Leaky Cepex True Union Ball Valves - Can They Be Repaired?

[Tim P]

So I have 3 leaky true union ball valves from BRS. They've been in operation on a manifold for 18 months. I broke down the manifold itself (thank you unions), cleaned everything, (however I didn't soak any parts in vinegar) and then carefully hand tightened everything. Still leaking. From what I can tell they are leaking from the stem area just above and below the union nuts. (definitely not the stem itself) They do not leak at all when the ball valve is in the closed position. I also have 2 other ball valves that aren't leaking at all.

Do I need to replace the O Rings? They looked fine to the eye. Or is there another issue? Perhaps too much head pressure? Quick help would be appreciated.

 

[ca1ore]

When you say you cleaned them, did you disassemble the valve section? That generally unwise. You sure the o rings haven’t fallen out? I’ve had cepex valves for years without a single leak.

 

[Tim P]

When you say you cleaned them, did you disassemble the valve section? That generally unwise. You sure the o rings haven’t fallen out? I’ve had cepex valves for years without a single leak.

The amount of salt creep on the ball valve itself and the vinyl tubing below suggesting theres been a leak for some time forced me to go ahead and clean them. Not sure what you mean by valve section? I unscrewed the the 2 union nuts and cleaned the surface of the rubber gaskets and the interior of the tube with a soft wire brush I could stick inside. The actual stem was not disassembled
And yes, rhe orings have been verified to still be there.

 

[alton]

Just replace it. That is the best part just swap it out with ease. The only time I had one leak was when I moved the pump and lost a seal.

 

[Tim P]

Just replace it. That is the best part just swap it out with ease. The only time I had one leak was when I moved the pump and lost a seal.

Not so easily replaced. They were cemented into a manifold and the connecting pvc was cut very short for a tight space.. I guess I could replace the stem portion with ease wondering if that would do it. Or even just try the o rings first.
But to replace the entire valve would mean to construct a new manifold which I am trying to avoid.

 

[dieselkeeper]

I had the same problem. They don't leak open or closed completely. If I adjust them for flow (feeding my refugium) they leak from the stem. I replaced all the o rings and they still leak. I'm replacing them with gate valves. They seem to have problems also. They get hard to turn as I think crud builds up inside.

 

[Tim P]

I had the same problem. They don't leak open or closed completely. If I adjust them for flow (feeding my refugium) they leak from the stem. I replaced all the o rings and they still leak. I'm replacing them with gate valves. They seem to have problems also. They get hard to turn as I think crud builds up inside.

Didn't make that connection but the 1 valve that isnt leaking is fully open for my chiller. Interesting. I need the ability to adjust for reactors. That would be a blow

 

[dieselkeeper]

I plan on getting a different brand other then Cepex. US Plastics has dozens of different brands. $25 x 4 is $100 for me. Waste of money.

True Union Ball Valves Category | True Union Ball Valves | Asahi®, Hayward® & GF | U.S. Plastic Corp.

U.S. Plastic Corp.® has a great selection of true union ball valves from many brands including George-Fischer, Asahi®, Hayward®, Nibco®, and many more.

www.usplastic.com

 

[ca1ore]

The amount of salt creep on the ball valve itself and the vinyl tubing below suggesting theres been a leak for some time forced me to go ahead and clean them. Not sure what you mean by valve section? I unscrewed the the 2 union nuts and cleaned the surface of the rubber gaskets and the interior of the tube with a soft wire brush I could stick inside. The actual stem was not disassembled
And yes, rhe orings have been verified to still be there.

It is possible to take the valve body (I guess what you are calling the stem) apart. It is odd though. I’ve had problems with cheap ball valves like the red flag brand, but never with the more expensive cepex or Spears brands. I’ve a few george fisher valves that are almost 25 years old. Can you show a picture of the valve. Are you observing the correct flow direction?

 

[Tim P]

I plan on getting a different brand other then Cepex. US Plastics has dozens of different brands. $25 x 4 is $100 for me. Waste of money.

True Union Ball Valves Category | True Union Ball Valves | Asahi®, Hayward® & GF | U.S. Plastic Corp.

U.S. Plastic Corp.® has a great selection of true union ball valves from many brands including George-Fischer, Asahi®, Hayward®, Nibco®, and many more.

www.usplastic.com

I really wonder now if the Cepex version I have currently just can't handle the combination of pressure exerted from the pump I am using and valve adjustment. And then whats the point of BRS selling these for aquarium applications if I can't adjust them? Either closed or open is my only option? Ugh. Looking like a total rebuild is in the cards...

 

[Nhltc99]

I really wonder now if the Cepex version I have currently just can't handle the combination of pressure exerted from the pump I am using and valve adjustment. And then whats the point of BRS selling these for aquarium applications if I can't adjust them? Either closed or open is my only option? Ugh. Looking like a total rebuild is in the cards...

For fine tuning flow for a manifold you are better off with gate valves. They are made to adjust flow, where ball valves are made to turn flow on/off. But, gate valves are generally more expensive due to this. If you are looking to replace the valves, I would make the change over to gate valves.

 

[madweazl]

The Cepex valves I run off the return manifold will leak on occasion (typically it's after my UV sterilizer's flow has been adjust after about six months at the same setting). I ordered the seals from BRS last week and set out to rebuild it this morning. It took a bit to figure out how the cartridge came apart but this video showed the way. To take the handle off the valve, you pop the little black cap off the top (a dental pick works great) and remove the Philips head screw. The union shipped with the key to remove the cartridge in the box so hang on to that. The threads on the union are reverse. Everything else was pretty easy to figure out.