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it's how concentrated the light is.. the tighter the cone (60 is tighter than 90, 120 is no optics) the more par you'll get out of your LEDs, but the smaller area they will cover and the higher liklihood you'll get spotlighting.. most people are fine with 90* optics unless they have really deep tanks or are planning to hang the fixture extra high.. your best spread and color blend will be with 120's but you'll lose quite a bit of par..
Choosing the right optic
Would I need to have a fixture or fixtures that take up the entire length of six feet on my tank for a good coverage with LEDs?
Ive had my arctic so26s a week now and love them. I will need a new heater though because getting rid of the halides I have no heat in the top of the tank( a good thing). I am seeing colors that were not visible with halides. Its awesome thanks for recommending them. I actually bumped the blues up to 50% today...Thats right im a rebel.Three OceanRevive Artic S026 fixtures (you'll like them better than the D120 Chinese 'brick fixture' look) or 2 OR-IT2080's which would be 25% more leds, better PAR, moonlights and controllers (if you want to spend the extra for controllers). I've had 2 OR-IT2080's over my 6' 180g DT for 11 months now, running 24/7 without a single issue.

