Leaking threaded pipe help

skr791346

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From a sch80 bulkhead, there seems to be a slow leak between bulkhead and thread to slip adapter. Could’ve sworn I put enough Teflon tape around it but doesn’t seem like it. :( Pic attached

It’s already at a hard to reach spot as the tank is pushed up against a wall

If I put plumber’s putty in between the seams, would that seal it? Or do I need to cut the pipe, unscrew adapter and re-Teflon?

1FA184C7-6D27-4B39-AB1E-98EE30D32C16.jpeg
 
Too much Teflon can cause a problem too... I’m always able to get leaks stopped with Teflon but I’ve seen others have success putting a little silicon on the threads and stopping them that way.
 
Teflon tape really shouldn’t be used with PVC threading as it can cause PVC to crack if over tightened. Also, Teflon tape isn’t a sealant. A type of pipe thread sealant compound should be used with PVC that is suitable for potable water.

This is what I use:
Rectorseal 23631 1/4 Pint Brush Top T Plus 2 Pipe Thread Sealant



I would personally take it apart and do it correctly so I could sleep at night. I’m confused though, why do you have to cut the pipe if it’s connected to the union via a threaded adapter and not just unscrew it?

Silicon shouldn’t be applied when wet and the chemical evaporates off during the curing process is not reef safe.

More info about Teflon tape and pipe sealant: https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/what-thread-sealant-use-pvc-fittings-larry-workman
 
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Evening

They are correct about sealant. I keep the site as a good reference on pvc connections



Teflon tape, Teflon paste and pipe dope is intended for metal pipe and fittings. Metal to metal fitting joints are more difficult to tighten than plastic; the surfaces tend to gall without the aid of such lubricants as Teflon or pipe dope. Plastic fittings do not need this lubrication.

When Teflon tape is wrapped around plastic male threads it adds to the strain and tensile stress. The tendency of most installers is to incorrectly wrap several thickness of tape around the male threads, increasing stain and stress further.

Teflon paste and pipe dope, just like Teflon tape, make threaded joints slippery. Their use on PVC fittings can be an invitation to over-torque.

When working with threaded plastic fittings do use a proper sealant. The right sealant for threaded joints is non-hardening, compatible with plastic and doesn't add slipperiness.
 
Thank you everyone. Lesson learned, I’ll use thread sealant in the future for threaded fittings.

I only have one union valve before returns split into two hence why I have no choice but to cut it. Tank has no life in it yet so not concerned about silicone. It does have water and rock in it however. :(

Can thread sealant be used when wet and could it stop the leak if rubbed around the seam? Would like to avoid cutting the pipe if possible.
 
Thank you everyone. Lesson learned, I’ll use thread sealant in the future for threaded fittings.

I only have one union valve before returns split into two hence why I have no choice but to cut it. Tank has no life in it yet so not concerned about silicone. It does have water and rock in it however. :(

Can thread sealant be used when wet and could it stop the leak if rubbed around the seam? Would like to avoid cutting the pipe if possible.

thread sealant does not dry or harden and is used to fill the gaps in the threading. It will not have any effect on the leak if around the seam.
 
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Thank you everyone. Lesson learned, I’ll use thread sealant in the future for threaded fittings.

I only have one union valve before returns split into two hence why I have no choice but to cut it. Tank has no life in it yet so not concerned about silicone. It does have water and rock in it however. :(

Can thread sealant be used when wet and could it stop the leak if rubbed around the seam? Would like to avoid cutting the pipe if possible.
Cut and seal properly, add a union if possible. 30+ years advice.
 
@RandyC is correct. The thread sealant will not work externally. Neither will silicone, and it's a bad idea to use it in place of thread sealant.

If you cut the pipe an inch or so under the male adapter, it's a super easy job.

1. Cut pipe.
2. Unscrew threaded male union from bulk head
3. Remove Teflon tape
4. Apply thread sealant to inside of bulkhead
5. Apply thread sealant to male adapter threads
6. Screw adapter back into bulkhead
7. Wipe excess sealant off with paper towel
8. Use slip x slip coupler to reconnect the two pipes where you cut.
9. All done.
 
Thanks again, will cut the pipe and do it right.

Trying to do it tonight but I seem to be out of sch80 unions. Is it ok to use sch40 unions with sch80 pipe? Otherwise I'll have to wait until Thursday for parts from McMaster.
 
Thanks again, will cut the pipe and do it right.

Trying to do it tonight but I seem to be out of sch80 unions. Is it ok to use sch40 unions with sch80 pipe? Otherwise I'll have to wait until Thursday for parts from McMaster.

Totally fine, with the pressures you will be using it for. My OCD wouldn't allow it, but it won't be a problem. :)
 
FWIW, in the future use solvent weld bulkheads. Much less problematic and no futzing with tape, paste or silicone (which is an excellent thread sealant if you’ve the patience to let it cure).
 
FWIW, in the future use solvent weld bulkheads. Much less problematic and no futzing with tape, paste or silicone (which is an excellent thread sealant if you’ve the patience to let it cure).
Wow I'm urprised by your choice in this. I would never use a welded bulkhead. How on earth do you get it apart if the need arises? You would have to drain the overflow, cut a pipe, then undo the bulkhead. If it was a threaded bulkhead all you have to do is unthread the pipe. Pipe thread sealant as has been posted is all I've ever used and have never had a leak on a threaded fitting.
 
FWIW, in the future use solvent weld bulkheads. Much less problematic and no futzing with tape, paste or silicone (which is an excellent thread sealant if you’ve the patience to let it cure).

Why would you use or recommend silicone for sealant? It's harder to work with, acts as a lubricant for the threads, has a relatively long cure time, is open to potentially hazardous effects on the display if the right tube isn't picked up at your local store. If any of these reasons aren't good enough, you have a cheap, readily available product made specifically for this. Use the right tool for the job, and only do it once.
 
Local hardware store only has Real-Tuff thread sealant. Anyone know if it’s reef safe?

  • Certified to ANSI/NSF Standard 61, safe for drinking water lines
 

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