LED Advice for SPS

gvontz · Mar 4, 2015

I replaced my metal halide and T5 lighting about 6 months ago and made the move to LED lighting. The cost savings in electricity, bulb replacement and running a chiller all seem like great advantages. That said I am struggling to know how to optimize my LED lighting for good SPS growth and coloration. I have a 150 g DT and run 3 Radion Gen 3 LED systems. I currently run the LEDs at 19K with a 9 hour photo period that peaks at 80% intensity (bell shaped intensity curve over the 9 hours). I did go with the Radion wide angle lens because my LEDs are mounted in my canopy and only about 10" off the water surface. So I need the wider angle lens to spread the light due to the close proximity of the LED units to the water surface. I am measuring about 200 PAR at the level of the SPS. So far they look OK with decent color and modest growth. Understanding that PAR measurements aren't perfect for LEDs, still wondering if anyone has any advice for what to target with LED lighting for optimal SPS conditions. I have heard that I should crank up the LEDs to 100% intensity since their PAR output at 100% will still not rival a 400W MH. FYI - I run 2 MP 40s for flow and Triton Method for water quality. Any LED lighting advice welcome.

Thanks!

Greg

shornik · Mar 4, 2015

I'm not able to give much advice because I'm still trying to dial my Radion's in for my SPS - that are predominately brown :sad: but after ramping up my intensity over many weeks I'm at 95% and definitely see them coloring up a little - I guess patience will once again (hopefully) pay off. I only have a 60g and 1 Radion Gen 3. I don't use any lens other than what came out of the box and I hung mine from the ceiling so I'm able to adjust up and down, they are about 12" from the water line now and around 15-16" from my SPS. I have my tank set up using AquaticLog, Steven's Reef and if you go there I think you should be able to see my setting and also other peoples settings by clicking on the EcoTech link. If you want I can also send you my settings just send me a PM.

But mostly I hope others will chime in.

tat2z_21 · Mar 4, 2015

I am no professional, but I will say that PAR for LED's is a little over talked and not fully understood. Being that all LEDs peak @ 460nm, we are blasting the coral with a lot of the spectral lighting that the algae in the corals tissue use. Though PAR may only be @ 200 your PUR may be through the roof, which will cause your corals algae to over produce and oxidize from inside. Normally you would see the corals brown up first slowly when you would change out your metal halides and not adjust slowly, but not so with LEDs. Photosynthetic invertebrates respond best to light that falls into wavelengths between 400-550 nm and 620-740 nm which is the PUR range. A PAR reading of 300 and higher isn’t as good as it appears if this reading is derived from wavelengths produced throughout the entire PAR spectral range (400-700 nm) as much of this energy is not needed by photosynthetic animals and is wasted energy. So understanding what light you LED system is putting out is important.

gvontz · Mar 4, 2015

Thanks for the feedback. For those that are heavy on the technical side of lighting how can a PAR meter over read PUR? Seems if the PAR meter measures all light in the 400-700nm range and PUR is a subset 400-550 + 620-740 nm that its only the 701-740 nm wavelength of the PUR spectrum that's not being recorded by the PAR meter. So confused as to how a low PAR reading could be have a PUR level that is significantly higher. I have heard that PAR readings are typically 10% under reported when reading LED outputs.

I guess most important of all is how is the reef hobbyist supposed to know how to set LED lights - trial and error? One nice thing about MHs and T5s is that you just plug them in and have no further choices. LEDs seem great but have so many options and variables that its hard to know what are "best practices" as a starting point. When I purchase a SPS frag on line I often see the additional information that the frag was kept under 400W MH at 20K at 24". How does one translate that to a LED set up?

cginter · Mar 4, 2015

I've wonder the same thing as I have dials for some of my LEDs. I've always had them dialed in to how the tank looks not knowing what the par readings are. Some corals look and grow awesome, some have been brown/greenish, still growing just not a lot of color

60squared · Mar 5, 2015

I run mine at 100 percent for 12 hours on the radiant color program with whites at 45 reds and greens at only 5 percen all blues at 100 percent unless you have underlying water condition issues this program has worked awesome for me and will not bleach your corals. I have rbta high dollar maxima clams sps LPS and zoas all thriving in my tank also running a reef Brite xho at 100 percent for 8 hours

hummer · Mar 5, 2015

set up

yes I am also have two radion gen3 pros wide angle lens and I also wondered how they set up compared to metal halide I like my right on I have to over my 120 and they do a great job and I'm only at 60% my lighting is at 12 K and I also wonder how I should be setting these up for my corall not for me
this LFS I go to there lighting they use also had radon gen 2 pro lighting and they said there at 20 K ..but that's for eye candy showpieces not for growing in my opinion

hummer · Mar 5, 2015

set up

yes I am also have right on free and I also wondered how they set up compared to metal halide I like my right on I have to over my 120 and they do a great job and I'm only at 60% my lighting is at 12 K and I also wonder how I should be setting these up for my corall not for me

spspirate · Mar 5, 2015

Welcome to REEF2REEF!!

60squared · Mar 5, 2015

12k is not advisable if you ask me way too much red read what advanced aquarist recently published about red leds

gvontz · Mar 6, 2015

Very helpful to know and consistent with what my local aquarium shop told me - they said you can run the Radion's at 100% and not have an issue.

I have a similar mix in my reef tank and do think its doing better at the higher intensity. Will use the acclimation feature and work towards 100% intensity.

Dextereef · Mar 6, 2015

gvontz said:
Thanks for the feedback. For those that are heavy on the technical side of lighting how can a PAR meter over read PUR? Seems if the PAR meter measures all light in the 400-700nm range and PUR is a subset 400-550 + 620-740 nm that its only the 701-740 nm wavelength of the PUR spectrum that's not being recorded by the PAR meter. So confused as to how a low PAR reading could be have a PUR level that is significantly higher. I have heard that PAR readings are typically 10% under reported when reading LED outputs.

So if they under report, if I get a par reading of 200 it is really 220?