Leaking Sump

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Deezill

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hello and good morning to some pending your location. I noticed my acrylic sump made by Bashsea is leaking. I have only had it for 2 years and 1 month. The leak seems to be coming from a seam. Can I reseal this? I want to resolve the water leaking on my floor. Any input would be appreciated. Can I use silicone to bond acrylic?
 
Silicone won’t bond well to plastic.
Use this stuff. Have used it many times. The name is accurate

 
Now I need to find an ACe to see if they have it. Thanks.

You may want to read the chemical contents in the back, it may not be safe... I would suggest draining the sump, clean the area where it is leaking, Use acrylic solvent, like weld-on #4. then if you want to be extra safe, use the amazing goop for extra protection.

I have used weld-on #4, and it worked great. Depending on where the leak is, you may want to keep a bit of pressure on that spot after 30 seconds of applying the solvent. the solvent actually melts the plastic together, and with a bit of pressure, it will have a solid bond.
 
You may want to read the chemical contents in the back, it may not be safe... I would suggest draining the sump, clean the area where it is leaking, Use acrylic solvent, like weld-on #4. then if you want to be extra safe, use the amazing goop for extra protection.

I have used weld-on #4, and it worked great. Depending on where the leak is, you may want to keep a bit of pressure on that spot after 30 seconds of applying the solvent. the solvent actually melts the plastic together, and with a bit of pressure, it will have a solid bond.
That is my exact plan, to remove the heaters put them in the display temporarily and turn off the return. I am so glad I used unions. Clean out the sump which I only have some bio balls and mu skimmer. I think I should be able to run the display independent of the sump for a full 24 hours while the solvent cures.
 
I too Had a BASHSEA sump leak after leak testing, GOT my Money back from my dealer. Also one of the Baffles was NOT glued in, Bashsea seriously IMO Not what it was ,
 
That is my exact plan, to remove the heaters put them in the display temporarily and turn off the return. I am so glad I used unions. Clean out the sump which I only have some bio balls and mu skimmer. I think I should be able to run the display independent of the sump for a full 24 hours while the solvent cures.
you can run the system like that for a few days with no issues, just don't feed heavy. the glue manufacturers suggest 24-48 hours of dry to cure time.. please keep us up to date,,
 
I too Had a BASHSEA sump leak after leak testing, GOT my Money back from my dealer. Also one of the Baffles was NOT glued in, Bashsea seriously IMO Not what it was ,
Yeah I will never purchase from them again. My Trigger System sump lasted and still is lasting but its too small. Good thing I can put a heater in the display and run the tank independently for a few days. eventually, I will remove the bashsea and go with a different sump but for now, I will repair it.
 
you can run the system like that for a few days with no issues, just don't feed heavy. the glue manufacturers suggest 24-48 hours of dry to cure time.. please keep us up to date,,
I will keep you updated. I appreciate you guys caring because I woke up this morning not knowing what to do. This is what makes this community so great.
 
You may want to read the chemical contents in the back, it may not be safe... I would suggest draining the sump, clean the area where it is leaking, Use acrylic solvent, like weld-on #4. then if you want to be extra safe, use the amazing goop for extra protection.

I have used weld-on #4, and it worked great. Depending on where the leak is, you may want to keep a bit of pressure on that spot after 30 seconds of applying the solvent. the solvent actually melts the plastic together, and with a bit of pressure, it will have a solid bond.
Not sure of the chemical make up but have used it many times without issue.
It also lasts. Used it over 10 years ago on a tank and it’s still strong as ever
 

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