow plumbed for Bean Animal. I made a mistake when plumbing and didn't put a gate valve on the full siphon line (I let a random plumbing website convince me that running a gate valve partially closed for long periods would cause vibrations that lead to leaks, should've just listened to everyone else here who does it anyway) Anyway, I tried using reducing bushings in the intakes as a quick fix to avoid having to add the gate valve, but i can barely get my hands in the overflow box and i must've caused the center overflow bulkhead to shift and break the seal, because now I've got a slow leak from the center bulkhead (which is completely inaccessible) and I'm not sure how to fix it. I'm desperately trying to avoid having to drain down the tank, but I am going to stop by my LFS today and see what they would charge me to bring out a couple of Brute Cans and help me drain it down, move tank away from wall, tighten bulkhead & refill tank. any suggestions on what to do here? silicone the inside of the bulkhead in the overflow box? just try wiggling it till the leak stops? just bite the bullet and drain the tank?

No livestock yet, so i don't have to worry about that, but I'm not really happy about the concept of having to move 100 gallons of water out of the tank and back in...

Thanks.

ca1ore · Feb 2, 2018

Can you not just drain the tank down to just below the bulkheads that connect the two sides of the overflow, remove it, and reseat the offender? I have a similar situation, where my external box is quite difficult to access. Though it is generally frowned upon, I siliconed all three (actually 5 in my case) of the bulkheads into the bottom of the external box so that bumping them would be less likely to cause a leak. You could also 'weld' them with the thickened acrylic cement. I also sanded down the pipes slightly so that the elbows that fit into the bulkheads inside the box slip in and out easily.

Dodgersfan · Feb 2, 2018

ca1ore said:
Can you not just drain the tank down to just below the bulkheads that connect the two sides of the overflow, remove it, and reseat the offender? I have a similar situation, where my external box is quite difficult to access. Though it is generally frowned upon, I siliconed all three (actually 5 in my case) of the bulkheads into the bottom of the external box so that bumping them would be less likely to cause a leak. You could also 'weld' them with the thickened acrylic cement. I also sanded down the pipes slightly so that the elbows that fit into the bulkheads inside the box slip in and out easily.

No, its the bulkheads on the bottom of the overflow box and the tank is against a wall. I have to drain the tank down to get it light enough to move away from the wall.

Jackony · Feb 2, 2018

How did you place the gaskets on the over flow box? It’s very counter intuitive how they work.

ca1ore · Feb 2, 2018

If you drain the tank down partly, surely you can pull out the internal box and just lift up the external one? If not, then I would suggest that you would want to position the tank a bit further from the wall so that in the future you can service it if necessary. In my case, as example, I have enough clearance between the external box and wall that I can slip it off should the need arise just by removing the nuts on the through bulkheads.

Dodgersfan · Feb 2, 2018

Jackony said:
How did you place the gaskets on the over flow box? It’s very counter intuitive how they work.

This is the bottom bulkheads, not the ones through the glass. Gasket is on the wet side.

Dodgersfan · Feb 2, 2018

ca1ore said:
If you drain the tank down partly, surely you can pull out the internal box and just lift up the external one? If not, then I would suggest that you would want to position the tank a bit further from the wall so that in the future you can service it if necessary. In my case, as example, I have enough clearance between the external box and wall that I can slip it off should the need arise just by removing the nuts on the through bulkheads.

Can’t do that for 2 reasons, 1 there’s not enough slack in the pvc where it turns under the tank to go into the sump. 2nd the tank was crossbraced and the brace touches the weir, it was a biotch to get in Andy’s not leaking, and I am even more hesitant to touch that than to fully drain the tank...

red13 · Feb 2, 2018

I know its a pain, (been there a few times myself), but drain it and fix it right. Its not worth regretting it later. when the system is fully running. With help you might be able to drain it 1/2 way and move the tank far enough to do the work.

Jackony · Feb 2, 2018

Yep. One of my 3 leaked too (a drip every 5-10 sec) on a water test. I had only hand tightened, used a make shift wrench to get an extra 1/8” to 1/4” turn and the leaking stopped. I’m still worried for final set up, like you it will be very hard to access these after tank is in place. Also I looked on bottom of bulk head itself- the part that touches the gasket- there is a plastic line raised up from manufacturing flaw. I think when that setteled into the rubber gasket with enough tightness I achieved no leaks.

Hope this helps a little. Too bad I glued and there is really no way to improve gasket or bulkhead quality at this point without a plumbing redo. I live and learn.

Brad

Greybeard · Feb 2, 2018

Speaking from experience... Wiggling might make you think you've 'fixed' it... for a while, but it'll leak again. Silicone inside the bulkhead WILL LEAK. The _only_ acceptable solution to me is going to be to fix it right. If you've gotta drain the tank to access it, well, then you've gotta drain the tank. You might consider leaving a bit more room behind it when you fill it back up

Seriously, accessing that bulkhead, pulling it loose, cleaning out the joint (I lube my gaskets with a bit of spray silicone lube, by the way...) and re-sealing is your only real option. Anything else, and I'd be loosing sleep, worried about it.

It's a hobby. Draining and refilling the system is a hassle, but it's not expensive... just time consuming. What else is a hobby for, but consuming your free time (and emptying your wallet!). Relax, do it right, and move on.

TheEngineer · Feb 2, 2018

red13 said:
I know its a pain, (been there a few times myself), but drain it and fix it right. Its not worth regretting it later. when the system is fully running. With help you might be able to drain it 1/2 way and move the tank far enough to do the work.

+1 it is worth the effort to do it right. You may need to replace the seal for the bulkhead. If it got torqued and crushed a section that could be why it is leaking.

chamjack · Feb 2, 2018

My vote is drain it down and fix it right before you go any farther. How many years do you plan on having this tank up? I would not want to worry about it especially since it’s a brand new setup. Think how much harder it would be if it’s been up and stocked for a few years and starts to leak. Go get a few Rubbermaid totes to drain the water into. They are cheap. Make a few inch space from the wall so if it happens in the future you can get your hand in there to service it. Nothing worse than having a problem and no way to get at it to fix. Draining it down won’t be bad and then you can adjust stuff for potential problems that may come up in the future where you don’t have access now.

Dual40IM · Feb 2, 2018

I have always put a thin layer of silicone on both sides of the rubber gasket. The one time I did not, sure enough I had a leak. Pulled it apart, dried, applied silicone, let try for 24 hrs and refilled. No problems at all. On a side note, add more unions that way you can disassemble and repair in necessary. Good luck, hope all turns out well.

Dodgersfan · Feb 2, 2018

I appreciate the feedback everyone. I stopped in at my LFS today and the owner was able to put me in touch with a guy who does service that happens to live real close to me. He’s coming over Monday to help me drain the tank and bringing brutes. I’ll still probably invest in 1 of my own, but I would’ve needed 3 for this job, and with the wheels that’s like 200 bucks in trash cans... I ain’t spending that. Until Monday I’ll just be stuffing towels behind the tank to soak up the drips.

Saltlife · Feb 2, 2018

Drain around half in a bathtub or brute using your pump. Get some of those slick round things you put under furniture to move it. Tilt the tank forward very little and have someone slide the round thing under the tank. It will help slide the tank forward enough to do the same to the front. Go slow as you don't want the water to move around too much. You don't have to move it very much to get the pucks under there and it will move real easy even with water in it. I moved a 120 same way and worked great.

Saltlife · Feb 2, 2018

Also can you turn the bulkheads around so can reach the nut in the overflow and put the piece you unscrew somewhere on a straight piece of pvc? Then it would be easy to fix next time even if it's against the wall. Unscrew the bulkhead, separate the pic line, and pull the bulkhead straight down.

Dodgersfan · Feb 5, 2018

hmmm... my leak seems to have sorted itself out... is that a thing that can happen? I have been stuffing a towel back there all weekend, and last night I noticed it was pretty dry, so i left the towel out overnight last night, and this morning the floor was bone dry. I'm thinking of calling off the service guy I've got coming today. but i do have corals coming this weekend, so its going to get harder to drain down after this week, should I just go ahead and drain it anyway?